Questions on re-building tandem trailer for 22 Cruiser

S

Sunbeam

Active member
I think I may have found myself a 22 (finally!). One snag is that the trailer needs work, and I can't get the boat into my possession until I have a trailer to put under it. I'm having to make some quick decisions on rebuild parts (to be ordered tomorrow morning) and I could use some advice/opinions from you all. Please check my math, comment from your real-world experience, etc.

(BTW, sorry this is so long and wordy, but I didn't want to post just a bare-bones question and then make you all "beg" for each bit of necessary information.)

The trailer is a Magic Tilt TMCF1921-4410B78X13C. It came with the boat originally from the dealer. GVW is around 5300#; capacity is 4410# It has not been used to launch, from all appearances, but is weathered and needs work before a boat can live on it.

So, I need new tires (plus new brakes/actuator, re-packed bearings, new wiring, new lights, new bunks, new inner wheelwell boards (not sure what those are called), and a new winch strap). Other than that it's fine ;) No, really, it is in pretty good shape, structurally. My most pressing question is on the tires/wheels. It currently has five 13" galvanized rims in fine shape. Tires are old and need replacing (and rims are not a big cost factor compared to the tires), hence my questions.

Magic Tilt does sell this exact same trailer with 14" wheels/tires (205/75-14) and then it is rated for 700# more capacity. Now, from my reading here, I think the 4410# trailer carrying capacity is adequate for a 22 Cruiser; BUT, let's say I do load the trailer up to near it's GVW of 5300# - say to 5000#. That would be 2500# per axle, and 1250# per tire IF all four tires stayed loaded exactly equally. That doesn't seem too likely to me, so that tire figure is the one that has me concerned. Here is what I have found for tire capacities:

In the 13" tire size (ST radial, 175/80-13), I have a few choices in load range C, which are rated for 1360# each, and one choice (that I have found) in load range D, which is rated for 1610#. I did also find a 185/80-13 rated for 1480# If I were to move up to 14" wheels, I would want to move up in size now if I were ever going to. I would have more tire selection, and could easily get tires rated from ~1400# on up to ~1700# in the 14" size.

I suppose one can subtract the tongue weight, but again, it doesn't seem like all four tires would be loaded equally all the time and would be darned close to their rating? Wouldn't just a hint of off-centered loading or shifting of weight bring them up over max capacity? Am I missing something in my calculations? Those of you with 22's who have tandem trailers - what size wheels are you running? Would you change?

I have no particular "need" to upgrade to 14" wheels if the 13" and tires are fine. The current 13" rims are galvanized and in very good condition. OTOH, if I'm going to do it, now is the time (buying five tires). I'm hoping to do some long-distance trailering, and I want to feel good about the trailer and not have nagging worries (beyond the normal "I'm towing something" ones).

If I were to move up to 14" wheels/tires... is it possible to go too heavy in load range (there are lower options in 14" though)? I'm thinking that perhaps if one did that and then inflated the tires properly they would be too "stiff" for the rest of the trailer? (Would it be something like oversizing rigging on a sailboat and then when you tune it to the proper tension it puts too much stress on other (smaller) fittings?)

I'm not usually one to make such quick decisions, but the boat needs to be moved ASAP, and so I have to get the trailer ready now, without ages to research. I need to order parts tomorrow morning, in fact.

Thank you! I'm hoping to be able to make an "official" brat introduction soon (when I have a trailer AND a boat in my possession).

B.

PS: For the brakes I'm thinking of going with Kodiak Dacromet coated discs on both axles (only has drums on one axle now and they need replacing). IIUC, I can upgrade those to electric-over-hydraulic in future without "backtracking," right? (Trailer does need a new actuator now, but was going to go with one for surge/discs at the moment.)
 
How much do all of the components cost versus a new trailer rigged the way you want?

Presumably you could pull the boat and trailer out on a flat bed to get it to a more easily worked place. Not sure how tall boat/trailer would be on the typical "tow truck" or if there are intervening low clearance issues but I have seen breakdowns hauled that way.

Just a couple of thoughts.

