Table modification

M

matt_unique

New member
I have a laminated map (about 14 X 18") that I want to lay on the table to be covered with plexi or regular glass. I would prefer the lighter plexiglass over regular glass.

What would you suggest as the best way to secure the plexi overlay to the table? The fiddles around the edge will offer a bit of a cradle but I would hate to hit a wave and have it go flying. Plus plexi would not be totally flat without being secured in several places.

Thanks!
 
MATT,
I WOULD SECURE IT WITH THE WEIGHT OF A GOOD COLD BEER!
IF THAT DOESN'T WORK, I'D DRINK THE BEER AND FORGET ABOUT THE PROJECT!
HOPE THIS HELPS.
BEST REGARDS
CAPS PAT
 
Matt,

You could try putting a countersunk area in each corner of a diameter to hold one of the heavier, self stick, hook and loop "dots" so that the plexi-glass will rest almost flat when the velcro dots are engaged. You could countersink either the plexiglass or the table top. I'd think the plexi-glass would be the one to drill on.

You could also try just double sided tape, but my experience running around with the windows at least cracked open, is that some moisture is likely to get underneath the plexiglass and an easily removable attachment would be the best.

John
 
I WAS ORIGINALLY GOING TO SUGGEST AN EIGHT PENNY NAIL BUT DIDN'T THINK YOU'D SEE THE HUMOR IN THAT, SO, I WENT WITH THE BEER! STILL THINK THAT'S YOUR BEST OPTION!
I'M IN THE OFFICE, DEAD QUITE FOR A WEDNESDAY, WAITING FOR 5:00 SO I CAN HEAD OUT FOR THE GYM. PERHAPS THERE, I'LL BE ABLE TO WAKE UP, OR AT LEAST THE MUSIC WILL KEEP ME FROM FALLING ASLEEP.
HAVE A GREAT ONE.
PAT
 
Matt
I made a custom table for the camper. It was plywood with an arbporite top and edged with oak about two inches wide. I did not put enough contact cement and the top rose creating a bubble effect. Rats ? My solution? I had a map that I wanted to inlay in the table. I made a frame about 1/8 inch larger than the map and clamped it on the table. With the router on a trammel and a surfacing bit I routed a hollow about 1/8 inch deep. It was a bit rough because of the plywood so I mixed up some bondo body filler and filled the rough spots and sanded them smooth. I painted the depression with a flat white paint for a backdrop for the map. A dark surface will show through. I then mixed an epoxy ( available at most building supplies) made especially for table tops and poured it in the depression. I layed the map on the epoxy and pressed out any air and poured more epoxy over the map. The edges were masked off with masking tape. Take a hair dryer or heat gun and gently blow out any bubbles and you will get a durable smooth finish. Plexiglass or lexan will scratch and you will only rent it. Glass is better but weight and breakage come into play. This table has been in the camper for five years and has stood up well. If it shows sign of scratches just put another coat of finish on. The map features the wonderful playground I live in. Visitors always comment on how good it looks. This sounds like a lot of work but end result is durable and long lasting.
Mike Whelpley
 
Matt, I remember that someone on this site already did a project similar to what you are considering. Start perusing the "search" engine on this site and hopefully you'll come up with it. Perhaps someone will read your request and remember who or what C-Dory already did this project.
 
I'd think a KISS approach would work well enough and be a lot simpler.

First, make the Plexiglass full sized for the table, so that the rounded corners match and the entire surface is level. Full size also allows you to go to a bigger map later.

Just drill four to eight holes (one each in the corners and one each half way down the sides). Use counter sunk headed screws. If the Plexiglass is deep enough, just take the top of the screw heads level to the top of the plastic. If it's too thin, then use finishing washers to hide part of the head of the screws. Stay away from the very edge of the plastic to avoid splitting it.

countersunk-finishing-washer.jpg
phillips_finishing.gif


My $0.02!

HTH!

Joe. :thup :teeth
 
DaveS":2yfvbk8d said:
Matt, I remember that someone on this site already did a project similar to what you are considering. Start perusing the "search" engine on this site and hopefully you'll come up with it. Perhaps someone will read your request and remember who or what C-Dory already did this project.
Click to expand...
DaveS - that would be Mike (Alasgun) on Huda Thunkit. Unfortunately, he has removed his photo album and has limited involvement on this site because of the negative comments, PM's and emails he got from members because of his signature line a while back.

