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Good to hear. I have one coming today for our 22!

I doubt this boat weighing trick would work for a tandem trailer unless the weight could be loaded onto one axle (i.e. on blocks). Even then, it seems to me that the measured weight would include the trailer, minus the wheels and axles. So you'd need to know this specific weight. If you know...

Well the ABYC apparently is against using them in the bilge as I have, so I was wondering what else they'd be for. I have a feeling I could get away with having the valve on the primary pump (keep the bilge dryer), and not use one on the "emergency" secondary pump that is mounted higher. What...

Thanks for the links! Something to read during morning coffee!

Thanks for pointing that out. The primary pump had that backflow preventer on it so I bought an identical one when I bought hoses and clamps for the backup. Unfortunately that means I need to go buy new hoses (again) since the installed ones are in 2 sections. At least the tanks don't have to be...

One other interesting thing that came up while doing these projects was that my 2006 seems to have a different cockpit construction than many other boats. I noticed when I was looking for alternate tank strap locations that the hull sides around the tanks appeared to be 1" thicker in some places...

2012-09-13 13-59-09 942

2012-09-13 13-59-18 285

Thanks for the comments, and I'm sure someone else here has already done this, so I'm not taking credit! Some people have mentioned that it's good to have a higher volume pump than the stock 1100 that a lot of us have, but in order to use something bigger, you tend to have to use a larger hose...

I forgot to ask, what's your current boat? I remember you sold the 25 and got a C-Dory dinghy, but I'm guessing the bilge on that is wide open!

On mine there's enough room behind the tanks to fit the hoses and one of the one way valves. I think the tank back face is more vertical than the transom, so the space is kind of wedge shaped. This space allowed me to install the swim step using through bolts high and low instead of using lag...

Recently while I had the tanks out for cleanup and to do the swim step, I took the time to install a second bilge pump. I didn't want to use any more through hulls, and I don't use the port lazarette as an fish/ice box. So I removed the lazarette to through hull hose and used the through hull...

2012-09-14 16-32-24 283

Just curious, what happened to day 90 and 91?

Here's another excellent article (there are a few awesome ones on the site): www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware Also see this one: www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck

Sounds like a plan. And this will be done sitting on a milk crate in a foot of water behind the boat hich ill be pulled to the shallow end of the dock. No $250 haul out for this guy! Cordless tools only while in the water. Safety first!

When I drill a hole through the transom (or any cored material) and undercut, epoxy, re-drill, I'm concerned that unless I am lucky, the new hole won't be on the same axis and I'll end up elongating the hole on the other side, *and* potentially drilling out the side of the epoxy plug. How do...

One question regarding the swim step install. For the upper connection I installed 2 3/8" bolts through the transom with 1.5" fender washers on both sides and a nyloc nut. I did not (yet) drill lower holes since it wasn't going to be practical while the boat was in the water. The question is...

On my boat it looks like they put down a couple of blobs of epoxy and then smooshed the bilge pump basket/base into it. The epoxy got forced through the little mesh holes, so it's pretty secure.

Those strap mounts look like a good solution, except that I wonder if you'd be depending on the gelcoat adhesion to the fiberglass. When I removed the existing footman loops, they managed to pull round chunks of gelcoat off the fiberglass without much effort. Of course the contact surface area...