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Well went to WM today and got the 2 18" rails. I wanted something to go between the rail and gel coat and they recommended I go to AutoZone and get gasket material and cut it. I got a piece of that but not sure it is what I want to use. Any suggestions from anyone?

I'll second that!

Thanks for the responses. I will get this project done very soon. I'm 6'3" and reaching out from under the bimini for the handrail gets to be a pain. But, many of you already know that.

I want to install hand rails on Finale's (25') cabin top and I want something like those on the cabin in the cockpit. Any suggestions of what from where? :smiled

I will be adding the check valve to my line too.

Btw the leak was at the black cap on the bottom of the foot valve. Just screwed it tight and problem solved. The manual was the big help. Thanks again Dr. Bob.

Thataway There is a Bow Stop mfg and it is attached to the front beam. I will be using a motor stop which is attached to the rear beam. The cable lifts we use here hang inside the pilings and the pilings stop the cradle from going too far forward. The anchor should get no closer than 2' from the...

Steve, Thanks for the offer but have the whole lift and controllers just waiting for the barge to come.

Fresh water only. I'll get into it in a few days. The manual was a big help. :smiled

Dr. Bob and others. Thanks for this info. I will read the text you sent and when I fix it I will also put a shutoff valve on it. Couldn't wash off saltwater today because the leak was so bad. Sprays on the deck in the head. At least I know the shower bilge pump works. :wink:

Here is the end to this thread. For $$$ the hydralic lift is being removed and replaced with a cable lift that is going to be 12' from the pier instead of only 6' and a motor stop attached to the bunks. Most problems concerning boats can be solved with enough $$$$. Just my .02

My CD 25 toilet has a foot actuator for pressure water flush. Apparently the valve under the peddle has gone bad and leaks so bad the pump continues to run. What is the needed part and is this a WM available part? :shock:

Pat and others, I am going to put rubber pads forward and aft in the roller. That should keep the roller from bouncing and smashing into the bow jelcoat. I will make sure the anchor still deploys. I feel better knowing everyone seems to have the gas odors too. I might try stuffing some mesh...

My local dealer is researching this but I might try to reduce, not stop, the venting. I have temporarily taped over them to confirm them as the source.

After looking and feeling around I don't think there is a canister in there. Also the vent hose goes up to the gunnel before bending down a foot to the vent. No place for fuel to sit. And I haven't filled the tank since buying Finale.

Well I thought he should know the answer for real. Drives for a ferry company on his 6pack license. Oh, well.

I'll just add what you all know and that is to have an umbrella policy over the normal liability coverage. Enjoy life and friends and remember all of life is a gamble. Also, a captain friend just told me last night if you throw your line to give a tow then you just took responsibility for his...

Thanks for the info about the gas caps. I looked at the Perko site and it says boats before 2011 and then boats after 2011. Mine is a 2013 so it seems I should have the newer fill. My cap looks like nothing more than a threaded cap with retainer cable. The vents are one on each side outside of...

Sorry, my sniffing around meant I opened every possible opening and tried to determine if it was gas in the gas tank space. Nothing was detected, and I do have a very good nose.

I haven't been able to find my questions answered so here goes: 1. I have the SeaDog bow anchor roller that pivots. When I weigh anchor if the anchor comes in too much it slams into the roller and causes it to pivot up. Then the SeaDog slams down on the upper bow gel coat and has chipped it off...