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I had the same experience as ferret30. My boat is a 2007. The ilco blank worked for the glass door.

I spoke with Sue, the office manager at PlasTeak and PlasDeck, at the boat show in Cleveland last weekend. Oddly, PlasDeck amd PlasTeak have separate websites; one is made for interior and the other is thicker for exterior. I think Nick on Valkyrie has used the interior product both inside and...

I'm in the market for a CD-22 swim step. I'd prefer not to put holes below the waterline and my boat has a single outboard and Bennett trim tabs. The step should have, or accept, a ladder (preferably 3 or 4 steps). Any suggestions or offers? I realize factory swim steps may be had for about $400...

And here is the result. The router did a nice clean job. It was easy to install a round 6 inch deck hatch in the hole.

I made the cut in several passes, lowering the bit each time.

Blue tape will help prevent chips or tearout while cutting.

We\'ll use a router with a spiral upcut bit to make the hole. Luckily I have a multi-purpose router base and with a wooden plug to fit the existing hole, it will guide the circle cut.

The problem: Under the plastic cap there\'s water in the space below the cabin floor, and the foam is soaked. An access port will be needed.

Now wet core is hogged out of all 3 holes. I attacked it from below too. All 4 stanchion bases had to be done. ith tape over the bottoms we filled all the holes with thickened epoxy, re-drilled and reinstalled the stanchions with new bedding.

With a bent wire chucked into a drill and some digging by hand we hog out wet core material from the first hole.

Removing the bow pulpit, we see moldy stains under one of the bases where rain has been dripping into the cabin.

I want to re-mount the trim tabs on my boat (previous installer didn't do a good job) and called West Systems about the best material to use to fill the holes before replacing the screws. Their tech was very helpful. He said they've done a test in which the winner, for holes into which you will...

I used one of the grit blades in a jigsaw to cut some 1/4" G-10 fiberglass board this summer. It worked surprisingly well. Did it outdoors, wearing a painter-type mask with good 3M filter, and with the shop-vac running by the cut. G-10 is much heavier than the glass in the decks of the C-Dory...

Both in buying and selling, a boat with a nationwide and active owners' group gives you a big advantage. That's an advantage that isn't always mentioned when the virtues of C-Dorys are listed.

And one more possible material: rope caulk. One of my sailing mags just carried an article by an old sailor who says he's used hardware store rope caulk for bedding deck hardware for 15 years and never had a failure. I got out an old box from the basement where it's been around more than 30...

Your reverse non-skid pad looks great. My windlass is also a Lewmar V700. I'd thought of grinding down the nonskid but I'm reluctant to cut into things -- need to get over that, apparently -- and the photos from Voyager are reassuring. Also thought of building a "pad" of 4200 by applying it in...

Sunbeam, that's a great idea about eye nuts. Clever solution to a common problem. Jack, I've heard of stanchions exploding from the force of freezing water on sailboats. Not easy to fix! With the windlass off it is easy to see one source of leaks: it sits partly on the nonskid and partly off...

Today I reinstalled the bow pulpit using butyl tape as sealant. Sailrite has a nice video promoting this method: http://www.sailrite.com/Butyl-Tape-Bedd ... Video-Demo While waiting for a helper to arrive, I removed the windlass. I'd hoped not to find the same problem there. Silly me. Again I...

Thanks for the idea on relief holes. I'll be filling from the top so my first challenge is to seal the bottom holes to keep epoxy from dropping through. West System seems to like packing tape ... wonder why? I called their tech line today and the tech recommended using 404 filler because it has...