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One bolt is leaking. Advice sought.
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Robert H. Wilkinson



Joined: 26 Jan 2011
Posts: 1277
City/Region: Port Ryerse
State or Province: ON
Vessel Name: Romakeme IV
Photos: Romakeme IV
PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leaks are not just a problem with old boats. My boat(not a Cdory) had leaks from new. Bow rail, deck hatch, and under the windshield. For warranty the dealer offered me a tube of silicon and told me to just put a bead around the offending areas on the outside. Shocked Yes sir, that's exactly why I traded in an old boat and put a mortgage on my house to buy a new boat from you! Rolling Eyes I removed the bow rails, windshield, hatch and re bedded them myself.

Not sure if it was mentioned on this thread yet but when drilling the chamfer it is best to run the drill in reverse. Some people also recommend a layer of masking tape over the area to be drilled. This helps prevent cracking the gel coat.

Chucko - if by "plugs" you mean the caps that cover the ends of the bolts that protrude below the cuddy headliner, you can buy them from most reputable hardware stores. They come in various sizes to fit different bolts. Mine were held on with a bit of adhesive, so most were damaged removing them. Not a big expense and yes they do make it look original again as well as offering a bit of protection to your head if you hit them.

Regards, Rob

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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4673
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd have to agree with san juanderer and Dr Bob...PIA as it is, do it right, the first time, one time, and it will last forever.

I have to pull our windlass to back cut/full the hause pipe; it was just sealed w/ a white sealant from the factory or whoever installed it. Will it be "easy"? No. Do I look "forward" to it? No. But it has to be done.

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 21507
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chucko wrote:
Can someone weigh in with the type and size of replacement screws to buy?
Looks like I popped a few lately. Also what do you replace the plugs with in the interior so it looks factory ,or do you?


This thread is about the bolts which hold the circular base of the bow rail in place. I have seen both 10 x 24 and 12 x 24 round phillips head machine screws used in this application. It would be unusual to break these.

On the underside, I have done several different things. One is to put a SS rubber lined clip, and hang hammocks for clothes, or "sheet bags" modified to hold items right against the hull. (Book, Kindle, Flashlight, gun, ammo, etc). This requires a washer and second nut. (Usually an acorn nut).

I have cut them off flush with the nut, or I have cut them with about 1/8" showing (both with Dremel tool cut off wheel), and put an acorn nut on the end of the screw which was protruding.

Maybe you are referring to the pop rivets which hold the SS railing, with vinyl insert over the hull to deck joint. That has been replaced by SS pop rivets; I would use 3/16", x5/16" (as I recollect, you may get by with 1/4"--check the depth with a gauge). You can also use flat head machine screw and counter sunk. I would start with 1/2". The factory put either some bedding compound, or epoxy on the inside, and then gelcoat/painted over it.

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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
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chucko



Joined: 12 Jul 2011
Posts: 168
City/Region: Davidson
State or Province: NC
C-Dory Year: 1997
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Angel
Photos: Sea Angel
PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes Bob ,I confused bow rail with rub rail. I have a few popped rivets but worried about removing redoing the whole rail. There shouldn't be any coring in this area is there?? I have seen no leaks and just gathering info as to what to do next.Again this is the RUB RAIL.thanks as always for any input.
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1997 22 cruiser, sold may 2023
1998 17 Aquasport Osprey cc sold sold 2012
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Sunbeam



Joined: 23 Feb 2012
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C-Dory Year: 2002
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

chucko,

Not that Thataway would not give you great advice (as I know he would), but there are a few good threads on this already. I consulted a few before I did my rub rail, and then also made a thread for what I did. That is here, around 1/3 of the way down the page:

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?p=267126

The previous threads (which were super helpful - I was so glad that folks before me had written it up) can be found by searching "rub rail."

On the inner "caps," they are just blobs of caulk (polysulfide in my case) that were sprayed over with gelcoat. As you'll see in the thread, there are a couple of options for how to handle the repair.
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chucko



Joined: 12 Jul 2011
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City/Region: Davidson
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C-Dory Year: 1997
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Angel
Photos: Sea Angel
PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks sunbeam ,that's what I needed ,what did you make your hole punch out of to remove the blobs?
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Sunbeam



Joined: 23 Feb 2012
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hole punch (which I used initially to cut through the blobs) is a boughten punch that is for a #2 grommet (Sailrite, etc.).

However, ultimately I decided that it would be better to completely remove the blobs, in which case I might not have needed the punch. Still it's probably useful to cut through them as a part of removing the rivet, and it does make a relatively neat hole (however the gelcoat is prone to chipping since it is over soft caulk).
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