Capital Sea
New member
With the solid advice given here, I have replaced disk brake pads all around on my dual axle King trailer. The caliper model # can be found on the back of the caliper.
Parts: My model is Tiedown brand 46 304 and the match for pads is the same as for a 1990 chevy cavaleer. The replacements come two sets to a box at $18.00 a pair at my local auto parts store.
Tools: a large 8" C clamp
A large screw driver
One or two feet of 1/4" clear hose
A 7/16 socket and open end wrench
Pliers, WD40, and an old jar
Inspection: Warning: visual inspection was misleading as the factory had installed oversized pads so the top or outer edge looked thick when the pads were thin where they matched up with the disk.
Step by step:
Jack up trailer remove all four tires blocking the trailer at four points if loaded.
Spray the lug nuts and threads with WD40.
Remove the two caliper mounting bolts located on the upper rear using 7/16ths wrench and lift off the caliper.
Remove the old pads.
Take the C clamp placing the threded shaft in the extended caliper. On this model the brakes are applied by what looks like a 1 1/2" stainless pipe. Use the 7/16 wrench to loosen the bleeder valve and fit the section of 1/4 tube on the nipple , running the end into the jar. Open the valve and tighten the C clamp until the plunger end is flush with the caliper housing and tighten the valve.
Install the new pads and slip the caliper over the disk. Apply locktight to the ss studs and tighten to 45 lbs.
After all have been replaced, starting farthest from the bow in terms of how the lines run, in my case this was the rear port wheel, install the 1/4"tube over a bleeder valve running it down and into the jar.
With everything in place have your helper take the large screwdriver and go to the hitch. After checking the fluid level and filling to 3/4" below the top prior to bleeding each wheel and replacing the cap, place the head if the screwdriver into the 3/4" hole located just forward of the threaded shaft that sticks out the front of the brake fluid tank and actuater. Have the helper apply presure on the threaded shaft with the screwdriver shaft by pushing aft. As this pressure is applied open the bleeder valve and then close it before the helper releases and then applies pressure on the refilled actuater.
Repeat this step until the fluid out is clear. We never noted air in the forced out fluid but repeated this step three times at each wheel.
Parts: My model is Tiedown brand 46 304 and the match for pads is the same as for a 1990 chevy cavaleer. The replacements come two sets to a box at $18.00 a pair at my local auto parts store.
Tools: a large 8" C clamp
A large screw driver
One or two feet of 1/4" clear hose
A 7/16 socket and open end wrench
Pliers, WD40, and an old jar
Inspection: Warning: visual inspection was misleading as the factory had installed oversized pads so the top or outer edge looked thick when the pads were thin where they matched up with the disk.
Step by step:
Jack up trailer remove all four tires blocking the trailer at four points if loaded.
Spray the lug nuts and threads with WD40.
Remove the two caliper mounting bolts located on the upper rear using 7/16ths wrench and lift off the caliper.
Remove the old pads.
Take the C clamp placing the threded shaft in the extended caliper. On this model the brakes are applied by what looks like a 1 1/2" stainless pipe. Use the 7/16 wrench to loosen the bleeder valve and fit the section of 1/4 tube on the nipple , running the end into the jar. Open the valve and tighten the C clamp until the plunger end is flush with the caliper housing and tighten the valve.
Install the new pads and slip the caliper over the disk. Apply locktight to the ss studs and tighten to 45 lbs.
After all have been replaced, starting farthest from the bow in terms of how the lines run, in my case this was the rear port wheel, install the 1/4"tube over a bleeder valve running it down and into the jar.
With everything in place have your helper take the large screwdriver and go to the hitch. After checking the fluid level and filling to 3/4" below the top prior to bleeding each wheel and replacing the cap, place the head if the screwdriver into the 3/4" hole located just forward of the threaded shaft that sticks out the front of the brake fluid tank and actuater. Have the helper apply presure on the threaded shaft with the screwdriver shaft by pushing aft. As this pressure is applied open the bleeder valve and then close it before the helper releases and then applies pressure on the refilled actuater.
Repeat this step until the fluid out is clear. We never noted air in the forced out fluid but repeated this step three times at each wheel.