Don't know if he still receives PM's but a person could try. He still occasionally post on the site and reads some threads.
________
Dave dlt.gif
 
Thanks for the many suggestions!

Tybo that is some nice work!

MikeWhelpley made a good point about the plexi having a limited shelf life (sratches more easily). With a screw solution I could replace the plexi easy enough. I definitely plan to cover the entire table area, from the fiddles to the hull.

Considering the scratch issue, I wonder how much heavier real glass would be? With glass I would probably just need 2 - 4 holes drilled (if I were to scew it to the table) since the weight would prevent the warping. Hmmm...am I right to be weary of the weight of glass or are we talking small potatoes for a piece of glass this size? Of course it would also depend on the thickness...a thick piece of glass would be quite heavy. As I'm thinking through this...we are talking about a table that would have beer bottles and whatever else dropped on it and I would need a decent thickness of glass to withstand the impact forces...hmmm.
 
From a person who has had tabletops of ceramic tile, glass and metal... my advice is to avoid those hard surfaces. Even at a quiet anchorage, it is not hard to set your glass/cup/plate down just the tiniest bit too fast and CRash - there you are with broken glass and liquid all over the place.

Just have the map laminated and double stick tape it to the table top if that is what you want. When the water gets rough, stuff will spill and break and get underneath the glass. How easy will it be to take the screws out and handle a big piece of glass at sea while drying that out?

Mainly the breakage risk - even eyeglasses - is just too high in my experience.

John
 
I will apply some sort of cover to protect the map (antique) but I wonder if I 'll have lot's of condensation between the table surface and the glass or plexi cover....in fact with that in mind glass would likely condense more than plexi. ...
 
I have one of those palm size routers.... and love it...always trying to use it on something.... What I would do... is route out the area where you want to insert yer map..... deep enough so the map will lay flat with a piece of acrilic or polycarbonate (much tougher) will lay flat with the remaining table surface.... recess it... then just a thin layer of silicone sealer would be all that it would take to hold it in place.....

I really like the tile table....but that's out of my skill range... I actually taught industrial plastics at Chico State years ago.

Joel
SEA3PO
 
matt_unique":e6edbbmr said:
I will apply some sort of cover to protect the map (antique) but I wonder if I 'll have lot's of condensation between the table surface and the glass or plexi cover....in fact with that in mind glass would likely condense more than plexi. ...
Click to expand...

Why not have the map proffesionally laminated first?
 
flapbreaker":1h3ak55a said:
matt_unique":1h3ak55a said:
I will apply some sort of cover to protect the map (antique) but I wonder if I 'll have lot's of condensation between the table surface and the glass or plexi cover....in fact with that in mind glass would likely condense more than plexi. ...
Click to expand...

Why not have the map proffesionally laminated first?
Click to expand...

I laminated the map as the first step. When I refer to protective cover I mean either glass or plexiglass covering the entire table surface area with the laminated map under that. I'm concerned that there will be condensation between the bottom of the plexi or glass and the table thus blocking the view of the laminated map.
 
I have cut to fit a piece of cotton backed vinyl table cloth and overlaided it with a piece of acrylic plastic from HOME DEPOT, also cut to fit. I have placed pictures and maps under the plastic and removed same without any issues. The dampness that we have here is not as pronounced as in the NW, so I'm not sure how that will playout for you.

There are plenty of plastic cleaners that takes out any scratches and it is pretty brake resistance. I have not had the table top cover, etc, 'fly off', scratch, crack or break; yet, after 2 years.
 
Sounds like a cool project. Initially, it is what we had in mind but Donna came up with the tile idea and we decided to go with that. We love it. We have had no problems with it. We normally have a couple of pieces of that nonskid mat material on it along with some saltwater fish placemats for normal use. When we want to display the table, we simply remove the mats.

Joel, I'm no rocket scientist...it was an easy project. "So easy a caveman can do it." :lol: There's a description of how we did it in that table thread...or you can PM me if you like.

Rick
 
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