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I was raised with the old set-up of marinized gas v-8s--mostly Chrysler 318 blocks--reverse gear and straight shaft and prop. Common wisdom was to not run them wide open. They were not designed to run under a load all the time anyway. Most of these engines were raw water cooled and rusted out...

I have a Chinese diesel ,heater branded "maXeedingrods," from Amazon. Don't know the actual manufacturer. It has the integral tank. I upgraded the exhaust and through-hull--otherwise pretty much plug 'n' play. I have only used it this winter, but so far love it--plenty of heat for a C-dory...

Ron, that view is very helpful, and a very pretty job. Bob, you are right about the bunk being ergonomically too high, but I think I will try it anyway--if it is not comfortable, I have not lost much--I can always go the barber chair mod later. Thanks both. Sam

Two mods I would like to make in my 22'. Cutting out some of the port bulkhead between the pilothouse and trunk cabin, to increase access and ventilation forward; and making a forward-facing front port seat. I have looked through lots of photos and posts on making a barber chair mod, all of...

Thanks for posting that, guys. I have been lucky enough to have some pretty and capable boats, but none more so than Tortuga. I was shocked and saddened to see her falling into disrepair, while driving down the highway in a place I had never been before last year, in the Florida Panhandle. I...

If you are willing to go over 8.5 beam, there are lots of nice "trailerable" cruisers our there. I had a Cheoy Lee Monterey Clipper, "Tortuga," strip-planked mahogany, on a custom trailer. Beautiful, comfortable, capable 31 footer, what George Buehler calls a "troller" yacht. But I sold her...

Steve, that is a very generous offer. I would very much like to come down in a few weeks and look through her. I will send a p.m. and we can try to find I time that is right for you. Thanks! Sam

I am wondering if anyone has a 25' cruiser I could walk through in the Mid-Atlantic area? I am looking at retirement in around a year, and am hoping to go from my 22' to a larger boat, a C-Dory 25 or a R'borough 246. I am familiar with the seakeeping qualities of the 246 and have a good idea...

I was looking for one of these units right up until December. The previous owner took the stove out for more counter space and put in a Dometic water based heat pump. That works, but I am not using Runt in a berth with electricity, so it did me no good. Last month I put in one of the Chinese...

Tom, I will be very interested in the data you develop, particularly comparing a 22' planning dory, below hull speed (dragging its transom) with a heavily rockered double ender like the St. Pierre. I have owned one St. Pierre with a one cyl. Sabb (not Saab!) diesel, and it was very easily...

Thanks--sounds like the consensus is 12' is a safe minimum. This has all been very helpful. Sam

All good advice. If I put up a pole building, I can go as high as I want. If I buy a prefab metal carport style, and want a standard size, I am limited to 11 or 12 feet (depending on the manufacturer).

Colby, thanks. That is the answer I needed. I had better ensure an opening height of 10' 6" or so. Much appreciated. Sam

I have a C-dory 22 that I keep under a pair of the cheap polytarp-and-steel-tubing shelters you can buy for around $100 online. I overlapped them to make a shelter 10' x 30', and extended the legs with pvc pipe so I can back the 22 boat underneath, with the shelter sides guyed to pegs driven in...

Bob, thanks. I have debond and will try it; the problem is getting it behind the frame and onto the sealant itself. I cannot even drive a thin metal putty knife behind the frame. It can't hurt to try soaking the area with debond, though. I hate to destroy the frame. Here is one more dumb...

I wonder if anyone can address the thickness of the cabin in front where the windows are installed. As close as I can measure it with the window in place, I get 1/4" Is that right? Seems to be solid glass. If I could get the window out, I could put calipers on it, but so far no luck. I have...

That is timely advice, Bob--thanks, I have ordered a tube. Any suggestion for glue to hold the latch on the sliding side window? Epoxy? Super glue?

C-wolfe and ssobol, thanks for the heat gun tip--it helped with the window latch and I will try it on the forward window frame. Steve, that is good advice about the hatch lens Could I ask what sealant you used? Thanks all. Sam

I have three "windows" to replace on Runt. One is the lens on the hatch--that came out easily. Second is the center forward window, which is fixed--I am going to put in a top-hinged window. I have not been able to remover it--I am having a heck of a time getting whatever it is bonded in to...

Thanks for all the help. I will report beck this spring once I have the weather to open the transom, via a new thread, if there is any interest in what I find. Sam