1984 22-Foot Classic V-berth Tank

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I've been reviewing the situation below the V-berth on my older boat and have found old gas at the hull around the aluminum tank that has wicked up into the flotation foam. My initial thought - before a detailed inspection - is that one or more of the filler, vent, or supply hoses are hosed and leaking. I've pumped quite a bit of old (12 years?) gas out of the tank and would like to clean it.

(8/22 - Fuel line was cracked and leaking)

Having removed the foam around the tank I find that it seems to be glued/epoxied/glassed to the hull in addition to the mounting screws and bolts. Has anyone else removed their Classic tank? I'd like to know what I'm getting into before I end up delaminating the inside of the hull. It may be that the best course is to leave the tank in place and simply rinse and pump it until I'm satisfied it's clean. But, I do have a hankering to know how it was installed and what it would take to remove it.

Thanks,

Tom
 
Tom, if you are saying that there is a fuel tank in the void below the V-berth this is not a factory install. Someone must have installed this tank at a later date. Not sure that having fuel under the V-berth is such a great idea. The tanks that came with the boat were portable metal tanks that went under the transom. I would think you would want to get it out. You might want to take some pictures so we could get a better idea of what your dealing with.

Fred
 
The tank is glued to the hull with some kind of adhesive or maybe fiberglass resin. The flotation foam was added after the tank was installed. The framing for the V-berth relies on the tank for structure. I could be wrong, but it looks like an original bit of work to me unless the installer had removed all of the original foam and added new; but it doesn't look that way to me.

Working on figuring out how to post pics from my computer. It appears that they need to be posted somewhere on the Internet first and have a URL. I'll post when I know how.

Tom
 
I may be mistaken, but I don't think there was originally any flotation foam up there, and am pretty certain that the tank is not original.

I set up a photo album for you so you can share some pics. You'll see the link to it in the profile info to the left of your posts.
 
Here's the pics... ...I hope.

Tom

Tank_From_Above.thumb.jpg


Tank_From_Cabin.thumb.jpg
 
Hey, fellow old guy. How did you adjust the size on the photos?

The larger size is more what I had in mind, Thanks.

Tom
 
therrick-

If removing the tank becomes more trouble than it's reasonably worth, you might consider just pumping it dry, airing it out, and refilling it with foam instead of gas.

You'd have to 1) fill it with water for safety, then 2) cut a couple of holes in it, 3) drain the water, 4) air it out for a few days (or weeks), then 5) foam it in with two part foam.

The reason for two holes is, first, for full air input and exit for ventilation, then, second, to have two openings for the extra foam to escape as it expands as a safety factor, because the foam can distort or even break apart a closed space if it doesn't have an outlet.

Then you could foam in the rest of the bow tank, and seal it up for a reasonable amount of positive flotation, or simply use the space left as storage.

**********************************************************

On the other hand, if you rerally want to take it out, you need to fill it with a non- oxygen containing substance, like Halon, or better yet, a fire-smothering foam (DaveS can advise you on this), then cut it out with a pneumatic cut off tool (die grinder with cut-off disk and protective shround).

This will, however still leave the bottom intact. Basicaly, if it's really glassed in tight, it would be pretty hard to grind it down and out of the hull. The tank bottom might be better left alone from a structural point of view.


It all depends on how much you like "brain surgery" on a C-Dory! (Brain surgery down at the bottom of a hole, no less!

P.S.: Looking at your photos, you're not skittish on full-blown disassembly and renovation projects, and are ready for anything!

Good Luck and keep us posted!

Joe.
 
The only reason I was planning on removing it was to make it easier to clean for reuse as an auxiliary fuel tank. I plan on installing a larger tank under the engine well. The tank appears in good shape although I'll check for leaks with a dye. All the rubber hoses to and from the tank will be replaced.

I am planning on doing a modified Redfox-style storage refit under the berth. A water tank or encased bladder ahead of the fuel to keep it centered on the boat. Two long shallow lockers on either side of the fuel tank. And two large deep lockers on either side of the porta-potty.

Tom
 
therrick-

Sounds like a major retrofit!

From reading your first post, I thought you wanted it permanently removed.

You might try simulating the total weight forward before you add all the modifications to see if the boat balance and performance are ok with the added weight.

Good Luck,

Joe.
 
I certainly agree with the temporary trying weight in this part of the boat before permently putting in other tanks--or even using this one. One of the beauties of the 22 C Dory is that they are light weight. Putting several hundred pounds of fluids up foreward will affect the trim, and perhaps handling under some conditions (concern would be mostly down wave type of situation).

Although many manufactures foam in tanks, it is generally accepted that this is not a good way to do it. Water is trapped in the foam, and the tank corrodes on the bottom. The proper way to put in an aluminum tank: first clean and etch or prime it. Use two part epoxy stronchium chromate. The floor that the tank will rest on should be epoxy coated/sealed plywood. glue 2" wide strips of plastic to the bottom of the tank with 5200 and then glue these to the bed with more 5200. This seals the bottom of the tank, and allows any water which gets around the tank to drain. On the other hand, I believe that many of the 22's were built with this entire area foamed in--and there should be no water there (unless a leak, or from the anchor locker). Having closed cell foam as floatation is certainly a good safety feature. I was never tempted to try and open up the area under the V bunk--there was adequate storage (especially weight wise) elsewhere.
 
Tom,
From your images your boat looks to be a dead ringer for mine (which is also an 84 Classic), except for this tank business. The installation looks nicely done, but I don't think it's a factory job. I've never cut into the area below my berths but from knocking around both inside and out, and other discussions over the years, they were originally just a sealed void space.

Good luck on whatever path you follow!

Mike
 
Hi

84 was the first year we built the C-Dory (most under the Hunky dory name) We did install 5 in bow tanks on hulls that were fitted with 90 hp Suzuki motors and removable fish holds under the motor well.

Mark President C-Dory Inc
 
Nice to know it's possible I wasn't too off base about the possibility of the tank being original. I just couldn't imagine an aftermarket mechanic spraying foam into the entire area after installing a tank. The foam was definitely all placed at the same time and after the tank was installed.

I've contacted the factory to see if they have records on how the boats were outfitted as they went out the door, but it may be a while. Apparently, the Toland-era records are in a back room with little labeling. Now, that could be an interesting project for someone in the area with lots of time on their hands...

On another site, some concern was expressed about the amount of weight forward with a full 22-gallon tank (about 143lbs.) and a 20-gallon water tank (about 167lbs.). I'm also considering, however, adding a single 36-gallon aluminum tank below the engine splash well (about 220lbs.) I believe my boat, as it was before stripping it, was fairly heavy in the rear. When planing, the bow was way up there, even with the engine and hydrofoil adjusted down to the max. The fuel and portable tanks stored under the engine splash well weighed about 80 pounds. After removing the portable tanks, the new contingent of tanks will have the effect of adding about 170lbs to the V-berth. I'm hoping that this weight differential will help to bring the bow down to an acceptable level while planing.

So far, my spreadsheet shows that with two other adults (American-sized) and about 200lbs. of fishing gear and food, and the normal contingent of propane tanks, cooking and sleeping gear, we'll still be at or just under the operator's manual spec. of 3800lbs. for normal operating weight.

Right now, she's a little lighter than that...


Shell_Dory.sized.jpg
 
Yup, it's confirmed. The factory was able to find the original bill of sale and there was a 28-gallon tank installed. I estimated 22-gallon by some rough measuring of the tank in place. Hmmm, 28 gallons might get me somewhere...

T
 
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