Cruiser 22 with some interior paint peeling

[Username8675309]

Hey CBrats,

I'm in the market for a 22ft Cruiser and have found what looks to be the perfect vessel! Upon a close inspection there is one issue I'd like some sage advice on, here's some peeling on the interior of the cabin. Mostly on the floor and to a lesser extent on the upper rear corner of the interior. I'm more than capable of sanding and repainting and I would be happy to do it if needed.

My only hesitation is that it's indicative of a larger issue with the hull itself or some other unknown connection that I'm not able to piece together. I'll attach a link for some pictures and a quick video below. Is this a known issue or something typical of C Dory's? I just wanted to bounce this question off of this group before we take the plunge and make the "investment".

Thanks in advance with any luck I'll post some pictures post-sale.

https://imgur.com/gallery/interior-paint-peeling-issues-c-dory-cruiser-22-glTLycG

[thataway]

I am not positive about this answer mainly because I am not certain if this is an adherence problem between the usual paint--which is an off white with flecks of dark color or a paint called "Zolatone splatter finish" which was put on in an overly thick layer. The base color is slightly off the colors I am familiar with, but tint could have been added. In any case this was not a standard paint color used. But I have seen small areas of the Zolatone which was too thick and did not adhere well, peal off like this. Also I have seen small areas of tabbing not adhere. If there is widespread lack of adherence--it brings into question as to how well the inside of the hull was prepared before painting or laying down the tabbing?

The other possibility is that an additional coat of a paint which has some insulation and sound deadening characteristics--and is thick. Again, it is thick, maybe two coats. But this does not look typical of this paint.

Two photos looks to be near the hull to deck joint which should have been glassed over on the inside. There is one repair--or an area with thicker compound probably where a poprivet was applied to keep the rub rail insert in place over this hull to deck joint on the outside. The one on the bottom is where there is tabbing also.

This boat has a fiberglass interior and all of the photos show that the pealing paint is at the inner edge of the tabbing either of the furniture to the hull (floor) or the glassing of the hull to deck joint. (sides of the boat)

That begs the question if the hull was flexing for some reason--but all brings the question why there was poor adherence? We know that some years where there were low production numbers and the ownership of the brand was in a state of flux--may have had more cosmetic issues.

If the hull or bottom does not show excessive movement, than I would not consider this a "deal killer". I would try and find out more of the history of this boat from prior owners...I don't think that you need to remove the paint, but I would definaely see how far the loose tabbing (Mat or cloth tape, used to adhere two parts of a fiberglass boat together) goes. If that cloth/mat is loose (can be pried up with a knife--or sounded out with a phenolic hammer.). You should discuss this with the seller. If you both want to go to sea trial, then you can pay very close attention to any flexing in the bottom (especially where the cracking is located) or flexing of the hull vs the cap (deck and superstructure.)

[ssobol]

Peeling like this can be indicative of water (or some other liquid) getting under the paint surface.

Some boats have/had a problem with water from the cockpit entering the cabin by coming under the aft cabin bulkhead.

[WannabeCBrat]

Dr Bob's reply might make a c-dory newbie want to run from this purchase. He is a wealth of knowledge; however, I believe, you should look at this peeling as a positive thing. Here's how.

You will find that directly on the other side in your pictures is a c-dory's rub-rail, and it's mounting should be visible from the inside (where the peeling is present in your pictures) by glassed over and painted pop rivets bumps.

Use this peeling to your advantage to negotiate a drastically reduced purchase price. Offer the seller 25% to 40% off the purchase price. Because it might be more than a few days of work to remove the peeling stuff and patch/glass it the correct way, so don't sell yourself short. Highly doubtful it is a structural problem, but more along the line as an incorrect repair job. Do some research on "rub-rail repair" by searching the c-brat forums here to see what is all involved. http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=14439

Good luck on your purchase and remember to search the forms here for any questions you might have.

Brian

[T.R. Bauer]

I'm not going to drone on and on about why I think it is an adhesion issue, but that is what I see in the pictures. If the glasswork is cracked behind the paint, which I couldn't tell from the pictures, then something is moving that probably should not be. And then it's not adhesion any longer. I've seen worse....I don't know the price point so it's hard to say if it's worth it. But if it is priced similarly to other boats, I would buy one that doesn't have that concern.

[ssobol]

[T.R. Bauer]

[Karl Konecny]

Four years ago I bought a 22' cruiser of the same year with similar problems. Your paint looks a little different color than mine but on my boat it was "just" an adhesion problem. I believe the manufacturer did not clean the hull properly in all places. What I noticed on my boat is that some of the tabbing between the cabinets/walls and the actual hull had also pulled loose from the hull. I still bought the boat (at a good price) and, based on advice from great C-Brats, ground off the loose tabbing and replaced it. Not that hard of a job. There was no water intrusion in the hull, all balsa was sound. The boat and repairs have worked wonderfully for the past 4 years. My boat had no foam under the v-berth but had three factory installed storage areas. Inside those compartments was where some of the most extensive tabbing had pulled loose from the hull. My tabbing job (following Dr. Bob's advice) has worked perfectly. Good luck on your boat.

[WCF]

Just going to repeat what everyone else is saying:

Agree this is the tabbing coming away from the hull, probably not structural if on the floor/furniture.

I have seen this on two 25s and in both cases the glass under the tabbing was glass-smooth and waxy - A sure sign of bad prep/layup at the factory.