Moldy window seals

J

jflug

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C Dory Year
1981
C Dory Model
22 Angler
Hull Identification Number
023
Vessel Name
Pescadory
I remember reading somewhere about C-Dory Classic owners complaining about stain and mold on the exterior of the window seals. Searched in the archive but couldn't find it. Anyway, I think I found the solution - it's the under-bowl toilet cleaner you can get at the grocery store. Basically just bleach in a gel form that will stick to a vertical surface for awhile. I used it yesterday on the grungy window seals on my '81 Classic. Brush it on with an old toothbrush, let it sit for awhile, and wash it off. After about 3 or 4 applications yesterday, the seals are back to looking like new again.

Jim
 
Jim,
Acetone or brush cleaner will work too. Just be sure and wear the proper personal protective equipment-nitrile gloves, solvent mask, eye protection, etc.

Mike
 
....just like I do when I clean the toilet.
 
I wondered what would do the trick. I used Clorox straight out of the bottle and apparently didn't leave it long enough. I'll try the gel formula tomorrow.

The seals on my boat have also apparently shrunk leaving about an eighth of an inch gap where the ends used to meet. I was considering simply filling the gap with marine silicone, but don't know if that might have an adverse effect on the rubber. Any ideas?

Tom
 
Tom-

I'd use a rubber like windshield glass sealer rather than a silicone if compatibility is an issue. Joe.
 
Joe,

I went out to buy some windshield glass sealer, and it was silicone. Didn't see any other options at the auto store. Hmmm... Don't know if I want to use it if it's not marine silicone. Maybe I'll stick with that.

Jim,

Tried the toilet bowl cleaner on the window seals and they look great. Like you said, maybe more applications will complete the process, but WOW...



Tom
 
Tom- I recently rebedded a lexan plastic lid in a hatch cover. I used silicone, but there was no compatibility issue because I removed all the soft, pliable, rubber bedding compound that was the original.

Could well be that the auto and perhaps the marine industry have switched over to silicone adhesives/bedding compounds for glass.

I'd try the silicone on a small area to see how it reacts and adheres to the original compound when using it for a repair.

I doubt there[s much difference between household, auto, and marine intended silicone products except for the price. Yes, there are different types of silicone sealers, etc., but those black ones with "marine"on their tubes are probably just more expensive than the auto variety.

I learned to watch this phenomena from 3M (Minesota Mining and Manufacturing).

Masking tape can be sold as masking tape, freezer tape, drafting tape (obsolete now), or a number of other products. They differ widely in the price, but you can't tell one from the other if you don't look at the label. There are hundreds of examples of this, and not just from 3M.

Do any of you know if the story is true that 3M was founded by three guys in the Minesota State Penetentiary who decided they had to get a legitimate business agle going so they could stay out of prison?

(B~C should know about such matters.)

Legitimate Joe.
 
Sea Wolf":3llvauua said:
Do any of you know if the story is true that 3M was founded by three guys in the Minesota State Penetentiary who decided they had to get a legitimate business agle going so they could stay out of prison?
Click to expand...
According to this article it was started by by five brothers, the Butlers, who incorporated 3M on the North Shore of Lake Superior at Two Harbors, Minnesota in 1902.
 
We're having troubles with the windows on journey on as follows:

1. The window latches keep falling off. The factory sent us new ones, but even these come loose, ond it's exciting to see if you can keep it from falling in the water. Any suggestions?

2. The top furry seals keep slipping down, and thus the windows don't open. This combines with No. 1, and one becomes really upset. Any more suggestions?

Boris
 
One other substance you can use that is more efficient than bleach is Hydrogen Peroxide. At the drug store it comes in 3% peroxide concentrations. Hydorgen peroxide is a stronger oxidizer than bleach (household bleach 6% Sodium Hypochlorite) and less strong as the gas Ozone. The good thing about liquid Hydrogen Peroxide is it only affects the surfaces you apply it to. Ozone on the otherhand is a gas and will diffuse into every nook and cranny in a confined space, such as in the cabin of a boat. Not especially a good idea.
I personally use industrial grade Hydrogen Peroxide (35%) and cut it to < 10% solution. You HAVE to use rubber gloves at that strength because it will attack flesh with a vengeance. You just wipe it on in one stroke and wipe and rinse with water in the next stroke.

Hope this helps... Butch.
 
MikeMac":2sjza83p said:
Jim,
Acetone or brush cleaner will work too. Just be sure and wear the proper personal protective equipment-nitrile gloves, solvent mask, eye protection, etc.

Mike
Click to expand...

Be VERY carefuly if you do use acetone around anything plastic or anything that is glued. Acetone is a pretty good solvent and will eat plexiglass, plastic and most glues pretty quick.
 
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