Forward Dock Lines, Snubbing and chafing

Donald Tyson · Joined: 24 Jul 2023 Posts: 546 Photos: Thistle

The plans for my windlass installation is almost complete and I hope to begin work on it in July.
There are still some questions. I know it seems you can't have enough attachment points on a boat. But do most of you use the single center front cleat every time you tie off at a dock? I haven't yet done so though my only experience with docking was at Beresford Yacht club during Hontoon this year, and only for a few nights. I simply found no real need to plug into that 10" center cleat.
I'm concerned about chafing on the gunnels if I were to use Snubbing gear. There are no Chocks or fairleads on most of this groups boats and perhaps I'm thinking too hard and chafing from snubbers is not a "thing". When you use snubbing gear is it always protected with chafing protection (covers) and what is it that the chafing protection is protecting the most? Is it more to protect the snubbing lines from wear or is it more to protect the gelcoat from wearing thin going over the sides?

gstraub · Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2025 5:33 am Post subject:

I usually use the cleats by the forward windows when I tie up somewhere other than home, at least for short stays, as it is more convenient than the center cleat on the bow. At our home berth, we have two lines, port and starboard, that go to the center cleat on the bow. I put chafe gear made of ballistic nylon where the lines pass over the edge of the boat to protect the lines. Have had no issues so far.

pbahn · Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2025 6:26 am Post subject:

Good question Donald and glad you asked. It seems most (me included) do as Gerhard does but I'm finding that the anti chafe wrap on the forward lines still rub on the gel coat of the deck. I'm about to just mount chalks.

Paul Bahn
Sláinte

Donald Tyson · Joined: 24 Jul 2023 Posts: 546 Photos: Thistle

I'm looking into the chrome bars I'm seeing screwed to the gunnels on some boats in place of or in stead of the chocks.

Donald Tyson · Joined: 24 Jul 2023 Posts: 546 Photos: Thistle

Might I use these instead of chocks?

RUB STRAKE HALF OVAL HOLLOW BACK STAINLESS STEEL (316)

thataway · Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2025 2:40 pm Post subject:

You should be looking for SS rub strakes (they are quarter round, not half round.) Get 315 SS. There are many on Amazon. Not chrome plated. The chrome will wear plated brass will wear. IF you had a classic mahogany runabout, then I might consider chrome plated deck hardware to be period correct.

Schuster · Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2025 5:02 pm Post subject:

On my boat I keep my bow line attached to the center cleat all the time. I run it from the center cleat thru the chalk down the stbd side where I make a turn around the rear part forward cleat and loop over the forward end of the cleat and run the remaining line back to the cockpit. I generally just hang it into the cockpit until I land the boat at the dock which makes it quite easy to single hand land the boat by grabbing the line and stepping off the boat as it approaches the dock. The line is not long enough to reach the prop should it somehow manage to go overboard. This allows the bow of the boat to be tied and a distance from the dock I like and from there spring it back to the forward cleat, then set the stern line with a similar spring. This will keep the boat parralel to the dock and closed to the dock for boarding/unboarding.

IMO as far as chaffing goes, we as C-dory owners generally do not live aboard our boats and for the most part keep them on the trailer. I personally think that the way these boats are designed that there is little need to worry about chaffing or the hull gelcoat being rubbed away. In all my years of boating I have not had an instance of a critically damaged line due to chaffing. If you plan on keeping it stored on a mooring buoy all the time, then I would be more concerned about it. Good luck on your windlass installation.

Donald Tyson · Joined: 24 Jul 2023 Posts: 546 Photos: Thistle

Thanks for al the answers. IMO these boats don't impress me as being the best choice a permanent mooring boats. No real reason they shouldn't be its just that they're pretty easy to put back onto the trailer.
I guess I agree with Bob that the Item I was thinking of were called 1/4 round rub strakes. 304 or 316 unlike the chrome I mentioned. It just seems like overkill. So hey!, that's even easier yet. After all, as mentioned, it's not a classic woody of some sort.
I'm ready to get started as soon as Iate June or early July and I can't wait.

gstraub · Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2025 4:48 pm Post subject:

Our boat is typically in the water all year long, except for maintenance. It gets used for short hops usually. Protected water except for the occasional idiot throwing a huge wake. Haven't had any issues. Tie up is to fixed pilings with a line to each stern cleat and two lines to the center bow cleat. The slip is wide so the lines are kept very slack so she can bounce around if necessary before coming up tight on the lines. I keep thinking about putting some of those snubbers in the lines, but then I'd have to make up new lines because it would make the current ones too short, so it hasn't made it to the top of the list yet!

ssobol · Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2025 7:19 pm Post subject:

You could always attach lines to the bow eye. If I know I am going to use a mooring, I attach a line to my bow eye that is long enough to reach around to the cockpit. The line has a shackle that is connected to the mooring ring or pendant.

For mooring at dock you can have two lines that can go from the eye to each side of the slip. When you cast off, pull the ends of the line onto the boat and secure them around the center cleat so they can't drag in the water.

Donald Tyson · Joined: 24 Jul 2023 Posts: 546 Photos: Thistle

It's been 25 or more years since I picked up a mooring and it was at Keyport Yacht Club in Raritan Bay, NJ, from an Albin 29 sailboat. I can't for the life of me remember how it went. Do you always carry your own harness or do most harbors provide them? Do all morning balls have a clevis/shackle on them ready for your use? I simply don't remember and I will need to polish up on this.
If it has what is needed can I pull along side in my little boat and tie off before going forward to make adjustments?
I guess the reason I never used the front Bow Cleat is that I've never docked for extended stays on tidal waters.
Sobol I do understand having lines short enough to not fowl the props

thataway · Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2025 1:01 pm Post subject:

There are all sorts of moorings. Some just a ring on the top of the float, some have a pickup, and you take that aboard, some have a "sand line" which goes to an aft cleat. Usually a nice 3 strand line from the forward cleat going off the bow on one side and back on the other is OK. It is rare that you have to provide a shackle. Some would require a huge shackle. Look in Chapmans book on seamanship.

Donald Tyson · Joined: 24 Jul 2023 Posts: 546 Photos: Thistle

I'll check that in Chapmans. Thanks so much.

multimediasmith · Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2025 5:57 am Post subject:

These are some of the least pointed I’ve seen.
Good for a bridle setup rom the side window cleats.
I’ve had them in my Amazon “hold for later” bin awaiting their turn.
First time asking a url… here goes nothin’

[url] https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081TKRSNV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?th=1

Described as “ MarineNow Marine 316 Stainless Steel Straight Bow Chock for Boats”[/url]

thataway · Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2025 10:11 am Post subject:

I wonder how much chafe with a sharp angle around one of the sides of each chock. I have always used a bow cleat vs window cleats for a foreward line. From the forward mid ships cleat, this leaves another rope on deck to trip or roll an ankle over. That is why I use the 1/4 round SS rubbing strakes.