New pivoting anchor roller position

[LesR]

I'm updating my anchor roller (Lewmar pivoting) in advance of installing a Windlass (Lewmar V700 Horizontal on order) and encountered the following issues when placing it consistent with the original (Windline non-pivoting) version:

1: When placing the anchor roller to in the same location as the original, it can only pivot a short distance before hitting the front of the bow as shown in the following photo:


2: If I position the roller forward far enough to allow a full range of the pivot without impacting the bow, it's too far forward - the forward bolt hole will not go through to the anchor locker.


I elevated the anchor roller with a scrap of 1-inch starboard, which looks as if it may work to ensure all the mounting bolts are accessible from the anchor locker and allow full movement of the pivoting section as shown here:


What concerns/considerations should I entertain with this approach?
I assume I may need to elevate the windlass the same amount to ensure the rode remains "level" per Lewmar's installation instructions.
Perhaps I'll get a single piece of starboard large enough to cover the portion of the deck that will include both the windlass and anchor roller, with mounting bolts long enough to be secured from the anchor locker.

Am I missing anything here?
I'm open to other options, since I assume I'll want the roller to be able to pivot for its full range without hitting the nose of the boat.

Les Rohlf

[PNW_Wesley]

I have the same roller.

Remove the bolt which connects the pivoting piece to the fixed frame. Slide the pivot forward and use the hole which is just aft of where the bolt is in your photo.

[hardee]

The single starboard piece sounds like a reasonable action, and sort of acts as a reverse backing plate, (would usually have the backing plate under the foredeck), but that would still work. I would use some very large Fender washers, maybe stack a couple of sizes to spread the load.

What I did with mine was to drill the upper, pivoting piece, with new holes, half way between the existing holes. That was enough to get it to pivot when I released the windlass pressure. Works great.



Harvey
SleepyC

[PNW_Wesley]

I installed my roller in the same manner that Joe did with Sea Wolf, and there is plenty of clearance between the bow and anchor.

Here is Joe's installation:




Here is mine:



Les - Just moving the pivot to a different existing hole may work with yours.

My roller may not be "level" as Lewmar envisioned, but it works perfectly.

My windlass was already installed before I added the new roller, and there are 3 studs holding the windlass to the deck. I put a 1/4" aluminum plate below the deck. The forward end of the plate is below the roller, and the aft end of the plate catches the forward stud of the windlass. When the anchor chain gets pulled tight as the anchor comes to rest in the roller, the plate helps to absorb the shock.

[smckean (Tosca)]

Allow me to ask a dumb question ......

I didn't know such a thing as a pivoting anchor roller even existed. What's the advantage of having such a roller?

[PNW_Wesley]

[smckean (Tosca)]

PNW_Wesley,

Thanks for the explanation. I like the idea, but given the way I normally anchor, I don't think it would buy me enough, or rather often enough, to justify the expense.

It used to bother me to have to go up on the foredeck to push the anchor that few inches it took for it to fall on its own. Then one day I discovered that if I used the windlass to give out 3 or 4" of chain before I arrived at the anchorage, 9 times out of 10 the boat would hit a small wave and the anchor would drop by itself that 3 or 4"......not enough to hang down or even leave the roller unit, but enough so that it deployed itself when I finally released the chain with the windlass switch when I reached the deployment point. Voila....no more having to go to the foredeck .

P.S. In that 1 case out of 10 when the anchor doesn't take the 3 or 4" on its own, I shove the boat into reverse while I am still going forward a couple MPH as I approach the anchor drop point -- that lurches the boat slightly and the anchor nearly always takes up the 3 or 4" of chain needed for the anchor to self-deploy once I decide to do so. (This can be done while reversing too, but that's a bit trickier.)

[thataway]

Les

The roller on my 25 is in the next hole back, but also you may want to check the clearance of the pivoted arm to clean the bow and the tip of the anchor to clear the hull. I have a piece of SS over the bow to prevent "dings". My roller base appears to be further forward than yours. You don't want the roller hitting the fiberglass.

As long as the lead of the chain to the windlass, being up a few degrees will make little difference. Do put a good backing plate, especially if you use a spacer of Starboard--there can be an increased leverage on those bolts and under the deck.

[LesR]

Thanks very much to all of you who replied with and described your similar setups. My primary concern (as Bob warned) is positioning it so that the pivoting section does not smack the gelcoat on the bow every time the anchor is deployed.

The hole selected for the pivoting section does not change whether or not it hits the bow, though selecting the aft set of holes (which moves the anchor and CG forward) will certainly lower risk of damage from the anchor itself. Once everything is installed, I'll try both holes with a couple different anchors to determine which setting (or one in-between) gives the best combination of controlled release and separation from the bow.

I'm going to order a piece of starboard that will support both the windlass and anchor roller, along with a backing plate below to keep all the components and stresses within a single unit. Elevating the mounting plate will ensure the forward-most bolt extends into the anchor locker.

I've seen recommendations for either grinding and fairing the non-skid or adding fairing to ensure a flat area and properly seal the windlass. For those that have done so, what tool(s) work best to grind down the nonskid?

Les Rohlf

[hardee]

I wouldn't grind it, I would use a generous layer of bedding tape. That will fill the nonskid, stick like crazy and is removable if/when.

Harvey
SleepyC

[thataway]

I have ground down the non skid on the ones I have installed-just the peaks. I use a 4 1/2" Milwaukee Angle grinder and for the fine work a Dremel or Rotozip, with flexible shaft.

[Mike S]

LesR,

I think you might have something like this in mind? More photos in my album.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album2818&id=13_mounted&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

[LesR]

Mike,
Yes, that's essentially what I'm planning.
Will post my setup once finished.

Les

[LesR]

We completed bolting down the Windlass and bow roller yesterday. I used a single piece of one-inch starboard, along with a single piece of quarter-inch aluminum for a backing plate. The setup allows the forward bolt on the bow roller to be just accessible at the front end of the anchor locker, while allowing full range of the bow roller without hitting the top of the bow.
More photos in the album.



Thanks for everyone's suggestions and recommendations!

Les Rohlf

[thataway]

Nice solution. Looks good. Thanks for sharing.