Replacing your trailer axel...

M

Mr. Fisherman

New member
I am either going to replace my axel or get a new trailer.
Mine keeps going through bearings and hubs and I have had enough.
I am looking for information on doing this myself. What do I need to look at?
I plan on a 5000# axel. I anticipate replacing the hubs, brakes and wheels.

I am not certain how to position the new axel to insure the trailer tracks straight or how to get the tounge weight right without trial and error, which I would like to keep down to a minimum.

Also, with our boats is a drop center axel necessary? They are more expensive and I am not sure we need one.

Thanks in advance for your input...
 
Hi,
You can get new axles from Champion Trailers If I remember right they will fit easy loader to and you also can just replace one side of the axle ( on the easy loader you have to replace the whole axle ) I think Les could answer your question about that for sure. On my trailer I have had to replace bearings about once a season ( the seals go bad becuse of rust forming on the seal surface ) still working on a fix hope the latest trick works if it does I will post what I did.
Richard
 
I replaced the axles on a tired dual axle RV about 8 years ago and the cost of axle with complete brake assemblies and seals was less than the cost of having the local RV shop simply turn the hubs and rebuild the brakes.

Any local utility trailer "mfg" will tell you where they get their axles. Got mine directly from a Hayes axle manufacturing outfit about 75 miles from here. The critical measurement is the distance between the faceplates your hub assembly bolts to. They need that and the load capacity requirements to build you a new one.

Replacing it is easy even for a geezer in training. It should bolt up right where the old one went, and if you replace one axle at a time you have the old axle to measure from to align the first new one. A tip: Use loctite on the seal outer ring - and paint the outer surface with the loctite too. Holds the rust off for a little longer.

Surge brakes need the bleed process, of course, but that's not hard either.

You might just look closely at the ends of your axles. My entire hub/brake assembly bolts to the axle faceplate and those assemblies are even easier to replace. 4 bolts and the brake line removes everything. If your springs and bushings are OK, it's quick and a surprisingly inexpensive alternative.
 
I resemble that remark!

Maybe SOMEBODY handy could just gin up a little PDF, say entitled "Trailer Bearing Replacement for Dummies." Illustrated with lots of photos of course. I am coming up on two years, have done nothing more than flush the brakes and squirt some grease in the bearing buddies...



Sneaks":1zvkp00i said:
Replacing it is easy even for a geezer in training.
Click to expand...
 
Pat
If you want, I would be willing to show you how it is done. just tow daydream over and we can back her into the heated shop and work on her in comfort....lol....
I will assist you so you can learn
 
Pat, this isn't totally full of pictures but it does have one diagram and lots of words. I think it's geezer friendly, and I can say that 'cause I are one.

http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/bearing1.html

It's not a hard job, just kinda messy :smilep . Make sure you have all the parts before you start. A google on "trailer wheel bearing replacement" will get you lots of other information too.

Charlie
 
I have done this enough to be on a C-Dory pit crew now....
Best advice I got was from Lyle on assembeling the hub, races and bearings before reinstalling them.
I also bought a fancy bearing packer that forces out all the air and gives a "professional" bearing pack. I also clean my bearings with gas or kerosene, unless I am on the side of the road in the rain....
I don't think it is my technique.
 
Hey Ray
I would suggest not washing the bearrings in gas or kerosene. The gas and or kerosene will leave a film on the bearring rollers that keeps the grease from adhearing . it is best to use solvent. it will dry up and not leave the film. using the bearring packer is good. I always use one and pump grease into the bearrings till it has a good sized ammount on the top . then I smear the excess all over the outer cone and also in the race.I also pump grease onto the inner bearring between the seal and bearring before installing the grease seal
here on the farm dust and mud/dirt are almost as bad on bearrings as salt water.
 
Thanks, Charlie - great URL, kind of lays it out. I still might take Roger up on his offer, though.

When I go to NAPA, how do I know what to ask for? All I know is "bearings for an EZ Loader boat trailer" - is that specific enough?



Captains Choice":1nfqymbn said:
Pat, this isn't totally full of pictures but it does have one diagram and lots of words. I think it's geezer friendly, and I can say that 'cause I are one.

http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/bearing1.html

It's not a hard job, just kinda messy :smilep . Make sure you have all the parts before you start. A google on "trailer wheel bearing replacement" will get you lots of other information too.

Charlie
Click to expand...
 
Thanks, Roger - I will probably take you up on that...I will email or call...


SENSEI":riu146h8 said:
Pat
If you want, I would be willing to show you how it is done. just tow daydream over and we can back her into the heated shop and work on her in comfort....lol....
I will assist you so you can learn
Click to expand...
 
Not even close....

You will be able to get the bearings alright by providing them with part numbers, the seal, however, is really only available from the factory.
Be sure to check the surface the seal mates with. They had a speedy sleeve type of afair on their early torsion axels. I forget the nomenclature right now, I'll look later. Anyway it was a similar lube system to bearing buddies but it flowed through a hole in the sleeve and out the axel instead of through the seal like the bearing buddy. The problem is that that sleeve wears out and they don't make them anymore. Without a smooth surface for the seal to ride on bearing life is significantly reduced due to the entry path for dust and water.
It is a poor design and I am about done with it.
I think it was the sure lube system. I am sure it sucks.
 
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