Bill Uffelman
Las Vegas NV & Ocean View DE
 
I would move up to 14" wheels. The larger dia. puts less miles on your bearings and less speed (heat). You can sometimes find a deal on tire/rim combinations for not much more than it cost to buy tires and pay to have them installed and balanced. You could also carry your 2 best 13" tires as spares. They say you should carry 2 spares with a tandam anyway because if 1 blows at speed sometimes the 2nd will blow from the extra weight before you get off the freeway. Sounds like the 13" tires would be maxed out. Its also not just the weight of everything at rest - when you hit a bump or dip at speed - the action of the springs take weight off the tires then brings it down with increased force.
Good luck, Regards Rob
 
I have just been digging in to tires for my 19' a single axle. It has on it ST215-75R14 load range C which are rated at a little than 1800 pounds. I figure my loaded weight is 3600 pounds with all gear and trailer. I travel dirt roads so the load range is to close.
Now what I started to say Tire rack has a Good Year marathon trailer tire load range E It is not listed because of a catalog mistake.
There also may be a 205-75 R14 in load range D. I have had problems finding load ranges other than C in trailer tires.

Guy
 
I would choose 14" wheels since you have the opportunity. I'd expect the tires (and wheel bearings) to be more reliable, and to handle rougher surfaces more easily.

I wouldn't worry about the tires being too stiff. If you have greater weight-carrying capacity than necessary with them at their highest rated pressure, you could lower the pressure some until the contact patch is correct, not wearing too much either in the middle of the tire or at the sides. That's what we do with the rears on our pickup, as weights being carried vary a lot. A trip to the truck scale might be a good idea to make sure you understand the weight correctly.

I'd consider Goodyear Marathon radials ST205/75R-14, C rating, $116 at Discount Tire. Goodyear has weight vs pressure charts for your reference on their web site.

http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf
 
If it was my trailer, I would go with the 14" wheels and tires. (same reasoning as above. Load on tires should be pretty close to even IF the trailer is towed level, (same ground clearance at the tongue as at the rear end frame component). Yes there will be some differential, for instance in cornering, or climbing but in general on the level all should be equal. (On a level slab, measure the height from the ground at the tongue, and ate the trailer frame front at the bend on both sides and rear at the sides just in front of the cross bar.)

Good point about all the mods pricing and how close is that going to be to get to where you want, vs a new trailer. Consider how far you need that initial haul to be. Could what you have available now work for that, then unload the trailer and do what you need with a bit more time? My initial pull was about 5 miles. Some have pulled from Florida to Alaska. Obviously the trailer condition for for those trips can be considerably different.

I think you are on the right track for brakes. I don't think I would consider carrying 13" spares if I was running 14" on the ground. I guess it could work like a get me home donut tire on many cars, but not my choice.

Congrats on finding the boat.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Thanks for all the replies! You all are confirming my initial thought, which was to move up to 14" wheels/tires -- but it's nice to have those thoughts backed up by people who are experienced with the boats :thup

As far as getting a new trailer: Unless they are a lot cheaper than I was thinking, I think it probably makes good sense to stick with what I have. This trailer is in really nice shape, structurally (doesn't look like it's ever been used, actually). It came with the boat and so is set up for the 22. It's basically what I want (tandem axle, galvanized, etc.). It does need some new components. That said, I have assumed a new tandem with dual Kodiak disc brakes and 14" wheels would probably be in the $4000 range (since it would be the components I'm getting plus an entire trailer frame and axles). I don't think I'm going to get close to that in fixing this one up, but I'll see tomorrow when it comes time to order parts.

Has anyone recently bought or priced a tandem galvanized trailer for a 22 who wouldn't mind sharing what they found?

I'm going to start with a long tow, so I want things to be right. (Good point that I should have mentioned that though.)

The one thing I'm holding off on is the E-o-H brakes. But if I'm understanding what I'm reading, I can add that on any time without "backtracking" on anything I'll already be adding. Is that correct? You know, I might just have gone ahead with them, but folks here do not seem to put them on regularly (well it is flat as a pancake), and so it was a "new" thing for them. So I was thinking I'd see how the surge/discs work out at least at first (which would then put me more in mountain/E-o-H territory if I want to upgrade).

On the tires: I've been reading up on trailer tires, and boy.... there is no clear winner, is there? It sounds like the Goodyear Marathons used to be really great but have perhaps slipped in recent years. The Maxxis sound interesting, and if I go to 14" wheels they have a couple of choices. I haven't found any "clear winner," Made-in-USA radials of the correct size (anyone?)

BTW, for anyone looking for a higher load range tire for a 13" wheel: I found a Kenda Karrier ST radial that is a D-range tire and is rated up to 1610# - they are available through e-trailer.com They got good reviews, but most of the reviews were along the lines of "I just received these tires and they look great!" -- so not really conclusive. OTOH, I didn't see a lot of people going back to say how terrible they were after using them.

