Well with all this chatter on this event, I feel obligated to attend. This will be my first attendance at a C-Brat gathering and I'm really looking forward to seeing mods others have made to their boats (especially 22's). I used to moor in Lake Union so I have locked through quite a number of times.
Given the post asking about required equipment, I thought I'd give my 2cents worth of pointers-- (actually more like a quarter's worth)
First, those who haven't locked through (and even those who haven't done it for awhile) might benefit from a quick review of the process as posted at the lock's web site.
http://www.nws.usace.army.mil/PublicMen ... Navigating
This site gives a list of required equipment and some good advice. The section entitled "How to Conquer the Ballard Locks and Maintain Your Sanity." is worth reading. I have seen a number of "interesting" human interactions at the locks so the points about being prepared and staying calm are the most relevant. I am sure a number of divorces have started at the locks due to a lack of both.....
My short list -
For the small locks - lines of "15-20 feet are sufficient" and almost always serve the purpose. However, 50' lines are recommended and I have two in the boat just for this purpose. I've NEVER needed to use them in the small locks but have them ready none-the-less. I have used them in the large locks but it is likely we'll all go through the small locks in one batch.
Prior to entering the locks
1) Fender both sides of the boat - you don't know which side you will be asked to moor to AND you DEFINITELY don't know how good the other skippers are (especially those in very large Bayliners).
2) If you are not alone, your partner should DON A LIFE JACKET and then go out onto the bow with the bow line in hand. The life jacket is important anytime you go to the bow but is doubly important in the locks where you can easily bump the wall (or be bumped). It is also handy to have a boat hook at the bow (especially for inexperienced skippers or on windy days).
If you are alone: well in advance of entering the locks fender up and carefully coil the bow and stern lines (its best to have both stern lines attached). Then take a long loop of the bow line and hang it over the bow rail so that the bow line may be easily grabbed by the lock attendant or another boater. Leave a similar (but smaller) loop draped over each side at the stern. This simple prep can make things much easier as the lock attendants will help out a single-hander boater more often when you: a) make it easy for them to do so and b) leave these obvious hints for help.
After entering the locks.
3) Both the skipper and any crew should be aware of the following. FIRST AND FOREMOST - pay attention to the lock attendants. They give good firm instructions and are there to help. In addition:
a) The skipper has good control of the stern but not so much over the bow. Hence, once a bow line is attached, the skipper can back off of it to bring the stern in. However, if one misses attaching the bow line and the wind is blowing hard, it may be necessary to back out quite a bit and come back in to get the bow line attached. For those entering the locks on a windy day, be prepared for the guy/gal in front of you having to do this and leave them some room. Our C-Dory's (especially with camper tops) blow sideways nicely... Also, I have found that if conditions are quite windy, it is sometimes easier if the person with the bow line stands closer to the helm and holds onto the rail on the roof. The makes the reach to the wall MUCH easier. Then (as long as the skipper has the boat slowed sufficiently), it is possible to simply grab ahold of the wall and walk the boat into position. For beginners, this is the easiest, especially on the small locks. However, if you're all the way at the tip of the bow, this is not possible.
b) A line attached up current with nothing attached down current is generally OK but the reverse results in the up-current end of the boat swinging around, people yelling and generally bad things happening. For reference, the current in the locks flows towards the saltwater... The lock attendants will tell you which line to take off first AND WHEN to do so.
c) Leave enough slack on the bow line to allow the stern to be pulled in tight. You may need to adjust this after the stern is attached.
d) After you are attached, pay attention to the other boats behind you who are often waiting patiently for you to take their lines and tie them off. Often boats raft 3-5 deep in the large locks and 2-3 deep in the small locks. It's a bit annoying to try and catch the attention of someone who is not paying attention when you've been instructed to tie off to their boat.
e) Regardless of whether you tie off to the wall or raft off another boat, it is best if your lines go around their cleats and then get tied off back on your boat. This allows you to leave without the need to help at the lines. You may have to instruct the person receiving your line on how to do this as the first tendency is to tie it off on their side.
f) If the lock attendants or another boater offers to take your line, HAND it to them when possible or toss it just to one side of the attendant. They work 8 hour shifts and don't enjoy being hit in the chest, arms, face, etc by heavy lines all day long. If you are on the receiving end of a line, having a boat hook ready to catch the bad toss or to reach over and get the line is greatly appreciated by other boaters.
If you are single handed, locking through can be accomplished without help on a windy day by pulling up along the wall with a little forward momentum, tying off at the stern with a few feet of slack and putting the boat into gear to pull to bow in. Then with a line (pre-rigged) attached to the cleat just outside the window near the helm, reach out and tie off. After that, it is easy to adjust the boat's position if necessary. However, with good judgement and positioning, you're usually good to go.
Other things you should know/tips - commercial and govt guys have the right away no matter how long you have been in line. "Commercial" includes tour boats and charters. No need to get angry about this... If my livelihood depended on getting through the locks, I'd appreciate this priority. Since I'm out for fun, I'm happy to let those whose living depends on it go through in front of me. I don't have a choice but the attitude makes it easier to swallow.
The lock attendants/lock master will rarely answer any radio hailing from us lowly recreation boaters so don't bother unless you really need it. They generally will just ignore you. However, this summer when I had a nice hook stuck deep in my thumb (don't ask..) they were very quick to answer my hail and bring me in past others so I could get to the doctor sooner. They are there if you need them (on CH13) but only respond to emergencies for non-commercial boaters.
Assume the other boat coming up to you is not prepared (or competent). Another good reason for the boat hooks to keep him from putting new marks or holes in your boat. Also, this is a good time to have an extra line or two to provide for the unprepared soul trying to lock through. Yes, HE/SHE SHOULD be prepared but they often aren't and trying to tie them up with the 1.5 ft of ratty braided line they have is more effort than providing the decent spare line all nice C-brats carry.
Even though the walls in the small locks float, they occasionally (but rarely) get stuck. Pay attention and give slack immediately if needed and/or notify the lock operator. In the large lock, it is necessary for those on the wall to man their lines and give/take in slack as the water goes down/up. I saw a new boat owner this past summer tie off to the wall in the large locks outbound and have a very large cleat ripped right out of some very expensive teak at the stern. Lucky the flying cleat didn't kill or injure someone and I'm sure the $'s to repair to his big boat could have bought a nice radar for mine :roll: !
If you are rafting off of another boat (or 2 or 3 or 4), don't assume the person(s) on the wall know what they are doing or are strong enough to deal with the chore (especially in the large locks with very large boats owned by very old people). If they come loose, it may be necessary to apply some power to your boat to keep the whole group from crashing into the boats in front of or behind you. I had just such an occasion occur two summers ago, when the boater on the wall let loose of one line and our group of 5 boats nearly swung into the group in front of us. I was on the outside and had just enough time to jump down from my sunny chatting position on the bow, fire up an engine, engage reverse and pull the entire group back into position. Now I pay closer attention and sometimes leave an engine idling when the water starts to be lowered.
The most common situation where this kind of thing happens is when a nice 35+ footer comes in with a 70+ year old couple and gets 4-5 boats rafted off of it. Often the older man/woman on the crew simply cannot put enough pressure on the line to keep it from going to slack. The courteous boaters near him/her should jump across and lend a hand.
Speaking of courtesy - if there is a long line to get into the locks and there is limited space to tie off, invite others to raft off of you. Jockeying around for an hour is a waste of effort and fuel and you might just meet an interesting person by inviting them in to raft.
Sorry for the length - hope this is helpful.
Roger B
