Wheel of fortune fuel switch issue?

C

capt. meares

New member
Found out today why Sea Wolf calls it the Wheel of Fortune switch............ I put my 88 C-dory cruiser in the bay today with both tanks 1/4 full. I went to prime the fuel line and squeezed the bulb about ten times. The bulb would not get hard. I squeezed 5 more time and bulb was still empty. I decided to try starting the motor anyways. It started right up like everything was wonderful. I left it running for about 8 minutes and everything still seemed normal. Put it in reverse, backed out of the ramp area, put it in forward and the motor died. I then proceeded to again try to prime and the bulb continued to stay empty. After scratching my head for a few minutes I thought maybe someone (a kid of mine) messed with my fuel switch.

I then went round and round each position several times, not knowing which position was which, I tried priming each one, No luck with any position. I checked all the lines and cannot find any leaks or drips, never smelled any gas. The bottom line, if the bulb isn't hard, the motor isn't getting gas. Do these fuel switches go bad? Where would be the best place to start with this? Thanks, Terry
 
I suppose there could be a number of causes, but I did just have a similar problem at the ramp at Powell (putting in). In my case the switch is labeled properly (I tested it after reading about the roulette), but the valve is stiff and I plan to replace it because of that. It's the one remaining item from the original fuel system. It's stiff enough that sometimes it is hard to tell when it "clicks" into the various positions (although of course you can see the pointer too).

Anyway, so I was in the prep lane at Powell and went to pump up the bulb on my main engine and.... nothing. The bulb just felt empty (i.e. not flat like when it is sucked empty, but more like just full of air empty. Tons of pumping.... same thing. Another clue was that usually when I pump the bulb there is a little "action" I can see with the fuel that's in the clear Racor filter bowl. This time... nothing.

Tried all valve positions... no change. Tapped on bulb (in case check ball or something inside was stuck)... nothing. (I had not used the boat in a while and had run the engine dry plus drained the carbs and internal fuel filter before laying it up.)

Finally, pinching the fuel hose between the bulb and the engine did something. Fuel! I still wasn't sure what the problem was though, and thus not at all sure if it was really fixed. Tilted engine up (had tilted it down) and.... fuel started draining out from under the cowling (just a small amount, but still that is NOT normal).

As it turned out, the bowl of the internal fuel filter was loose. So that was the whole problem, and why pinching the hose "fixed" it temporarily. I then tightened the bowl properly and all was good. Launched, motor started on the first crank, and then purred like a kitten the whole time I was out. Yay!

Funny thing is that when I was looking over everything before heading to the ramp, I had the cowling off to check the oil. I almost put my hand on the fuel filter, just to be sure, but didn't (a buddy was with me last time I took out and I hadn't drained it myself, and "assumed" he had tightened it - bad move!). I guess I should have checked it - you know I will next time (although I just re-drained it and I DID tighten it back up completely).

This may not be your problem, but figured I'd mention it just in case. I'm still going to replace the valve just because it annoys me every time I turn it with how stiff/creaky it is. Just have to figure out which one will do the same job.
 
Terry,
Just replced my fuel valve as it was very hard to move and the label was not ledgeble.
The problem that you discribed was not my issue...
For detail on the valve and label plate, view the photos with remarks in my album.
 
Terry,

For some reason mine primes better on the starboard tank, maybe because it's closer to the fuel line valve. I have primed it on the trailer, dropping the fuel line off the back of the transom letting it hang down low, gravity seems to help. It also primes better on a hot day or when the bulb is warm and soft.

Kevin
 
I would replace the fuel bulb if it's more than 5 years old. You can pull the fuel line off the engine and send some compressed air down the fuel line while trying different positions on the fuel selector switch. When you have air coming out the corresponding fuel vent you can mark the position on the fuel selector switch decal. I would not think the fuel selector switch would go bad but maybe get stiff. Maybe think about changing fuel lines if they are not rated for the ethanol poison the feds put in our gas. If you have an inline fuel filter you might want to change that. If you don't have a fuel filter I would add one. JMHO
D.D.
 
I would replace the fuel bulb if it's more than 5 years old. You can pull the fuel line off the engine and send some compressed air down the fuel line while trying different positions on the fuel selector switch. When you have air coming out the corresponding fuel vent you can mark the position on the fuel selector switch decal. I would not think the fuel selector switch would go bad but maybe get stiff. Maybe think about changing fuel lines if they are not rated for the ethanol poison the feds put in our gas. If you have an inline fuel filter you might want to change that. If you don't have a fuel filter I would add one. JMHO
D.D.
 
Thank you all for the help. After inspecting the fuel filter I will be changing out to all fuel lines, bulb, and water fuel separator. All things I planned to do in the near future anyways.
 
Steve,
Did you have the label plate custom made ?
When I looked at a new valve I was told that they didn't come with a label plate anymore.

Thank You

Bill Kelleher


srbaum":2igenme8 said:
Terry,
Just replced my fuel valve as it was very hard to move and the label was not ledgeble.
The problem that you discribed was not my issue...
For detail on the valve and label plate, view the photos with remarks in my album.
Click to expand...
 
No, it is the original label plate, barely readable. I think it is working ok. I will figure out which position is going to which tank and label it more clearly.

Thanks again.
 
Bill Kelleher,
You may have already seen my photos and notes about this in my photo album.
I had the label plate made at a local trophy shop. The folks that make the valve do not make a stick on label, like the one on the boat (I did ask the OEM valve company). The engraved plate cost about $15...
Something that I did not mention in my photo note is that I had to cut the old fuel valve handle off with a hacksaw, as the screw in the handle could not be removed.
 
srbaum,

Do you have a part number or information on the new valve? (I looked in your album but didn't see it.) I could probably figure it out from scratch, but on the other hand, a known good part number would be great :thup

That valve is the only remaining part of my original fuel system, and I would like to replace it as it is stiff and hard to operate. The original label is still fine; it's just the actual valve when turning to select that is the problem.

Thanks,
Sunbeam
 
Sunbeam,
In my photo album, I have left notes below each photo to provide details.
The fuel valve was West Marine # 14605331.
 
Oh geez, somehow I don't see the note when I look in your album :oops: (where you show the new fuel label etc.)

Thanks for the information - very helpful. I'm going to look that valve up online right now.
 
Sunbeam,
West Marine has 2 valves that look identical and the materials inside and out appear to be exactly the same. My old valve was made Moeller and it has a brass valve body, a handle made of high quality pot metal (just kidding, but that does seem to be what it is made from) and to top it off, it has an uncoated STEEL screw, just to ensure that you will never have a chance in hell of removing it the handle. The West Marine brand valve is $30 and the Sierra brand valve is $12. West Marine does not have the Sierra valve on the shelf, but they shipped it to my house for free... The Sierra valve does have a stainless steel screw for mounting the handle.
I'm nuts about dissimilar metals, so I put Tuf-Gel on most every fastener for all of my home and boating applications. The only time I do not use Tuf-Gel is when the fastener is part of an electrical bond, such as zinc anode fasteners.
 
Thanks for the additional info on the various choices. I'm with you on isolating dissimilar metals (I often use Tef-Gel).

I did look it up on WM, and then in a couple of other places (since WM mentioned 2-3 weeks, I thought I'd check options). I saw the Sierra and the Moeller. I then realized I need to check to see what size FPT I want the valve to have. Looks like yours is 1/4", so that's probably what mine is too, but I might as well look. I remember that is what goes into/out of the Racor (1/4"), and then I believe my fuel lines are 5/16" (but... will check). Perhaps I can re-use the PTH fittings from my current valve.

At least now I know what I'm looking for - thanks!
 
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