Stopper stuck on port engine

M

matt_unique

New member
The stopper on the shaft of my port engine comes off easy. The stopper on my starboard engine is seized. I tapped it a few times and used two screwdrivers on opposing sides to try to push it off with no luck.

I did bump that prop while stationary at the dock - wind blew my starboard side against a pylon the first month it was in the water last season - prop was not engaged. There is a tiny bend in one of my prop blades but I mean I don't even think it's enough to repair. Both props spin easy when I push them by hand.

Suggestions?
 
Thanks for asking.... I have been looking and thinking .....what the heck is that ??? a cork ?? or an eletrical gizmo ?

Guess I am no help...(so what else is new?)

Joel
SEA3PO
 
Matt
If your engine is like mine that metal stopper, or thick washer is a thrust bearing I belive. Mine was stuck also, just sprayed penetrating oil and tapped with a small brass hammer till it loosened. Came right off.
Chuck
Bootleg Hooch
 
Matt,

Put grease on the inside of your Thrust Washers start of each season and when you pull it out of the water for the winter. This will help with future removals. Sometimes, it will still be lodge in there pretty good, but it will always come off.

George
 
Thanks gentlemen - I will definitely make a point to do this for winter layup. Everything else is of course carefully greased on the shaft.
 
Well today I began the winterization process in earnest. Using an impact tool I was able to get all my lower unit gear oil screws out. (Two out of 6 were seized at the start of last season). I will be replacing all 6 screws.

I could not get the prop stoppers off though. I sprayed each with WD40, put a blow dryer on each for 5 minutes straight, used a rubber hammer as well as a solid hammer, screwdrivers on either side, etc. Neither of them would budge. (End of last season one was free but the other was seized - both are seized this year).

Any other suggestions? I used a solid hammer to dry to free them but I'm concerned about whacking them harder than I already have. I wonder if Suzuki shops use some sort of tool to pull them off (like a steering wheel removing tool)? The rear side of the stopper is rounded and I'm not sure I could get a bite with steering wheel removal tools.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Matt
Going with Pete, That PB Blaster is great stuff. Spray on liberally and walk away for awhile. The stuff works.
Chuck
Bootleg Hooch
 
Snap-On tools (catch the trucks at car shops) used to make a compound called Never-Seez. It was a heavy grease with metallic powder. Used it for years on everything I put together (and woudl probably have to take apart again). Great stuff but have no idea whether or not it's still around. Ready-made for the realy hard ones like prop shafts.
 
When trying to remove the thrust washer, remember that there is a rubber oil seal behind the thrust washer.

Do not use a solvent that would damage the seal rubber.

Be cautious about too much heat for the same reason.

The prop shaft and thrust washer are tapered and can stick together. Perhaps checking with the dealer's service department would help.

Unless the lower unit needs to be taken apart, or the oil seal replaced, the thrust washer can remain on the shaft.

Larry H
Retired Evinrude mechanic
 
Can you get a small gear puller on the "stopper"?

I'd also suggest something like PB Blaster, Aerokroil or similiar. WD40 is a great "water displacer" (hence the WD) but that's about it IMO. I'd also put a small amount of silver anti-seize compound on prior to re-assembly and also on any small screws/bolts etc. You can get it at your local auto parts store. A little goes a loooooooong way.
 
Well I tried a gear puller but had to rig it to fit the 6.5" length and could not get a great pull.

Sprayed on some PB Blaster, waited 5 min, then took the solid hammer to it and they came right off. I hit a little harder than I had before and a straight on hit. Now that they are off, I was able to lube the entire shaft length with grease to minimize the opportunity for sticking next season.

Having done it now, the best place to whack it is straight on. The shaft behind the stopper is thicker and rounded so a straight on hit will loosen it well.

Thanks for the help!
 
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