Trailer Question 2
- Thread starter Valkyrie
- Start date
I would go with rollers although I admit I have no experienc with bunks. However, it seems clear to me that rollers will allow one to launch and retrieve more easily in situations in which you can't get the trailer in really deep. Also, without modification most bunks will not allow easy launch from a sling. The sling in Edmonds WA charges extra to launch from a trailer with bunks.
Roger on the SeaDNA
Roger on the SeaDNA
I've always had bunks and the present one has sling slots in it "just in case". The roller/bunk debate periodically rages on boating sites with little consensus beyond maybe rollers being more common on the right coast and bunks on the left, as far as I can see.
Normally I launch and recover by myself, and single handing with rollers just doesn't seem safe or easy. If I always had a second person available it would be different methinks.
How do you "roller guys" solo launch a C-Dory at ramps where one has to motor over to the dock?
Normally I launch and recover by myself, and single handing with rollers just doesn't seem safe or easy. If I always had a second person available it would be different methinks.
How do you "roller guys" solo launch a C-Dory at ramps where one has to motor over to the dock?
starcrafttom
Active member
bunks allow the boat to sit lower on the trailer and i like that a lot. you can get sling launches to hook up to bunk trailers as long as the trailer is set up right. small breakes in the bunks where the straps will go is the key. not a standered set up but severel out fits have done it. if you have a sling operator who knows what the hell their doing its not a problen with a standered bunk. the guys at edmonds have launched my old boat off the bunk trailer several times. but a few years a go some one dropped and damaged a boat so management said no more bunks.
I dont like rollers for several reasons. 1. they sit to high 2. I have seen no less then 3 morons drop their boats on the ramp because they unhooked the tie down strap from the boat at the top of the ramp instead of after the boat was in the water. or forgot to hook it up when pulling the boat out. 3. i like to motor up on to the trailer and a roller trailer will allow the boat to slide off again. i hate that. 4. they sit to high. yes i know 2 is the fault of the operator but why give a moron the chance to tie up a ramp while he has that "oh sh!t" look all over his face. and did i mention they sit to high.
I dont like rollers for several reasons. 1. they sit to high 2. I have seen no less then 3 morons drop their boats on the ramp because they unhooked the tie down strap from the boat at the top of the ramp instead of after the boat was in the water. or forgot to hook it up when pulling the boat out. 3. i like to motor up on to the trailer and a roller trailer will allow the boat to slide off again. i hate that. 4. they sit to high. yes i know 2 is the fault of the operator but why give a moron the chance to tie up a ramp while he has that "oh sh!t" look all over his face. and did i mention they sit to high.
Sneaks":2ufu5de3 said:
I regularly launch solo (or effectively so depending on who is with). The tie downs come off before I launch as they would be underwater otherwise (did that once). The safety chain and the winch (electric in my case) remain on and tight until the boat is safely in the water. I'm not at all worried about losing the boat that way and it seems to me that a quality moron could easily slip a boat off the bunks onto a steep ramp if he/she works at it.
I have a long bow and stern lines and can generally launch and pull the boat over to an adjacent dock without much effort. I'm not sure how rollers vs. bunks changes the approach of the dock is far away (?). When reloading, if the place is busy, I can generally get someone to hold the boat in position while I get the vehicle and if it's not busy, I just tie up the ramp for an extra minute or so. I've found that I can slowly motor onto the trailer and if I'm on a steep ramp, leave it in gear while I hop onto the bow and hook the winch on a get the slack out - that prevents the roll down problem to which Tom is referring. Then I cut and raise the engines, jump onto the tongue of the trailer and winch her the rest of the way up. Attach the safety chain and jump onto dry ground and drive up to a level spot for final winching and strapping down.
