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I knew people that had cats on a sailboat. One fell off the boat one night at anchor. Fortunately, they heard the splash and were able to fish it out. It was a black cat on a dark night, so the cat got lucky, but expended one life.

I also have Progressive and had the same experience. It seems to me that if you go with agreed value, it is easy for the insurance company to price a policy. For a hull loss, the worst case payout is the agreed value (not counting liability, etc.) and they don't have to spend any effort to...

Never been to the Apostle Islands, but I would be interested in going there.

You could always attach lines to the bow eye. If I know I am going to use a mooring, I attach a line to my bow eye that is long enough to reach around to the cockpit. The line has a shackle that is connected to the mooring ring or pendant. For mooring at dock you can have two lines that can go...

Either/both of those places would be of interest to me.

Saltaway is used to remove salt accumulations. It is not a preventative.

The fittings for my rear bimini straps are screwed into the flat panels in the rear of the cockpit that cover the fuel tanks. You just have to make sure that the screws are not too long.

My 22 has them low down on the exterior of the aft cabin bulkhead. If you board at the side from a dock with the bimini up, you have to mind the strap.

Depending on the temperature, you should allow about 24 hours after you think you're done to tighen again.

One of the selling points of a C-Dory is shallow draft and fuel efficiency. Adding a keel would counter those goals. There are plenty of deep V boats or boats without deck houses that are better in a crosswind. If that is your priority, then a C-Dory might not be for you. Pick your docks that...

Also makes a good anti-freeze for people who keep their boats in colder climes.

Each battery having its own BMS can cause this issue. You want "dumb" batteries with a charge controller that feeds both as one battery source.

You run the drill in reverse to get through the gelcoat to prevent chips. Cracks are a different issue.

I don't know about th ecoring, but if I was doing it, I would try to through bolt it if at all possible. You can take out the side bins to get to the underside of the gunwale. If you are going to through drill, I'd be careful about the wire bundle that is on the starboard side.

I always found that a heat gun followed by acetone was a good way to get lettering off things. Doesn't even take two beers.

Are you sure is it not an outlet from the inverter to get 120ac into the cockpit?

David at Cruising the Cut on YT is in the process of doing the same thing you are considering in replacing the wet core of a FG boat transom. The boat is a different brand, but the technique is the same. So far he has cut off the outer skin of his boat and removed the sodden core. David posts...

FYI, 2nd Thursday of May 2026 is the 14th.

My 22 has the flat floor. I put Ikea tiles in the cockpit. I used the wood tiles for a few years. These tiles required varnishing the wood. This year I'm replacing them with the all plastic tiles. Not sure how this will work on the sloped floor. Cost about US$100 to do at the time...

I have used lettering.com for years. It works well and the lettering is durable. The name on my boat is about 12 years old and still looks fine. You have to apply it yourself or hire someone to do the installation. Any decent sign shop should also be able to do lettering for you.