2003 25 ft cdory how to pump out holding tank?
- Thread starter Tuna Ron
- Start date
Captains Cat
New member
There should be a chrome fitting along one edge (gunnel) of the boat labeled "WASTE". Go to a marina or place with a pumpout station, hook the suction hose up to it and pump away.
If your boat has a Y valve somewhere and an overboard macerator pump AND you are in waters that allow pumping out sewage (very few areas), you can select the overboard instead of the deck edge fitting and pump it overboard. Or, as the following link shows, you can do it on shore too. Be careful, it can get messy!
Here is a LINK
to a relevant thread.
Charlie
If your boat has a Y valve somewhere and an overboard macerator pump AND you are in waters that allow pumping out sewage (very few areas), you can select the overboard instead of the deck edge fitting and pump it overboard. Or, as the following link shows, you can do it on shore too. Be careful, it can get messy!
Here is a LINK
to a relevant thread.
Charlie
Hi Ron,
The pump out fitting should be at the very aft end of the deck, on the port side, just before the transom. There is a 1 1/2" hose which does directly to the bottom of the tank. You need an adaptor which fits between the screw in threads on the top of this suction fitting, and clamps over the pump out hose: You have to buy this fitting. Pump outs are usually run by an electric pump, but there are some stations where there is a large diaphragm pump which you might manually have to operate.
After sucking out the content of the tank, I usually run a number of gallons of water thru the head, and into the holding tank, with the pump shut off. This tends to rinse out the tank.
In the above, the valve may be close to the pump out, pump. The black part hanging down, is what screws into your pump out deck fitting, and the silver cam latches on the side of the gray tube, are what secure the pump out fitting to your deck fitting.
As for stress cracks. They need to be "v" cut with a Dremel tool--there is a nice "V" bit, or a small round carbide bit works well. The Dremel 1/8" shank tool is very handy for work around the boat.
You need to get matching gel coat. You can buy clear and add white or white gel coat or pasted a small amount of yellow and tan pigment to match the C Dory off white.
Or you can contact Spectrum Color at
http://www.spectrumcolor.com/Items.aspx?code=K&key=cat
And order the patch kit for the C Dory off white #00-10.
You do have to occlude air from the surface of the patched area--and this can be done with waxed gel coat, putting a film, such as Mylar, over the catalyzed gel coat, or spraying it with PVA--a mold release wax. After this you sand the repair smooth, with wet and dry--I usually start with 300, go to 600, 1000, and 1200 to 1500 and finally with a rubbing compound.
The pump out fitting should be at the very aft end of the deck, on the port side, just before the transom. There is a 1 1/2" hose which does directly to the bottom of the tank. You need an adaptor which fits between the screw in threads on the top of this suction fitting, and clamps over the pump out hose: You have to buy this fitting. Pump outs are usually run by an electric pump, but there are some stations where there is a large diaphragm pump which you might manually have to operate.
After sucking out the content of the tank, I usually run a number of gallons of water thru the head, and into the holding tank, with the pump shut off. This tends to rinse out the tank.
In the above, the valve may be close to the pump out, pump. The black part hanging down, is what screws into your pump out deck fitting, and the silver cam latches on the side of the gray tube, are what secure the pump out fitting to your deck fitting.
As for stress cracks. They need to be "v" cut with a Dremel tool--there is a nice "V" bit, or a small round carbide bit works well. The Dremel 1/8" shank tool is very handy for work around the boat.
You need to get matching gel coat. You can buy clear and add white or white gel coat or pasted a small amount of yellow and tan pigment to match the C Dory off white.
Or you can contact Spectrum Color at
http://www.spectrumcolor.com/Items.aspx?code=K&key=cat
And order the patch kit for the C Dory off white #00-10.
You do have to occlude air from the surface of the patched area--and this can be done with waxed gel coat, putting a film, such as Mylar, over the catalyzed gel coat, or spraying it with PVA--a mold release wax. After this you sand the repair smooth, with wet and dry--I usually start with 300, go to 600, 1000, and 1200 to 1500 and finally with a rubbing compound.
On the cracks: As Thataway says, they need to be enlarged before repairing them - you can't just "paint over them" with paint or gelcoat or they will just telegraph back through again. As a further step (depending on what they look like), I like to try to figure out why they are there, in case something "baseline" needs to be addressed. For an example from either end of the spectrum:
1) You drop something heavy on deck, it hits the gelcoat and makes a "star" pattern of hairline cracks in the gelcoat radiating out from the contact point. The cause is obvious, and they just need to be repaired.
2) There is a series of hairline cracks emanating from the point where a transom meets a topsides. I would want to know more about this because it could possibly indicate some structural weakness or movement in the connection of two important pieces of the boat.
There is a whole range of possibilities between those two, of course. And there are many "just cosmetic" gelcoat cracks that fall into or near category #1. But I like to try to figure out how close any given crack is to either end of the spectrum before I fix it, in case it is a symptom of something else going on.
Sunbeam
1) You drop something heavy on deck, it hits the gelcoat and makes a "star" pattern of hairline cracks in the gelcoat radiating out from the contact point. The cause is obvious, and they just need to be repaired.
2) There is a series of hairline cracks emanating from the point where a transom meets a topsides. I would want to know more about this because it could possibly indicate some structural weakness or movement in the connection of two important pieces of the boat.
There is a whole range of possibilities between those two, of course. And there are many "just cosmetic" gelcoat cracks that fall into or near category #1. But I like to try to figure out how close any given crack is to either end of the spectrum before I fix it, in case it is a symptom of something else going on.
Sunbeam