Thanks again!
B.
 
http://www.tufftrailer.com/index.php?ma ... cts_id=284

will get you pricing on aluminum and galvanized trailers. Interestingly I was just quoted $2773 on aluminum single axle with 4000 pound rating

Model SA 4000T aluminum single
axle trailer with torsion axle, disk brakes and four
padded bunks set up to fit SC-24 hull. $2,773

that is listed for more on the aforementioned site.

Bill Uffelman
Las Vegas NV & Ocean View DE
 
I will do some checking on the new trailer option. I could probably get the same model Magic Tilt (again) here, since they are a local manufacturer. It seems like it should cost a lot more than fixing mine, but maybe it's like the difference between buying a new car as a whole and assembling a new car made up of separate parts from the parts department ($$).

I've requested a photo album here, so that I can post some photos of the trailer.
 
Okay, Tyboo set me up with an album (thanks!), and so here are some photos of the trailer in question. It has been sitting outside for years (sans boat), so it has some failed components; but on the other hand it doesn't look like it has actually been dunked much (at all?). The photos show some of the pros and cons. Now I wish I had named this thread more generically, as I have quite a few non-wheel trailer questions too! Maybe I will see if it can be changed.

Here (obviously) is the whole trailer. The bunk boards have not rotted, but because they have warped/twisted up on the ends, I worry that they would dig into the boat hull, so I think I will replace them. The inner fender liners (not sure what you call them but they are plywood "half-moons" covered in carpet were a bit rotten (end grain facing up). I guess the boat touches these when loading or unloading? I was wondering whether something like Azek would be better than plywood (I guess if the boat is going to contact them, then carpet is a good idea....). I've removed the originals now and will use them as a pattern to cut the new ones. I imagine some guides or goalposts would be a good idea, but right now I have no idea how the boat sits on the trailer, so I wouldn't know how to fit them.
IMG_3248.jpg

To the good, the fenders are sturdy and long (I like these for climbing on vs. the ones that are two individual humps) (I guess that makes it a Dromedary ;)) To whomever left a rusty can sitting on the fender: Thanks heaps :cry
IMG_3250.jpg

Most of the metalwork is in pretty good shape:
IMG_3255.jpg

Leaf springs. There are (well, were - they are now removed) drum brakes on only one axle; however the second axle does have mounting flanges.
IMG_3249.jpg

I removed the winch cable and was considering switching to a strap, but there do not seem to be many available with the "tail" end/strap body combination (the bit that holds the end of the wire rope in place doesn't tidily accommodate a strap loop). I wonder if I should stick with wire rope? Opinions? I have really never had a trailer-launched boat before, although a strap strikes me as potentially "friendlier.". I guess I will check to see what the winch rating is, since I read on another thread that they are sometimes undersized to begin with. The upper of the two bow rollers is missing a section. It also seems like maybe there should be something (a roller? a support?) beneath the bottom of the stem.
IMG_3252.jpg

Brake actuator was filled with rust flakes (and the brake lines were basically toast as well).
IMG_3254.jpg

Thanks for everyone's input :thup Once I get the trailer squared away, I can actually think about the boat!
 
A few more questions.

1) Bunk carpeting. The previous bunk carpeting was stapled onto the sides of the bunks - that's obvious. Is that the best way to go back or is there something better than staples when it's not being done in a trailer factory? (side note: you would think monel staples would be easier to find in a saltwater state!)

1a) How is the carpeting usually installed over or around the fasteners that hold the bunks to the trailer? Does it usually (or optimally) go right over the fasteners? Is it cut out in a circle around them to leave them exposed?

2) Not sure what these are called, but the "half moons" that were installed vertically on the inside of the wheelwells (now removed rotten carpet covered ply). Is the boat typically going to rub up against these when launching/retrieving? I'm guessing yes, since they were carpeted, but if not, then I probably would not carpet the new ones.

2a) Has anyone made these out of anything better than plywood (with the end grain facing up)? Azek? Hmm, now that I think of it I probably have some scraps of thinnish fiberglass board, but of course not with me.

