Leaky Fishboxes. Grrrr!

[Mike...]

Charlie's thread, which is essentially about gaining more access into the TomCat's bilge, got me back on to my one pet peeve with the TomCat.

As some of you may have noticed, I never miss an opportunity to grumble about those damn leaky fish boxes.

In the past I have threatened to remove them, and I was really not kidding. I don't fish, and they are not usable for storage for things that need to stay dry. If I could find similarly sized watertight hatch covers that could withstand all the weight and traffic across them, I would do that. Then, it would be really easy to get down in to the bilge and clean it out, replace pumps, etc.

I get the point that the boxes are below the waterline, so finding a good sturdy watertight hatch would be critical. And I don't even know if such a thing exists - at least in that size.

What do you think TomCat owners? Is this even possible?

Or have I just had too much coffee this morning?
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mike

[Matt Gurnsey]

I'm leaning toward too much coffee, but it's been awhile since I've looked at the Tomcat hatch set up, so I wonder if there is a way to seal what's there effectively.

[matt_unique]

Well my research has concluded it is possible to seal them (i.e. tighter hatch cover, more aggressive sealing around lip, etc.) but most have not bothered.

I have plenty of things I can store down there that I don't mind getting wet including fenders, diving lead, 3-step ladder, etc. The Tomcat has so much room for dry storage I don't come close to capacity.

One Tomcat owner (sorry I don't recall who at the moment) cut a hole in the bottom of the fishboxes to let them drain to the bilge where they would empty automatically.

If I ran out of room for needed dry storage I would address it.

[Mike...]

Marc, I am totally willing to concede that I am too cranked up on coffee today. Time to switch to single malt, maybe.

Captain Matt, do you know of anyone who has been successful in making them waterproof? I'd love to know how it was done. I am not crazy about putting a hole in the boxes because they are below the water line, which could make the cockpit less self-bailing.

Of course the other issue is getting into the bilge for cleaning, replacing pumps, etc. The round access hatches that Roger did would help, but they only make access somewhat easier. Wouldn't it be nice if you could stick you head down in there?
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mike

[Dreamer]

Mike,

My fish boxes stay dry now. One key is drilling two 3/8" holes in the gutter around the box. Water from the deck drains into the bilge rather than overcoming the seal on the box lid. My macerator pumps froze up (literally) long ago so i just disconnected the hoses at the fish box sump. Any water that might get in from wash down drains out into the bilge also.



The best addition for a dry bilge and fishboxes was the camper canvas! A good spot to enjoy coffee or single malt!

[Beflyguy]

I too have been frustrated about gallons of water in the fishboxes. I decided that the culprit was three things.

1. The channels around the fishboxes are the first things to fill with water.
2. The original seals were not positioned correctly.
3. As you step on the lids, they move down, then back up creating a nice pump that sucks water out of the channels into the boxes.

I devised a four stage plan.

1. Install drains at the aft end of the fishbox channels that drain into the cockpit drain fittings. While I was at it I installed drains in the port and starboard aft corners of the battery access opening since it was constantly allowing water into the battery tray.
2. Install new seals that are positioned correctly.
3. Install rubber bumpers that keep the fishbox lids from moving when stepped on.
4. Install vents into the bilge so that air will circulate through the fishboxes.

So far it seems to be working pretty well although depending on how the boat is trimmed or how it is sitting on the trailer, the fishbox channels are barely above the waterline or are not tilted so the aft end is above the forward so some water remains in the channel. I have connected the port and starboard drains with a hard line so that if there was a list to either side the collected water would drain out the other side. So far the boxes have a trace of water in them after a thorough washing of the boat.

Here are some photos:

I drilled 5/8" holes in the corners of the channels, tapped them for 3/8" pipe fittings and installed 90 deg fittings with a 1/2" hose barb. I used hot glue to cover the holes with a nylon mesh so rocks, crab parts etc, would not plug the holes.


The installation of the fittings was no fun because of the insulation around the fishboxes and the limited access.


At the cockpit drain through hull fittings, I drilled and tapped for the same 3/8" pipe fittings.


The Battery access opening was easier to reach.


Good view of drain fitting.


Pipe used to connect port and starboard drains.


I don't have photos but for the vents into the bilge, I decided I wanted something I could close if I wanted to fill the boxes with fish, ice or the like so I installed plastic deck fills just under the lid catch.

[Captains Cat]

Brian, a 4th source of water is a faulty check valve at the overboard. My boxes are frequently just about full of water and the overboard is at or below the waterline. Have not pulled the check valve to look at it, I plan to raise the overboard for both that outlet and the bilge pump about a foot so it's well above the waterline. Someone else with a TC has done that and there are pix in his album.

Charlie

[Dreamer]

Charlie,

The factory redid mine in 2006.


If you have lots of batteries back there and frequently entertain 3-4 folks for Happy Hour, water will come past the flapper valve for the scuppers. 1.75" sink stoppers work well inside the cockpit to cure that.

Roger

[Mike...]

[Mike...]

[Beflyguy]

[Dreamer]

Mike,

That's the new and improved location. Here's where they were originally, and Charlie's right, they used to back fill the bilge through the bilge pump.

[Captains Cat]

That must be roughly equivalent to what our TC255's use for the shower drain and, I think, where the water heater drains when you open that drain valve. Mine seems to function fine, which is good because it'd be hard to get to under the access that's under the sink/Wallas cabinet.

Used for a fishbox, other accessory drain aft however, it just adds another electrical device/pump to the bilge pumps, macerator pumps etc that are already there. I think I'd prefer to raise the overboards for the bilge pump and macerator pump as Roger (aka the Factory) did on Dreamer. That, combines with the small drains in the fishbox channels should take care of the wet fishbox problems. I need to make my access ports bigger first so that I can get to the stuff back there.

Charlie

[Beflyguy]

[Captains Cat]

Yup, I agree. Different situation here, my boat sits on a lift or on the trailer unless we're using it. That's when my fishboxes fill up, hence raising the overboard.