V-Berth Mods to 16 Cruiser

[Robbi]

For those of you with 16 Cruisers, you know there is a huge area for storage under the V-Berth, but, it is a pain to get to. I store some things under the berth now, and I find myself on my hands and knees at least once a day grumbling about access. Plus, the v-berth is covered in "stuff", and I don't have room to sit or lay down without moving everything around. It would be nice to have the "stuff" stored and out of the way, but with easy access. I'm thinking of adding large flush mounted hatches, (maybe two or three) so I can use the storage area and clean up the berth.
Has anyone done this on a 16?

Right now I am thinking of removing the v-berth sleeping cushion, either buying hatches, or making hinged "lids" from the cut outs. I would put down a carpet with cut outs for the access lids. I would sleep on a large Thermarest that can be rolled up and stored out of the way. (I have used this many times and it is very comfortable).

If two people were to cruise, I could put the v-berth cushion back in. I could even get the cushion split down the middle like I did in the 19 so it is easier to get to the hatches.

I'm in the thinking stage now. Any ideas or experience with such a project on a 16 Cruiser?

Thanks

Robbi

 

[neblig]

Robbi
I have two flush mount hatches from the back of the 19 (if you remember them?). They need some cleaning, but they are yours if you want them.
Rob

 

[Robbi]

Thanks Rob. I would like them. I can pick them up sometime when I am out your way.

Very nice of you.

Robbi

 

[Sunbeam]

...I am thinking of removing the v-berth sleeping cushion, either buying hatches, or making hinged "lids" from the cut outs. I would put down a carpet with cut outs for the access lids.

This is not 16 specific, but just a comment after using many "under cushion" hatches over the years. You may or may not end up feeling the same way. Anyway, so, one of the things with a stowage compartment that's under a cushion is that you have to either remove or "burrow under" the cushion. Sometimes burrowing under is a good option -- like if the berth has stuff on it and you only need to grab or stow one thing. Or maybe sometimes you just prop the cushion up a little bit.

On boats I've had, the under-cushion stowage lids are not hinged, but are just flat panels (oftentimes the cutouts, but not always) that rest on a rim beneath, so they fit flush. This is not only nice for comfort above, but means that you don't have any lid to hold up while you are burrowing. You can simply slide the lid off to the side (under this or another cushion), and "go shopping." With a hinged lid I imagine you more often would have or want to remove the whole cushion to somewhere. Even if you only want to open it partway, there often isn't a good way to hold a hinged lid open with the cushion above it.

If you do go with flush lids, you can glue cleats (or a plywood "ring") to the underside of the hatch hole to support the lid. You might decide you prefer hinged lids, but just something to consider.

Sunbeam

 

[Sunbeam]

I have two flush mount hatches from the back of the 19 (if you remember them?).

Presuming these are a pre-made hatch, do they actually sit flush like the old fashioned flush wooden hatches? If so, I'd like to know the brand/model, as that would be a handy option at times. (Or are they just called "flush mount" but they actually stick up like the typical hatches we have on the C-Dorys?)

Thanks,
Sunbeam

 

[Robbi]

Sunbeam,
These are the vertical mount hatches that many of us replaced with the more waterproof horizontal hatches on the 19's and 22's lazarettes. They are not totally flush, but have an elevation of about 1/4 of an inch. These are the same as the hatches that 19 and some 22's have in the v-berths.

I agree that the unhinged cutouts would probably work the best and would be much less expensive. I'm not planning on using the v-berth cushion so no digging will be required to access storage area.

Thanks

Robbi

 

[Sunbeam]

I'm not planning on using the v-berth cushion so no digging will be required to access storage area.

Thanks for the info on the hatches. I can see where if you are not planning to use the berth cushions that the hinged/lids would work well and have advantages.

 

[dotnmarty]

These are all great ideas for making the space under the bunk usable and accessible. I particularly like cutting the cushion in half and having a lift off hatch in the base. . On our cruiser we used plastic milk cartons stuffed under there and pulled them out with a boat pole. It worked but not as good as what is suggested here. One storage item I would do on a cruiser is put a shelf up above the helm like the one on the 22. It would work on the cruiser because of the set-back compared to an angler. I hope you'll post pictures of your renovations.

 

[DaveS]

Robbi,
Good morning Robbi. When we had our 16' Cruiser we used rubbermaid tote boxes with lids for storage. Other than having to get on my knees to drag them out (the one that ended up way up towards the bow, I used the boat hook to drag it out), they worked fairly well. On occasion, if water got into the cockpit, the water would find it's way up to the bow. In those instances having the rubbermaid totes, kept the contents totally dry. The other advantage to the totes, was the ability to totally remove them and their contents from the boat if they contained items not needed for a particular cruise. If my memory serves me correctly, we had 3 tote boxes stored there. One smaller one towards the bow and two larger ones aft of that one. I always had "stuff" on the berth that would have made using hatches way to inconvenient for me.

 

[lloyds]

When we had our 16 I built some "L" shaped rails and screwed them onto the bottom of the bunk and then slid the rubbermaid boxes into them. When you needed something out of them you just slid them out. Had a pin in the side of the "L" to keep them from sliding out.

 

[Robbi]

Thanks all for the great ideas, but I must say, you are making me feel like the old lady that I am! Ha. Well, not really. The process of pulling containers out from under the berth is just as much about what you do with the one or two containers that come out before you get to the one you want, as it is about trying to maneuver in a tight place. This is especially true during the winter when the drop curtain is in place, and there is precious little space to work with.

As far as removing the berth foam cushion, and carpeting the berth, this I see as having a number of advantages. One is less trapped moisture, again during the wet winter months. Also, it will make it much easier and safer to deploy and retrieve the anchor through the forward hatch. The 4 inches of cushion make for a tight squeeze. I may do this many times during a day of fishing. Much safer and faster than walking around the cabin.

I would use a carpet much like what you would find on the deck of Lund aluminum boats and other 16 to 20 foot flush decked fishing boats. Plus, I would use plastic containers to protect contents from any water that might find its way up under the berth. With an access hatch, I could remove the one item that I am after, and not the entire container.

I keep my boat in the water year round and use it often. I have been out 3 of the last 4 days, cruising, fishing and recording and taking photos of marine mammals. I admit, I'm a boat nut!

After all of this, I must say that I truly believe function is a very personal thing. What works for me may be extremely unworkable for someone else. That's one reason the wood interiors are so popular with some owners of 22's and 25's. That's why some have cut the v-berth entry open, why some have not. Heck, that's why Oldgrowth cut his boat in half!
:lol:

I love the flow of ideas in the Pub.

Robbi

 

[R-Matey]

Robbi,
Should you need more than the two hatches that Rob removed from the 19CD, they can be found online under the following: TEMPRESS Access Slam Hatches. There's several sizes but the ones we purchased through LFS were approximately 11" x 15". The cost now is about $55 each. Joe built storage lockers for outside in the cockpit and installed these hatches. We also used these storage lockers as steps to get on and off the boat. The Tempress hatches will hold the weight of most folks and they never leaked, in the 6 1/2 years we had the 19CD.
Ruth and Joe, C-Brats #22,
R-MATEY

 

[DaveS]

Robbi,
Should you need more than the two hatches that Rob removed from the 19CD, they can be found online under the following: TEMPRESS Access Slam Hatches.
Ruth and Joe, C-Brats #22,
R-MATEY

When I first read this I erroneously threw a "T" in TEMPRESS and said TEMPTRESS...it certainly became rather provacative.... :lol:

 

[Robbi]

Thanks Ruth and Joe. That was nice of you. I am leaning towards not putting in hatches, but cutting out access areas and using the cut outs as lids.
Now I am working on a way to secure the carpeting without using carpet adhesive. I'm going to check out the Taylor made Custom Snap In Templet Kit. Sounds expensive, but it would be pretty cool.

Dave, What can I say about your eye sight? :lol:

Robbi

 

[Sunbeam]

Now I am working on a way to secure the carpeting without using carpet adhesive.

Snads™ might be an option. They are basically good-old snaps except that you can get either part (male or female) that attaches with a backing of VHB tape (that comes as part of the unit).

The rigid ones are all molded plastic (no metal) and come in socket or stud form; then there are flexible backed ones (you can put them on stanchion rails or other irregular surfaces) that have stainless steel snap studs on a flexible, VHB'ed base.

My boat came when new with custom-fitted carpet sections on the cabin sole, and they were attached with traditional (screwed-in) snap studs. I have removed those and filled the holes - I'm not sure if I will put any snaps back (not sure the carpet needs to be held down), but if I do I will use Snads.

Even if you don't need the flexibility of the flexible back, they do have a slightly more traditional look and the base is a hair smaller in diameter, so one might choose them for some projects just for that. Here are photos and a link to Sailrite where they can be purchased.

Rigid , 40mm diameter Snad, comes in either stud or socket (also other colors):



Conformable, 25mm Snad stud (other colors available):



http://search.sailrite.com/?freeText=snad

Sunbeam :hot

 

[Robbi]

Thanks! I watched the video, and these are very interesting. I can think of many uses for these on board. Anyone have experience using these snap products?

Robbi

 

[Sunbeam]

I haven't used any yet, but I did order one of the rigid, 40mm Snads in white, just to have it in hand to "mull over."

My feeling is that they could be very useful at times - probably especially the conformable ones as you can suddenly mount snaps on things like stanchion tubes.

I ordered the larger, all-plastic white one to see how the color would match the C-Dory and to consider using them for mounting a camperback to the topsides. After seeing them in person, I'm mixed on that idea. On the one had, I like that they can't corrode (that always bugs me about stainless); but on the other hand they are large visually (but they are white and not "dark metal" so there is that). It's nice that there is no hole, but then you have adhesive to remove if you ever want to (I have not tried that yet), and repairing a small hole is not that hard.

On balance, I can imagine a lot of great uses for them, but I think for some applications I would still choose "traditional" ones. Just depends. If I re-install snap studs for the carpet panels in my cabin, I think I'll use the conformable Snads. Partially because the sole is not 100% flat and smooth (but I could make it so), but more because the placement of the the existing snap sockets in the carpet pieces, the 25mm conformable studs would be completely hidden under it, whereas the 40mm rigid ones would run past the edges (of course if you are working from new carpet, you could mount the snaps further in from the edges and use the rigid ones).