3) Opinions on strap vs. wire rope on the winch? Current winch is a Fulton T2025, which is "2000 lbs., 2-Speed, 1.75" Hub." It had wire rope on it with an eye-strap type thing/small carriage bolts to hold the bitter end. I had thought about going back with a strap (not sure why... just seemed "friendlier"), but maybe that's not advisable? (I'm guessing that because I would have to modify the strap bitter end to make it "stick" to the winch and so maybe winch drums are meant for either wire rope OR straps, but not interchangeably?)

4) Is there any good reason to use other than basic Dot-whatever-it-calls-for brake fluid? Do the surge/disc brakes benefit at all from anything fancier?

5) Just a note: I found cypress for the bunks :thup

6) Still hemming and hawing over tires/rims. I was unable to get confirmation from Magic Tilt one way or the other on whether they use the same fender for both trailers (13" and 14" wheel versions of same model); guess I will have to measure to be sure. Also... there simply seems to be no clear-cut "good" ST radial to get. :cry Additionally, two suppliers today told me that tires on the galvanized rims they sell cannot be balanced (I guess because the galvanizing is such low quality that it is "globby.") Is this an informed opinion or just a myth? I do want to be able to balance the tires. They suggested painted or aluminum rims for more consistency, neither of which were at the top of my list.

Thanks for any thoughts you care to contribute. I really just want to play with the boat, darnit! :o

:hot
 
Somewhere in here I saw you mention Electric over Hydraulic for the trailer brakes. I just bought a 2007 C-dory that came with an EZ-Loader trailer, tandem axle, with hydraulic surge brakes on the back axle. Actually, I was pretty impressed and how smooth it worked coming home. (400 miles.) However, I've always ended up with straight electric brakes on my boat trailers, and like having the added control. I have started wondering about going to an electric over hydraulic system myself with this trailer. Looks like a conrol motor however (the part that takes the electric signal from the tow vehicle and changes it into hydraulic pressure via it's own little motor) can be kind of expensive; $500 and up. I can replace the entire brake system with electric for less than that, but would never be able to go to disk brakes if that was my choice later. So leaving the hydrualic system on the trailer does seem to have some advantage. But has anyone else used the electric over hydraulic system, and if so, how do you like it?
 
Cypress, -- WOW. Now that is not MOE, (Manufactures Original Equipment) I think. Pacific Trailers uses Doug fir, not evne pressure treated, I rebuilt my trailer with a very strange sounding version of Philippian mahogany, tight grain, clear and later on 7 coats of spar varnish. Then covered that with bunk carpet and it all looks the same, BUT, it will last as long as the boat.

Use monel staples unless you want them rusted out in now time.

Most carpets cover the fasteners. I did mine too, but I did not use carrigae bolts. I used Stainless Steel bolts, cut the heads off and bent them into an "L" shape, putting then vertical part of the "L" down the hole, and routed out a slot into the board for the "L" leg to fit down into. That way I could tighten the nuts from below. Also, I could loosen them and add shimming if needed to fit the boat.

I also beveled the center aft corner of the center bunks to let the bow ride up and down on that with less marking on the hull. It also works to get the trailer deeper into the water.

I like the "half moons" idea. Will work on that. Great to keep the wet road splatter off the hull.

I agree, the strap is much more user friendly. I think mine came with an either/or hub. I like the strap, now wire slivers, no rusty, bent, wire mess, and did I say NO WIRE SLIVERS.

Again, go with the 14" tires, and the best tires, wheels combo you can afford. That is what is keeping your boat up off the road.

Good luck and smooth towing.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

January_2010_052.thumb.jpg
 
hardee":8w9xgoxf said:
Cypress, -- WOW. Now that is not MOE, (Manufactures Original Equipment) I think.
Click to expand...

I sure never would have used it up north. But after I did some reading, it sounded like a great bunk material and it's "local" here - so I thought it would be neat to find some. Even so, the trailer place suggested it would be impossible to find or super expensive, and suggested I should pick up pressure-treated lumber at HD or Lowe's. Seeing how the original bunks twisted, and knowing how (at least in my experience) treated lumber is usually not the best wood to begin with, I decided to look for cypress. I found a sawmill and went there. They had stacks of gorgeous, 2 x 6 rough cypress out in a field. That looked a bit *too* thick (it was a real 2") and I worried that it would not bend properly to make the bunk shape. So I had them surface/reduce it with a planer. I kind of hated to see that beautiful wood turned into shavings! I also didn't want to go too thin. I kind of guessed and had them reduce it to 1-5/8" (the originals are 1-1/2"). I hope it won't still be too stiff. My car sure smelled good for awhile :D

Funny thing is that when I called the sawmill to inquire, they told me they send a lot of cypress to Magic Tilt for bunk boards. That said, the original bunks on my Magic Tilt do not seem like cypress. Maybe it's an added option or a new feature.

hardee":8w9xgoxf said:
I rebuilt my trailer with a very strange sounding version of Philippian mahogany...then covered that with bunk carpet and it all looks the same.
Click to expand...

