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Hunh. Maybe you got thinner water there :wink: Could be more like 15 feet maybe. Also could be our seas are not fully developed and yours are ... longest fetch my section of the Columbia River is maybe 15 miles. Superior fetches must run over 50 miles, minimum.

Agree with Westward. Any 20 ft planing hull will be a rough ride in short period seas ... and 2 ft chop usually runs about 20 feet between crests, just the wrong separation for a CD 22. Even a displacement hull will give you a rough ride. Unfortunately, only shifting to a much larger vessel...

What joe said about steering wheel tape. Handle bar tape for bicycles, same deal, though probably take a couple sets.

Ordinary air dried fir is just fine for epoxy adhesion. No need for kiln dried.

Thataway wrote: The problem I see is getting rid of the oxygen which is in the can--do you pull a vacuum, and then replace that with some inert gas? How much "flooding" with the 1,1-DIFLUOROETHANE does one have to do, to displace a significant amount of oxygen? I don't know. It is denser than...

Harvey, same stuff, different name, per thataway's remarks: 3M uses 1,1-DIFLUOROETHANE, which is H 152a refrigerant. This is the non-ozone-depleting substitute for the old Freon in refrigerators, etc. A whiff is OK, but avoid breathing copious quantities.

This is nuts. Down the street, the local marine supply store has a longtime employee whose specialty is selling and helping customers through these hurdles. You need someone with his experience and knowledge. Guys like him can't ALL live on the West Coast! PS Rodgers Marine is the go to...

Stick to the dust off. Moisture in your breath. Plus, 15% oxygen in exhaled breath is still too much. Definitely do not inhale the dust off gas!

Oxygen is the culprit. Introduce a slow stream of nitrogen while the lid is barely cracked, and push it shut after 5 minutes of purging. I think the propellant in dust free aerosal cans might be a good purging gas, also.

Several posts back, I described the local marine supply outfit, from which Becky retired a year ago, after 10 years of satisfying and rewarding employment. I forgot to mention that a couple of the hires in recent years were folks who moved up here to get out of the rat race in Southern...

For the ten years Becky worked for the local marine and industrial supply outfit, I enjoyed a solid relationship with their sales force, and learned the expertise of each person. This is a quality employer with deep roots locally, and a substantial clientele of sports and commercial fishermen...

Harvey said: I'd bet the average WM worker knows more about boat stuff than the average Home Depot person knows about home building, hardware, tools or lighting. Ooof. Harvey, that is a backhanded compliment of great acuity! Even the local marine supply has a couple clinker sales...

Harvey, EM here does not stock bronze machine screws. On the way home, stopped by and looked at catalog info on a couple Groco bronze valves equipped with bonding connection points. No specifics on size, thread pitch of screw. EM suggests you contact their sales desk with P/N of valve you...

Not sure I helped you much. Chasing wires is frustrating. If it disappears there, then you need to pick it up elsewhere by testing for continuity. You may be able to reassure yourself that it goes to "ground" by disconnecting the battery and then using an ohmmeter to see if you have...

Harvey, where does the wire go? By itself, a bronze fitting is pretty stable and resistant against salt water corrosion. Dr. Bob's question is worth considering. If you can size the screw and threads, call Englund Marine down here and explain your dilemma.503 325 4341. Open at 730 am. They...

Harvey, to reinforce what Dr Bob said about working overhead with epoxy and glass: I have never worked large areas. Most have been a few square inches, with maybe one as large as 12 x 12 inches, but working overhead is straightforward, largely because epoxy resin is relatively viscous, and...

Boris, My naive assumption on keeping antifouling paint off the bronze screen/thruhull innards is based on two principles: Marine growth should not occur on bronze because the copper in it should prevent barnacles and similar from attaching there. Sediment, sand, etc., will catch there...

The milled glass fibers are important ... they add needed strength to the resin mix. With added thickener, should be able to dab it into the crack and squeegee it into position, even overhead. Experienced folks can make these mixes in a small sandwich bag, cut a corner, and squeeze it out just...

The grill and the thruhull and the valve should be bronze, not brass. Brass will lose zinc and become worthless. Why do you want to remove this system? If intact, and not corroded, it should last forever. As to the "ground wire," where does it go? A proper setup should tie it to other metal...

Harvey, you may have had an imperfection in the original layup, in the form of an air bubble, bizarre as it sounds, which lay between a thin layer of gel coat against the mold and the first layer of glass. As normal wear and tear wore away that thin layer, the bubble became exposed. It does not...