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22# Lewmar Claw works for me in all bottoms I have tried it in, sand, mud, gravel, rocks, what ever, so far? I switched to 100' of chain also a few years back. In my experience the amount of chain is as important if not more important than anchor type. YMMV :thup

I have found outdated parts & complete take out units at the local commercial fishing electronics sales & repair stores. Worth a trip to google or yellow pages if they still exist?:thup

https://marinetech.com/ Bought a Seastar bleeder kit from these guys for a whopping $28.00 Works fantastic :wink: Check out some of their utube vids on seastar seal replacement , trim & tilt cylinder rebuild. Great tools, Great video & great info. :thup

What a great guy :monty :thup

King / rockfish / halibut carcasses make fantastic crab bait :thup Make sure all your info is on your buoy set up, the Troopers & Park ranger are being very picky this season. :wink: :thup

Se if you can find a Factory service manual to download on line or pony up at your local dealer , it will have step by step procedures to replace your seals. Good luck on your project :thup

I always leave the lower unit in the water when below freezing. Water temps will be far greater than aimb. for a couple more months any way. The engine will stay warm when you shut it off for plenty long enough for water in the block to drain :thup I have had a boat sitting in the Homer Harbor...

Just a reminder if you choose to use the "muffler" that may or may not come with the China heater WELD UP THE SEAM so NO EXHAUST LEAKS INTO CABIN!! :thup

I think all of the "LIBTARDS" SHOULD MOVE TO CANADA where the can feel all warm & fuzzy & safe :thup

I have installed 2 of these in friends boats. First one lasted 2 yrs & aprox 600 hrs. it was replaced last month, second one was installed 2 months ago they work as advertised are no more or less noisy than the Wabasto, Espar etc.. :thup At the price they are a throw away if problems occur. :wink:

Great, I have been running my DIESEL STOVE on Kerosene for about 2000 hrs. I also have used Jet A, & #2 pump Diesel(aka stove oil) there isn't much difference other than freeze pt. (when paraffin drops out)! In warmer temps #2diesel will be perfect. Also run all of the above in the truck. :thup...

Lugging the engine is hard on crankshafts, bngs, pistons etc. Think starting out in 4th gear on your PU with a manual trans. You have WAY too big of prop I would go down in pitch about 4 steps & try it.

probably a 11 pitch to get you to 5500rpm or so :thup

Isn't there a floatbowl drain also? :thup

Not normal for a crack along the bottom of transom. Pictures are worth a thousand words :thup

Why not clean fish out on the water & only pack meat home? Not trying to be a smartass(witch is unusual) just asking. :thup

Looks familiar :thup

And its not just C-dory, most boats are a pos to fill. When I replaced the tanks on my 22 I made the fill hose about 6" shorter on both sides making a pretty much straight shot into tanks. That helped a bunch. Also removed the kink the factory had in the vents. :thup

22 is 20" 25 is 25" & no clue what a 16 is. :thup

https://alaskaslist.com/-3/posts/10_Tra ... uiser.html :thup