I know - I hate having to cover up this nice wood with carpet (and the moisture/salt it will help to hold there), but I guess something is necessary.

hardee":8w9xgoxf said:
Use monel staples unless you want them rusted out in now time.
Click to expand...

I spent quite a bit of time looking for them yesterday. I thought they would be easier to find in a boaty/salty place, but no. I got a lot of blank looks. I would have ordered them from McMaster (which was also the only place I could find the torque washers for the bunk fasteners), but apparently they take two days to deliver here instead of the overnight I'm spoiled with. Funny thing is that late last night, in desperation, I checked Home Depot's web site and they showed "galvanized staples".... but they had come up when I searched monel ? Looked at the photo of the package they had for that item and it was a container of Stanley monel staples. I'll find out if that's true today.

hardee":8w9xgoxf said:
I also beveled the center aft corner of the center bunks to let the bow ride up and down on that with less marking on the hull. It also works to get the trailer deeper into the water.
Click to expand...

Ah, good idea. I was thinking I would want to ease the edges of the bunk boards a bit - just to keep the carpet from wearing across them if nothing else.

hardee":8w9xgoxf said:
I like the "half moons" idea. Will work on that. Great to keep the wet road splatter off the hull.
Click to expand...

Just for the record, it wasn't my idea; the trailer had existing plywood "half moons" covered in carpet that matched the bunks. I was just thinking all trailers had that, and that I would replace them similarly.

hardee":8w9xgoxf said:
Again, go with the 14" tires, and the best tires, wheels combo you can afford. That is what is keeping your boat up off the road.
Click to expand...

It's amazing how hard it is to *find* good 14" rims and tires, even when that's what I'm looking for. There sure are a lot of "odd" brand names floating around. Any recommendations?

Thanks for all your notes!
 
If by chance your new rims end up being the white painted style, do this;
1/ scuff them with a grey scotchbrite pad. (lightly)
2/ wipe off and lay a neat bead of white , paintable good quality
caulking around the seam.
3/ let dry overnight
4/ mask up the tires
5/ clearcoat the entire rim front and back.
I have done this for many trailers. It keeps the rust from getting into that seam. It makes them easier to keep clean and better looking for many years. An automotive (bodyshop) clearcoat will last the best, but if that proves too expensive - you can buy an aerosol can.

Harvey is correct, it is not "ideal" to mix tires of different dia. Using 13" on 1 side and 14" on the other would be a "get home" fix. It would not pose a problem as long as you were aware and adjusted your speed and driving accordingly. If your budget allows- go for new spares. I have seen too many trailer spares with 0 treadwear in the scrap pile because their sidewalls were severely weather checked, making them unsafe to use. Boat trailers are particularly succeptable to this as they often sit for an entire season exposed to the sun. In a trailer park most campers cover their tires to prevent this, but for some reason boaters don't seem to think of this. This is why (being a miser) I would use 2 of my old ones for spares. A spare is something we hope never to have to use but it must be useable or its not worth lugging around.
Good luck, Regards Rob
 
Well, as it turns out I don't think 14" tires will fit on my trailer without doing something more involved such as getting different fenders.

I thought I had done my homework. First, I looked up my trailer and the one "above" it and the dimensions and weight seemed the same but the other one had 14" wheels. I thought that might be the only difference. Next, I looked for Magic Tilt's phone number on their website, figuring a quick phone call might sort it out. I couldn't find a phone number for them on their website, so I looked up a dealer and called them to inquire.

The dealer didn't know, but said he would check with Magic Tilt. The next day he called back and said Magic Tilt had not really given a satisfactory answer, but that from what he could tell, they were likely the same trailer except for the wheels (he apparently did all he could but it didn't really give me warm feelings toward Magic Tilt - I like the option of giving a quick call directly to a company). At any rate, I then planned to go with the 14-inchers.

Today I tried one and....not a fit. The fender does not seem to have enough clearance. Rats! Double rats because since I did not order the Load Range D 13"-ers, I had to go out and buy a set of locally available Load Range C ones. I guess they will be acceptable for now, since the boat is relatively light (i.e. not crammed with gear yet), but still...a bit frustrating.

