2006 Cruiser gas tank removal / hold down epoxying

F

ferret30

New member
Hey guys, we've been using the boat a ton lately, and now that I've got both tanks near empty, I wanted to take on the gas tank hold down straps. I can see that mine are screwed into the floor (core) and want to do the undercut/epoxy procedure.

On my 2006, I have the permanent flat cockpit floor. Between the cockpit and the gas tanks there are 2 'curtain' fiberglass panels with oval cutouts for fuel level inspection. These curtains (2 symmetrical pieces) are connected to the motor well overhang with machine screws/nuts. The outside edges and bottoms are caulked in with some white and/or clear sealant.

I need to take out these curtains to get at the tanks. Any tips on getting them out, and suggestions for a sealant/ to use when I'm done? I was considering putting them back without sealant, or at least less sealant.

Also, where the flat floor meets the cabin bulkhead there is similar sealant. What is under the flat cockpit floor? Is it hollow and then underneath there's the hull shaped fiberglass/balsa/fiberglass sandwich?
 
Bumping this thread, all I need to know is what to use to reseal the gas tank 'curtain' panels to the floor and hull sides. 3M 4000? Life Seal? Is this sealant necessary here, or does it just help prevent vibration?

Thanks in advance...
 
The sealant isn't necessary. The panels on my former 22 were installed with no sealant and didn't rattle. I'd say give it a try without the sealant and if you notice rattling use a little 4200.
 
Great, thanks Roger. With no sealant it will be way easier to clean gunk around the gas tanks, inspect hoses, find parts that fell through the hole in the back of the starboard lazarette, etc.
 
Just a note to say good idea on doing the project. I'm halfway through a similar one on my 2002 22' Cruiser. Even though my boat had been stored in a rack building (so under a roof), and used very little (~50 hours on the engine), there was still some moisture in the core immediately adjacent to the screws that held the forward cleats in place (you may have the non-screwed cleats on a 2006). Luckily, it was a small enough amount that I was able to just overdrill slightly, ream from there, and get back to clean, dry core without too much trouble. I would encourage anyone with the screw-attached cleats to check this out, given the "a stitch in time saves nine" nature of core problems. The athwartship cleats on mine were the ones that had allowed moisture in - which makes sense as they are positioned where they can "dam" moisture moving aft in the cockpit.

On my boat the forward end of the hold down straps was attached to the forward cleat via a section of angle (so not directly screwed into the boat), and then the after end went through a footman loop that was screwed to the cockpit "bottom" (i.e. the inside of the boat hull) right ahead of the turn to the transom. I removed those screws and overdrilled them only very slightly - because I figured there was a good chance there was no core there - and indeed, there was no core. Just some bright blue filler of some sort in the resin. I still filled them with thickened epoxy as I don't plan to re-attach anything via screws into the hull.

That's the stage I'm at now: The old holes are all filled and I have new tanks on hand (23-gallon Moeller tanks which are what C-Dory uses now). I also have two of the fiberglass panels you describe (originally my vintage boat had two starboard panels that stopped shy of the underside of the splashwell lip). Next up is deciding how I'm going to "attach" the fuel tanks, and then installing them along with new hoses and then the panels. I was thinking I might work something out using pre-formed fiberglass angle epoxied to the hull - maybe it could form a cleat for the tank, a place to anchor a strap (if I decide to use a strap vs. something else - not sure yet), and a place to tack the bottom of the cover panel. Still mulling it all over currently.
 
Hello,

I also have a 2006. My fuel tank covers are removable with screws on the
bottom and #8 machine screws with ny-loc nuts in the top. The fuel tanks
are strapped down with nylon webbing straps and the fiberglass covers
mount at the bottom with sheet metal screws into 1 x 1 x 1/8 aluminum angle.
I would not use 5200 adhesive to attach the covers because they will be
difficult to remove if you need to unless you like to scrape 5200 off of everything.
(not fun)
I have added pictures to my album to show you how my tanks and covers were
mounted from the factory. Hopefully this will help.

Mike
 
Hi Mike,

I believe your boat and mine were made by different factories in the same year. My tank covers are only screwed to the motor well lip. The sides and bottoms are held in with some sealant and/or adhesive.

I will probably do what Roger suggested and leave the panels floating, unless they tend to rattle. And you're right, I wouldn't use 5200 in this case.
 
I think I'm too late to edit it, but as I re-read the thread just now, I realized how "off topic" my previous reply was, when you had specified that what you really wanted to know was (just) how to attach the cover panels. I guess I just had the project in mind since I'm in the middle of it, and figured others who were contemplating it might also be reading the thread, so I kind of "expanded." Still, it's your specific thread, and I probably should have started a different one; sorry about the hijackiness of it :oops:

Sunbeam
 
Sunbeam, no worries. I've hijacked even my own thread before. Like right now when I'll mention that I'm finally installing a stereo on the boat.

I think I'll post a thread on that since it's been pretty fun, and I've got a pretty perfect setup (in my opinion).

So anyway, I'll come back to the info you posted after I get the ball rolling on this project! I'm sure it will help.
 
ferret30":35tk9b85 said:
Sunbeam, no worries. I've hijacked even my own thread before.
Click to expand...
:mrgreen: Ha, that's funny. Also, glad it's all okay.

ferret30":35tk9b85 said:
Like right now when I'll mention that I'm finally installing a stereo on the boat. I think I'll post a thread on that ...
Click to expand...

I look forward to reading that. I'm currently re-thinking/re-working my battery and charging setup, and a couple of your previous write-ups (with illustrations/photos) have been very useful in the process. Thanks :thup

Sunbeam
 
Interesting how several boats of the same year are different. Ours (2006) has strips glassed to the floor aft to allow the hold down straps to be screwed into, so they are not into the floor.

We have screws on the bottom and bolts with nuts on the top--it appears to have no sealant, but I'll check when we are back to the boat. (in Yosemite currently).

The floor boards just rest on the bottom of the boat, from what I can see appears to be constructed the same as earlier C Dories without the factory floorboards. The potential "space" is minimal--at the outside the fiberglass on our boat is ground to almost a knife edge, and there is about 1 1/2" depth in the center.

If I was using a sealant, I would use Boat life, life caulk. It will remove fairly easily. What is there can just be cut with an X-acto knife, or other sharp blade.
 
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