propellers for 25 c-dory with twin 90 hondas
- Thread starter dwilks
- Start date
Compared to aluminum props Stainless steel are
stronger, harder to bend, slicker (more polished), easier to make in more sophisticated shapes, more expensive, and will give you (properly selected) faster speeds, more gas mileage, less corrosion, and higher repair bills when they're damaged.
Aluminum props are cheaper, slower, offer less gas mileage, cheaper to repair and replace, corrode easier, and less likely to be stolen off your boat/motor.
Best of both worlds:
Get stainless prop(s) for normal use, and aluminum for back-ups and when you're operating in shallow water.
My 2 cents!!
Joe. :teeth :thup
stronger, harder to bend, slicker (more polished), easier to make in more sophisticated shapes, more expensive, and will give you (properly selected) faster speeds, more gas mileage, less corrosion, and higher repair bills when they're damaged.
Aluminum props are cheaper, slower, offer less gas mileage, cheaper to repair and replace, corrode easier, and less likely to be stolen off your boat/motor.
Best of both worlds:
Get stainless prop(s) for normal use, and aluminum for back-ups and when you're operating in shallow water.
My 2 cents!!
Joe. :teeth :thup
I have 13.5"D x 15"P aluminum 3-blade props on my CD25 with twin Yami 80's, they're essentially perfect for the various loads I carry. I think i could go with 16"P, but not 17's with same diameter. You need to hear from those with your same engine setup. Hope this helps.
colbysmith
Active member
To be honest, I never really noticed a difference running SS vs. Aluminum on a prior boat, a SeaRay 268 Sundancer with single 454 Merc. But regarding your bent Aluminum Props. Had that been a SS prop, what kind of damage might it have done to your lower unit? No thanks. I'd just as soon stick with something cheaper that breaks easier than the more expensive part of my drive gear! Colby