Today I kind of started questioning the whole thing...I mean, isn't it supposed to be fun? Gee, I haven't even spent fifteen minutes on the boat yet and instead I'm "trapped" in trailer repairs (away from home). Yeah....a bit frustrated. I would much rather be on my way to the Friday Harbor gathering to meet some C-Brats and actually experience the 22! Well, I feel better just having vented a bit...thanks for listening.
 
After looking at the picture of your trailer my suggestion is:

Use it to bring your boat home or to a slip so the trailer is home and unloaded.
Then I would TAKE MY TIME in redoing it. Investigate all of the options/prices/need to do etc..
I would tear off all of the old carpeting and install teflon strips and no new carpeting. I would also pitch out those fender "boards" and forget them.
The trailer looks to be in reasonable good shape. You can pull it home w/o brakes if your tow rig is not too small. Using a flat decked wrecker is a good idea also to get your boat home, then do the trailer at your leasure.
My though also is you are being too anal about it.
I have pulled 4 boats from the PNW to Alaska without any problems except one blow out on an old used up car tire. The trailer was supposed to have new tires, it didn't.
Good luck in your project but hurry will get you in trouble or needless expense.
 
I don't think anyone can be to anal about their trailer set up. Especially if that trailer is going to be used more than the boat! I agree with you of just pulling it home as is, if it is safe and one is confident it'll hold up for the trip. Like you said, just better to have the tools and time at your leisure to do it right.
 
It's possible I'm being too "anal" about it - that's probably partly just my personality, but also partly the circumstances (which I didn't go too far into because I posted in the trailer sub-forum vs. the "general chat" one and so didn't want to distract from the trailer info and/or bore anyone to death).

At any rate, I'm not going to be taking the boat/trailer home from here. Firstly because I'm not going to base it on the East Coast at all, and secondly because my initial reason for purchasing a C-Dory is to make a summer cruise in the PNW this year.

So, unless I change my plans, I'll be trailering 3,000+ miles from here to there. Although I've made plenty of trips in "non-perfect" vehicles and situations over the years (and luckily not had any real disasters), I want this one to be fun, and for me nowadays that means reducing worry as much as reasonably possible (of course with trailering it's always on one's mind to a certain extent).

Plus, although I could still have a problem enroute (let's hope I don't, of course), I would feel like a real heel if I had a problem on the road that hurt or damaged someone else or their property, and I hadn't done what I reasonably could to improve the trailer prior to the drive.

I did look for a boat closer to the PNW, but for one reason or another I didn't end up buying one there (that location would have made it easier from the trailering perspective, but made it a lot harder from the shopping perspective due to the distance).

I had initially planned on storing the boat elsewhere while the trailer was worked on at a leisurely pace, but for various reasons I'm doing it now (while I wait) instead. One thing I did not want to do was let the summer melt away while I looked for a boat or etc. (I'm originally from up north, so I know how easily that can happen), so that factored into the mix (I started looking for a boat months ago).

Anyway, with any luck I will be able to reunite boat and trailer today. The trailer now has new bunks, new disc brakes on both axles, a new brake actuator, new bearings and seals, new tires, new wiring, and mostly new lights (kept the original clearance lights for now, but replaced the taillights).

On the "half moons" that cover the inside of the wheelwells, you're saying that I can/should run without those? That's one thing I was not able to replace while here (no jigsaw along, plus I have more suitable wood at home), and I was wondering whether the boat would then tend to touch/scrape the inside of the fender (vs the carpeted "half moon") and/or get road debris thrown up onto it through that gap. I take it that doesn't happen? In other words, are they just an unnecessary cosmetic extra, or do they do a job?

(I can still replace those before the long trip; today's mission is just to reunite the boat and trailer and tow them to a nearby storage facility. I still have to come back with my tow vehicle for the big trip.)
 
My 2-cents on the bunks. I remade the bunks on my trailer and used pressure-treated 1x6 decking. Each bunk was made up of three pieces held together with Gorilla Glue. Most pressure treated lumber always seems to warp and twist unless you get the stuff that's kiln-dried after treatment. Gorilla Glue works well with pressure-treated stock from most lumber yards since it's loaded with moisture that helps kick the glue. The lamination will help to reduce twisting and is much stronger than a single piece of solid lumber. So far, they're rock solid and no twisting.
 
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