Roger on the SeaDNA
Roger, around San Diego, at most ramps it isn't possible to pull the boat over to an adjacent dock using lines. Quivera Basin's dock is too far away from the ramp, the Mission Bay docks are not directly accessable from the ramp, and the Point Loma ramp is way too busy to allow hand pulling a boat from trailer to dock since only the two end lanes of about 8 have the dock adjacent. For a "bunker" that means unhooking the winch and safety line while physically on the boat or unhooking with only the stern afloat and then clambering aboard. Only then powering off the trailer and moving to the dock. (So far I've never forgotten the transom tiedowns, though I once forgot the damn stern plug - but thankfully not on Jenny B)
There is no advantage to rollers here, and the trailer of choice in this area is bunk. It doesn't mean there are no roller owners or proponents here, but it does mean different techniques. Alone with yours, powering on means two trips from the bow to the helm, and unattended outboards that are in gear. I only do the trip once and that's only with the engine off. Powering off is usually my only option unless I really dunk the trailer. You have the hand line option which, I have to admit, is very convenient when it can be done.
starcrafttom
Active member
Well this is like asking Ford or chevy at a toyota club meeting. sneaks, why don't they have the docks at that ramp. the only time i have seen that is at lakes where most boats are of the ski type or the water is warm. here in the north west most ramps have the docks at the ramp and most people ,not me, pull their boats over with ropes. I was taught to drive on and off and always do. i was all so taught to get the trailer close enough to the dock to step on to the boat. drive off the trailer and move the boat as far down the dock as possible so others can launch. I really hate bad dock manners, but find that it is a lack of training that is to blame.
Short story. Launching at the the ramp in sacramento down by the yacth club. ten guys in line for striper season. out of no where comes a lowered mini truck with seadoo in back. guy goes straight to the bottom of the ramp, cutting me off. pulls out his seedoo and seedoo stand,opens the truck door ,turns up the radio to thump mode and starts working on his seedoo right on the ramp in two feet of water. WEll hell thats not right. I walk over to the top of the ramp and say "heycan you move that thing so i can launch my boat. I got the the big middle finger hi sign. Couple of the other guy in line see this and we just look at each other. did i mention that striper fishing is mostly done by, how do i put this, hicks. people in the sac.area forget that they are surrounded by farm land and mountains and the hicks live there. four of us walked over with 12 gages ( ok mine was a 20 gage) and asked him again to move. To give the guy some credit he did not think twice about it or even get mad he just dragged his seedoo over to the side off the ramp and parked his truck. then went back to working on it. we all launched and headed are in different directions.
Short story. Launching at the the ramp in sacramento down by the yacth club. ten guys in line for striper season. out of no where comes a lowered mini truck with seadoo in back. guy goes straight to the bottom of the ramp, cutting me off. pulls out his seedoo and seedoo stand,opens the truck door ,turns up the radio to thump mode and starts working on his seedoo right on the ramp in two feet of water. WEll hell thats not right. I walk over to the top of the ramp and say "heycan you move that thing so i can launch my boat. I got the the big middle finger hi sign. Couple of the other guy in line see this and we just look at each other. did i mention that striper fishing is mostly done by, how do i put this, hicks. people in the sac.area forget that they are surrounded by farm land and mountains and the hicks live there. four of us walked over with 12 gages ( ok mine was a 20 gage) and asked him again to move. To give the guy some credit he did not think twice about it or even get mad he just dragged his seedoo over to the side off the ramp and parked his truck. then went back to working on it. we all launched and headed are in different directions.
Why? Good question. Probably $$$ with a shot of "designed by marina boat facility architects." With median home prices over $500k well inland, waterfront property is, shall we say, somewhat restricted?
Oceanside just built a new 6 lane launch ramp that works for line handlers or power off boaters with adjacent dock at every lane. Free launch, $5 day parking, $10 24 hr parking. Excellent facility with water washdown albeit somewhat short on parking, though there is free parking about a mile away. A great starting point for some of the least fished waters in San Diego and Orange County, btw.
The new Mission Bay Sea World Drive ramps, OTOH, have loads of free parking, lots of ramp space for at least 8 trailers at once and two loooong docks, one on each side, but to get to the dock one must power over. To get back to the truck, one must walk to the TOP of the dock walking ramp, walk through the fenced and elevated walking ramp access "gate", and back down to the tow vehicle. Fences between launch and walking ramp preclude the use of lines, though I suspect if you had a couple hundred feet of line and 36" sleeve length, it could be done. :?
Quivera Basin's dock is 50 yards from the launch ramp. 'Nuff said.
