Best idea under $20

MOOSE · Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2005 1:15 pm Post subject:

I think tapping in under the engine cover would be the cleanest way to go, if in fact it can be done on a Honda. I mentioned this idea to my mechanically-inclined neighbor this morning and when we get some time, he promised to help me look for an appropriate spot. I wouldn't think it would matter how much water one stole from the hot side of the loop since it's already done its job in cooling and is then just waste heat.
Again, this is brilliant!!!
Al

Redƒox · Guest

C-WEED · Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2005 2:56 pm Post subject:

If you read the link B~C posted on pg 1 all the way (it goes 3 pages) they talk about Hondas being shipped with a very cool thermostate to prevent overheating in the hot regions. Since they don't know where an engine will end up. The colder climate folks drop in a hotter thermostate. Not only for hot water for hand washing while fishing but to prevent fuel blow-by past the piston rings. One pic on a Honda kicker shows 120*F. I don't know how hot the water will get as I have just played with it in the yard and not launched since making the hose. But the water temps here are very warm. Don't have a maintenance manual and can't say what temp thermostat the yamahas ship with. Anybody else know?

Sea Wolf · Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2005 3:50 pm Post subject:

Don-

One could easily design and build a simple heat exchanger and transfer the heat from the salt water to fresh water drawn from the fresh water tank. All you'd have to do is place two copper tubes next to each other, embed them in lead (or some other suitable heat transfer material) inside of a larger pipe, then surround this with heat insulation material.

My older Cruiser ('(87) has an electric pump on the fresh water supply rather than the foot pump, which would power the fresh water side easily. This type of pump is about $25 and available at any chandlery.

The tube at the side of the motor where it leads to the flush fitting could be tapped into with a "T" and a valve to provide a permanent tap. Lead this to the heat exchanger and provide an exit tube for the waste water. The system could be designed with a couple of extra valves to allow showering with the engine water and rinsing with tank water.

Don't forget to turn on the bilge pump! Soap anyone? Joe.

wailedcentipede · Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2005 7:03 pm Post subject:

could be handy on a boat??? got caught 50-60 miles in the bush used "liquid metal" out of a tube to repair gas tank .... as a rule things in small tubes glue, and the like, only work once than the lid never comes off or dosn't work to well at all .... this patch lasted for years ... let the patch cure for a few days before replaceing tank .... wc

Sea Wolf · Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2005 7:39 pm Post subject:

Whoops! Almost forgot!!! Coed Class in Navy Showers will be held at 19:00 hours on the aft deck. Bring beer! Your Captain.

dogon dory · Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2005 11:44 pm Post subject:

Sorry, Folks - Post Deleted By Author

Sea Wolf · Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2005 4:02 am Post subject:

Dan- Just responding to Don's comment about the "limitation" of using the hot water source when in salt water, and having some C-Brat style fun in doing so! Actually, the idea presented wouldn't cost a great deal, probably under $50, and maybe a lot less if you keep a "boat and home builders/experimenters supply" of fabricating materials like I do, to build things out of.

I save all kinds of usable stuff from which to make things without making a trip down to the local hardware store to see how little they have from which to build things. One of the things I miss the most about living in Redding instead of the S.F. Bay Area, is the lack of electronic and industrial surplus stores from which to shop and acquire useful fabrication goodies.

I'll bet you folks in Alaska intuitively understand and practice this "supply side" part the process of to keeping one's home, boat, car, motorhome, snowmobile, and whatever else repaired and working. Joe.

C-WEED · Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2005 11:03 pm Post subject:

Problem is: Between my two big hounds runnin over my engine control cables, the southern sun's UV rays cookin'em and them black cables leavin nice black scuff marks in the well all the time.

For a few dollars I got 4ft of way to heavy duty water jet tubing for a jacuzzi. This stuff is way too tuff. I had to use a sawzall to slit it open. Then it was all I could do to pry it open just enough to slip all inside with two big pry bars and not lose a finger. This stuff is crush proof. If I didn't use the same fuel line for the kicker I'd put it inside too.

To do over, I would recommend the nice blue stuff for swimming pool vacuumes. Much more flexable. If I did the photo right you might see it here. If not it's on page three.

C-WEED · Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 12:01 am Post subject: Fender support

On Tandems: Climbing over the side for the thousandth time can put a strain on the fender. Put a wedge of wood under the fender for added support when parked in the yard. Once a fender gets just a little loose, they really vibrate at high speeds. The vibe usually eats up tail light filaments, too.

Sea Wolf · Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 7:22 am Post subject:

Chris-

I've noticed the same problem and have had to have one side welded back up.

My solution was to run a 2" galvanized fence post accross the top of the fender and attach it with U-bolts to the fender in the middle (at three points) and on the ends to the vertical posts of the guide-ons. Use fence post end caps on the ends to dress it up and cover the sharp corners on the tubes. Then jump up and down on the fenders all you want. Bulletproof to over 300-400 lbs with galvanized steel fenders. Joe.

C-WEED · Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 11:48 am Post subject:

Hi Joe,
My rig came with a tweaked fender from previouse owners. I had to remove the fender and put a few wrestlin moves on it to twist/flex it way back past the normal shape. When let go it would relax back to normal. While not quite perfect it is hangin in there. It is only a matter of time before a heavy duty fix such as yours will be needed.

C-WEED · Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:16 am Post subject: Fire Extinguisher mount

Sorry about the lighting: But if you remove the lower screw to the starboard outside grab rail, insert it thru the extinguisher center mount hole and re-install you have a very cheap mount with no new holes. I tried this on the port side but a slight curve in the cabin glass kept it from fitting. You might need to slightly enlarge the center hole.

Sea Wolf · Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 11:09 am Post subject:

(I'm adding this here as it came up in another discussion, but actually fits right into this thread.)

Getting into the boat from a dock with the stock set up ordinarily requires steping from the dock to the gunnel, then turning around and steping down backward onto the built-in step on the side of the hull, then onto the the hull floor, all the while holding onto the handrail at the side of the cabin and switching hands, very difficult to do while carrying things onboard.

I added a two-step plastic stool and a single horizontally mounted handle on either side of the rear facing lamp on the back of the cabin just below the roof and above the door to assist in getting in and out of the boat, as this set up allows you to step directly off the dock, over the gunnel, and onto the stool and directly into the cockpit. No hand switching or turning around required. The rails are about $15 each, and the stool about $8.

Those two handrails and the plastic Cosco two-step stool are more useful than some of the $500 additions I've made to the boat and save my knees and back a lot of grief and, at the same time, make boating more fun and allow for longer stays on the water. The stool also works as a make-shift seat once underway.

I also added a couple of smaller handholds (about $10 each) on the transom and in the engine well to assist in getting back into the boat when using the emergency fold down ladder at the port side of the transom. Sometimes the most valuable boat additions are the simplest and cheapest!!! Joe.

Bess-C · Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2005 9:24 pm Post subject:

Just before we left on the Desolation Sound trip we added two small additions that really increased our sense of control and handling of our 25. I owe both of them to Shelley, as they were her idea. David on Anna Leigh has a level at the helm of his boat and Shelley thought that it would be a really good idea for getting the boat balanced out with the trim tabs. What a revelation it was to add the level. It became second nature to check it and level out the boat almost without thinking about it.

The second addition was a steering knob. It wasn't one of the fancy $100 boat accessories, but a tractor steering knob from the local John Deere dealer. I don't know how I lived without it on the boat when docking in close quarters. I was able to react so much faster that all dockings were made easier. Best small changes that I've made to the boat to date.
Lyle