Winterizing Ideas// C-Dory's lessons learned

N

New Hampshire Guy

New member
Was wondering if the more experienced owners would care to take a moment and share any lessons learned (like CHICA so generously did) with winterizing your C-Dory (don't forget to mention size!).
Would especially like to hear from the 22 and 25 owners and any tricks with the water/hotwater systems, but any ideas that could save the rest of us would be appreciated. Not so interested in the engine winterizing, which is universal to the outboard world, but any C-Dory issues.
THANKS
AND
GO BRATS!

John
 
John,
There was a discussion a few months back about the shelf life of diesel/kerosene fuel for the Wallas stove. As I recall most people felt that both diesel and kerosene had a fairly short life whereas Kleen-heat had a much longer shelf life. I have decided to dump any leftover kerosene each fall and start with fresh each spring. Other than engine and fuel related issues on the 22, the only other areas to address are to empty the water tank and porti-potty, and remove and store the batteries. In my area we have a long winter so I also remove all the electronics and store inside.
 
Hears my advice , DON'T!!!!. We got snowed on our first three trips to the san juans. I just love winter boating and fishing. There are fewer people around and you can always find a place to tie up. No waiting in line for dinner or drinks and no dam mosquitos. sure a lot of places are closed but if there closed they cant charge you for moorage can they?
 
Short shelf life on diesel and kerosene? In my experience, diesel has a longer shelf life than Gasoline. The only things to worry about with diesel is water contamination and algae/slime growth (which is usually due to water contamination). Both of these things are more of a problem on diesel boats or trucks that are stored up for winter.

If you have a large tank (as in a diesel boat or truck), I would just treat it with some diesel biocide and make sure it's topped off to limit any condensation and call it good.

With all that said, I have NO experience with the Wallas stove. It may be particular about fuel quality and not like diesel/kerosene that has been sitting around.

This is just my opinion, and is worth exactly what you paid for it. :)
 
AK-Brando,
The Wallas stove uses a small 5 liter plastic bottle as a fuel tank. The last two winters I have had about a quart left in the tank when I winterize the boat so I have just dumped it and started with fresh fuel in the spring. I have no idea if fuel stabilizers/biocides would be ok in the Wallas or not. Any one else have any experience with winter storage of a partial tank of diesel or kerosene?
 
I just have the standard water system (no electric pump, no hot water). I used to hook a piece of tubing up to the facet and let the tank syphon dry, lately I'm inclined to just remove the few screws retaining the sight tube and run it out the back to drain the tank. Pump the foot pump a few times to make sure it's dry...What ever water we need for winter boating we pack in jugs.

Make sure you have a means of providing rain free ventilation. The more fresh air you get moving around the cabin and under and around the cushions the fresher things will be later. Open the doors under the sink, prop up the dinet cushions and stick a few items under the V berth cushion. I have a solar fan in the roof, and , with my handy dandy side window visors, I can leave the side windows open about an inch with worrying about rain.
 
If all you have is a quart or so left at the end of the season, get yourself a hurricane lamp or other kerosene lamp and burn it in the house (or keep it for emergency power outages. I've had kerosene lamps for years on the shelf and they still light up and burn like new.

Just my $.02 worth.
 
In general, I agree with Tom for those of us in the Northwest. Use the boat all year - think it's better to make sure the engines run every couple of weeks.

However, in John's case, in "sunny" Meredith NH, where Lake Winnepesaukie can freeze over to a depth of 3-4 feet in winter, some real winterizing is in order. I'd recommend draining the fresh water and then pouring in a bottle of so of cheap vodka or rum as anti-freeze and pumping it a bit to get some in the line. You can never get the things completely drained and this is a nice, safe antifreeze and the after taste is OK. Also, shut-off the fuel and run the engines dry, then (if carbureted), fog the carburettors. Add stabil to fuel in the tanks. Pull the batteries and toss them on a trickle charger about once a month. If the boat is going to be buttoned up tight, put some desicant inside.

If the boat is stored inside and won't get too cold, leave the batteries in and if you have shore power and chargers, plug the shore power in. Then buy a heater and set it to come on a little above freezing - West Marine sells one for this purpose as most home space heaters don't have a thermostat that goes low enough. This is what I do for my boat in winters in Seattle. Mine's outside but we do get some below freezing weather in Jan.

Roger on the SeaDNA
 
Make sure you seal any new penetrations in your roof. Sometimes when you check for fir you want to bolt on and go and forget... don't ask me how I know this... :mrgreen:

Oh yea, and take a look every so often at teh drains for the windows.


If they have crap growing in them flush it out so the windows will drain right or the water will find it's way into the cabin.

I have also taken to pulling the plug , using a high boy jack and lifting the boat high enough that it will drain out the back. I block the boat in this position so water dosen't collect in the cockpit. When the water gets over teh door seal it travels into the cabin... again, don't ask me how
I know this :mrgreen:

If you just take the thing out fishing or cruising every couple of weeks you will be much happier and easier to be around... This you can ask me about any time :mrgreen:
 
If you have an outside hose don't forget to drain it. Speaking of outside hoses with holes in it, does any one know where I can get a new coil hose that is fitted with the quick disconnect?
 
Get all the moisture out ---to be sure :!: Take out all the cushions, to a warm dry place (such as your home) for a few days. Moisture hides just behind the skins on them cushions. The berth area is critical for this.
Never once used any fuel stabilizer. Longest boat sat once was an entire 5 months :xseek no problems at all....
 
Ok, what's the general consensus on fogging a 4-stroke. Do you do it or no? My Honda dealer told me not to do it, that the 4-strokes don't need it. But I think I read that someone fogs their 4-stroke earlier in the thread. Any consensus on this?
 
Salty Dog":wg10rtar said:
Ok, what's the general consensus on fogging a 4-stroke. Do you do it or no? My Honda dealer told me not to do it, that the 4-strokes don't need it. But I think I read that someone fogs their 4-stroke earlier in the thread. Any consensus on this?
Click to expand...

I never ever have, but thats here in my un-humid year-round climate. I don't think it matters 2 or 4-stroke, then again, I could be wrong again :roll:

:mrgreen:
 
Salty Dog,
I think the term "fogging" originally meant spraying fogging oil into the air intake on a two-stroke, while the engine was running, until the engine died. This was an attempt to get the oil down into the lower areas below the pistons. With a four stroke this area does not depend on the oil in the fuel for lubrication so this step isn't necessary. With my Hondas I change plugs each fall and while I have them out I squirt a little fogging oil in each cylinder. I doubt it is necessary but it might keep the rings from sticking or corroding during storage. I store my boat for 5-6 mo and we have a fairly cold climate with a lot of large temperature changes although with relatively low humidity.
 
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