Most of the San Diego bay ramps are free, but incredibly busy on weekends when "the season" hits and just crowded off season. They all suffer from lack of parking and none that I've been to are convenient for engineless launches or recoveries. Like you, I hate folks with bad dock manners and avoid those ramps like the plague if I'm alone or with an unqualified helms"person". Best is to launch, take the boat out of the launch basin and wait until the driver returns after parking, then ease the bow into whatever space is open so he/she can join you.
Every area is different, obviously, and my choice of trailer was driven by where I'll be boating for the next few years. When I take my Californicator Equity and run away north, like Da Nag, it won't make much difference because by then I'll be looking to upgrade...
Cutty Sark
New member
From what I've seen,the main advantage of rollers seems to be, that it's easier to get your boat off the trailer. Just a little push and away it goes. However, they now have the bunks made with teflon. Which are supposedly just as easy or slick so are comparable with rollers. Though I haven't actually tried them. Another thing to consider is marginal launches without docks. I feel it is much easier to drive onto a bunk trailer than a roller. If your off a bit and dont have guides or a nasty side current or wind pushing you, it's easy to put some gouges in your boat with a roller. I'm talking from experience. And a couple more things, more moving parts on a roller which means more parts to fail, rust etc..., replacing rollers is expensive as well. I would prefer a bunk for my next trailer, after having both.
Sark
Sark
starcrafttom
Active member
sark have you decided on a boat yet?
Having owned both styles, I've always liked the support that bunks give in that they spread the weight of the boat over a much broader area. When I trailer back into a rough area, I've noticed that my boat bounces and moves back and forth much more on a roller trailer, no matter how well it is secured. Boats don't seem to have that issue with a bunk trailer.
Having watched enough guys rip up the bow of their boat on the bow stop or rip up their lower unit, I'm also not a big fan of running my boat up on the trailer with the motor. Rollers are easier to winch a boat up on, but if I back the trailer into the water deep enough to get the bunks wet, it's not a big issue. Since I always wash everything off afterwards, salt or fresh water, I'm not too concerned about salt damage.
"Chivita" Dave
Having watched enough guys rip up the bow of their boat on the bow stop or rip up their lower unit, I'm also not a big fan of running my boat up on the trailer with the motor. Rollers are easier to winch a boat up on, but if I back the trailer into the water deep enough to get the bunks wet, it's not a big issue. Since I always wash everything off afterwards, salt or fresh water, I'm not too concerned about salt damage.
"Chivita" Dave
Cutty Sark
New member
Starcraft Tom-
At this time I am looking for a used CD Crusier. I still would really like something with a self bailing cockpit. But every boats a compromise. And so far I keep coming back to the CD for the amenities, ease of trailering and, that you don't need 200 HP to push it. I am going to look at a striper and a parker again before buying, but am fairly sure it's going to be a CD 22 in the end. I still have a line on a sweet orca but they are so heavy!!! Time will tell I guess.
Sark
PS sorry not trying to hijack this thread.
At this time I am looking for a used CD Crusier. I still would really like something with a self bailing cockpit. But every boats a compromise. And so far I keep coming back to the CD for the amenities, ease of trailering and, that you don't need 200 HP to push it. I am going to look at a striper and a parker again before buying, but am fairly sure it's going to be a CD 22 in the end. I still have a line on a sweet orca but they are so heavy!!! Time will tell I guess.
Sark
PS sorry not trying to hijack this thread.
I think as long as you don't try to hijack Tyboo's boat, I don't think anybody's gonna get their skivvies in a bunch over it.ArimaSark":2e3w0l8w said:
My stepson bought a new Parker about three months (and a ride) before we ordered the Jenny B. The differences are apparent as you already know, I'm sure. Parker has a bigger cockpit and is, from the git-go a fishing platform that can be cruised, albeit limited by cabin space, whereas the CD is more of a cruiser that performs well as a fishing platform but not for as many buddies, for sure . CD being more the "Jack of all trades" (JOAT) boat of the two. He fishes out of Barnagat Light NJ and it's perfect for his needs and wants. The CD is perfect for ours.
To keep this remotely on topic, he does not own a trailer, preferring to haul the boat and store it at the marina in the winter. Something folks on the right coast often do. The yard "shrink wraps" it and there's little overwinter worry.
Tough choices you've got, Sark....
