1982 22 Angler - rub rail insert question and hull repair

[Yukoner]

Quick question on the Taco rub rail inserts. They are the 1" tall x 1/2" wide model, correct? Taco part number V12-0303? Both my port and starboard inserts need replacement. My current ones measure out just a hair shy of those dimensions, but they are also assumed to be 40+ years old.

Also fun, I have delamination of the 5 teak keel strips.

These were factory installed - bedded with a sparse aount of some kind of 1980s resin goop on top of the bottom gelcoat, screwed into the boat's core and then the countersunk screw head was covered over with more poly resin. Two runners broke and a couple of screws broke off flush in the hull.

I use the boat in a lake with 6+ feet of change in the high water level from June 1 to July 1. As such, a good chunk of June right after ice out has me beaching and anchoring approx 100' from my dock until the water rises. Fortunately, the area in front of my dock is a large sand bar. Nonetheless, I want the runners in place so that the hull does not rest squarely on the sand. Also, keel runners are nice on a displacement hull for a lake boat.

I have begun the process of taking the boat off of its trailer, getting it listing to starboard and stripping off the keel strips and bottom gel coat. Peeling gelcoat is a horrible job.

My plan is to plug all old holes with thickened epoxy. I will form new hardwood keel strips in the fashion of the originals. This time I will bed them with thickened epoxy to the exposed fiberglass and screw them into the core. After filleting the runners I plan to add 3 to 4 layers of woven cloth wetted out with epoxy, the top couple coats of which will be augmented with graphite powder additive. The runners will now be emdedded into the glass.

Other housekeeping will be a bunch of gelcoat repair above and below the waterline on the sides and bow, a long overdue cut and polish, a new transducer mount, new prop for the main, new fenders, new dock lines, new anchor line, new fender lines, new fuel tank gauges and a new boarding ladder on the bow.

The trailer is going to get new wheels, lights, bearing buddies and some fresh carpeting on its guides and bunks.

I will post pictures of my struggles along the way : )

 

[Reelin2]

Impressive!! Can you share more of the process you used to roll it? Great work, please post more on your progress. Sorry no help on the rub rail insert.

 

[Yukoner]

To remove it from the trailer was easy. I milled some 6/4 lumber, cut it into cribbing and then positioned the trailer tongue down. I installed cribbing at the stern and then raised the trailer jack. This put the rear of the boat onto the cribbing. I then used a floor jack and more cribbing at the bow to dance around the trailer axle and crossmembers.

The boat was up about a foot and a half on the cribbing. With the floor jack I lowered it onto a bed of tires.

Once on the tires I used the floor jack and cribbing to start pushing it over. Once it got to about 35 degrees I augmented the jack with a sling and a comealong anchored to a work bench and wrapped around the base of my stainless roof rack. It went very slowly (purposefully).

It pretty much just rests there on its own. There is a line still attached for some degree of safety, but it just sits there slack.

 

[thataway]

There is one flaw in your plan: That is using mat. It does not take up the resin well because of the sizing which holds the mat together is not soluble in epoxy resin, where it is in soluable in polyester resin.

I would go with cloth for those layers attached to the boat. Hopefully you put epoxy plugs in the way of where the screws went into the boat's core (I believe the 1982, which would be one of the first of the older hull design and mold.). There will most likely,, be a plywood core. If you wanted to used the outermost layer of mat that would be OK just on the runners, since the biggest problem with the mat is to get it adhere to the filet's radius. I would use 6oz woven cloth which will conform better and have good resin to glass ratio.

You will have filled in the screw countersunk holes also--I would use epoxy with cabosil or medium density fairing compound.

 

[Yukoner]

I hear you. I am using cloth - it's a biaxial cloth of some sort. Can't remember the weight. I'm hardly a fiberglass guy and I interchanged the terms on account of my ignorance.

I sourced my epoxy supplies and cloth from Edmonton Boatcraft. Took the time and went through with the proprietor to ensure that I got appropriate materials.

And yes - the old screw holes will be filled with thickened epoxy. I am using West System 406 as my (silica) filler for filing, bonding, filleting and thickening so that I can apply it vertically.

Appreciate the tips. If you have anything else please share.

 

[thataway]

I would use a regular weave cloth. Bi Axial is something like 1700 or 1200, which are bundles of fibers sewn together oriented in different directions. Add in mat, and you have 1708. Different numbers indicate weight of cloth, the orientation of fiber bundles, For biaxial the fiber orientation is at 45* or 90*. There are triaxials, with may have 0*/45*/90* or many combinations of orientations.

The different types of fiberglass "cloths" has increased dramatically over the years. It used to be Cloth, Mat and Woven Roving. The newer glass fabrics give better strength with less resin and less weight. Using 1708 vs 1700 will almost double the amount of epoxy resin--without any increase in strength. 45* orientation is best for the filets, This can be a 45* orientation. Or cheaper is to use woven cloth at 45*, instead of 0/90*. You are not looking at strength--just keeping the strips attached to the boat, and wear resistance. One layer is plenty os strength holding the stripes on the bottom of the boat. For thickness regular cloth works fine--or a mat designed just for Epoxies--which has an epoxy soluble filler.

 

[Yukoner]

Progress.

New keel strips done in oak. I radiused the edges with a router, drilled, countersunk and finally sanded. The new strips are bedded in thickened epoxy and clamped to the hull with stainless fasteners. The fastener heads have been covered with epoxy and the edges have fillets.

Next is to sand everything down again, degrease, cut cloth and begin covering the entire bottom hull.