Don
I've always had bunk trailers on sail boats and smaller power boats I've owned before the C-Dory. My tandem E-Z Loader roller trailer has served me well, however, with this boat, often allowing launching at shallow ramps and irregular launching conditions that bunk trailers might have had more or less problems with.
I certainly can see the advantage of a bunk trailer when powering on or off, but if you don't have a dock along side and you're launching by yourself, you've got some adjustments to make however you handle it. Launching under difficult conditions can be a real test of your creativity and adaptability.
One often neglected advantage of a roller trailer is that you can paint the bottom of the boat while its on a roller trailer much easier than on a bunk trailer. Paint all over and around the rollers, then move the boat back about 15 inches on the trailer and paint the bare spots. Reduces a $400-$500 commercial shop job to a $100 DTY weekend project. Do it two or three times, and you've probably paid for the cost difference between a single axle and a tandem axel trailer.
Another couple of points:
A good high set of guide-ons to keep the boat centered are very useful not just in cross winds, but just to center the boat properly for either bunk or roller trailers.
Adding a sheet of 1/2"-3/4" plywood behind the bow post (toward the axels) will allow you to walk out onto the trailer further to put the hook on the bow upon retrieval and will also allow you to push the bow out further upon launch as well. Be sure to treat/paint it properly.
Moving the trailer lights up on the guide-ons where they never are immersed can greatly reduce trailer maintainance problems. Be sure all electrical connections are sealed as completely as possible to prevent any water intrusion.
Bunk trailers need to have the staples in the carpet checked at least yearly for rust and looseness. Use stainless staples as replacements.
Roller trailers can stand a yearly spray of lubricant/rust preventative (your choice) to work better and help minimize corrosion.
Check the whole trailer over yearly for loose bolts, broken welds, etc
Tires, bearings. and brakes require constant supervision and evaluation. Keep them in A-1 condition at all times and check for hot bearings and brake problems every few hundred miles when trailering. Also, check your coupler at these times.
Sorry to get carried away, just some additional things to think about! Joe.
I certainly can see the advantage of a bunk trailer when powering on or off, but if you don't have a dock along side and you're launching by yourself, you've got some adjustments to make however you handle it. Launching under difficult conditions can be a real test of your creativity and adaptability.
One often neglected advantage of a roller trailer is that you can paint the bottom of the boat while its on a roller trailer much easier than on a bunk trailer. Paint all over and around the rollers, then move the boat back about 15 inches on the trailer and paint the bare spots. Reduces a $400-$500 commercial shop job to a $100 DTY weekend project. Do it two or three times, and you've probably paid for the cost difference between a single axle and a tandem axel trailer.
Another couple of points:
A good high set of guide-ons to keep the boat centered are very useful not just in cross winds, but just to center the boat properly for either bunk or roller trailers.
Adding a sheet of 1/2"-3/4" plywood behind the bow post (toward the axels) will allow you to walk out onto the trailer further to put the hook on the bow upon retrieval and will also allow you to push the bow out further upon launch as well. Be sure to treat/paint it properly.
Moving the trailer lights up on the guide-ons where they never are immersed can greatly reduce trailer maintainance problems. Be sure all electrical connections are sealed as completely as possible to prevent any water intrusion.
Bunk trailers need to have the staples in the carpet checked at least yearly for rust and looseness. Use stainless staples as replacements.
Roller trailers can stand a yearly spray of lubricant/rust preventative (your choice) to work better and help minimize corrosion.
Check the whole trailer over yearly for loose bolts, broken welds, etc
Tires, bearings. and brakes require constant supervision and evaluation. Keep them in A-1 condition at all times and check for hot bearings and brake problems every few hundred miles when trailering. Also, check your coupler at these times.
Sorry to get carried away, just some additional things to think about! Joe.
Having had quite a few trailers, some with rollers and some with bunks, I have given up on the debate. Doesn't matter much to me.
One thing we do around here is put dishwashing liquid on the carpet that is on the bunks. Seems to make the boat slide off easier when it hits the water.
Also makes a few "clean" stripes on the hull! :lol:
One thing we do around here is put dishwashing liquid on the carpet that is on the bunks. Seems to make the boat slide off easier when it hits the water.
Also makes a few "clean" stripes on the hull! :lol: