Lewmar V700 Gospel

J

journey on

New member
This message is good news (gospel) for Lewmar V700 owners, at least those who are replacing V600s.

As I mentioned in a previous post, one problem I had with the V700 was that the rope part of the gypsy would not grab and pull up the old anchor rope unless I tailed it, though the chain part was OK. I bought Samson 6 plait line which worked better. Clearly the new V700 gypsy wasn't as good/direct/strong/sharp as the old V600 gypsy.

So, whilst disassembling the V600 to see why it failed, I though I'd try the old gypsy on the new V700 windlass. It was a perfect fit, after I drilled out the hole for the stripper bar, since the new windlass used a larger bolt to secure it. Works just great, and grabs the rope like heck. Other than that hole, everything is the same size.

I used the V700 gypsy drive cap (which holds the gypsy down, ) since the thread which screws onto the drive pinion is now a blind hole, and prevents water from corroding the pinion threads.

BTW, the V700 came with a relay and microswitch to control the relay. I used the old V600 switch, which is a stout switch, with no trouble for the summer. I'm now installing the relay. C-Dory, as usual, did a good installation and used #8 cable from the battery to the windlass. I wish I could say the same for the Lawerence wires, which are somewhat smaller.

As to those whom this article drives to buying another windlass, may I suggest a Maxwell? Installed one on a sailboat and worked well. Those of us whose boat came with a Simpson-Lewmar V600 are better off buying the V700. Wonder what happened to Mr. Simpson? Perhaps he didn't want to make the trip to Thailand?
 
I disassembled the Lewmar 600 winch to see if I could rebuild it. Here's what I found. Grit/sand from the anchor rode had entered the gearbox, made a good grinding paste, and then migrated down to the motor. You can see the grit that came out of the motor on the lower right hand corner, a fist full. That's only the grit from the motor, there must be more than that mixed in with the grease. All the bearings are frozen and the motor doesn't turn. This winch is scrap.

Leewmar_winch_1.jpg

Here's a close up of the gearbox, showing (not too well,) the grit and water mixed in with the grease. That must be a cruddy seal they used. I can only pray that the V700 has a better seal, though it has the same motor. The V600 lasted for 5 seasons, that's all.


Lewmar_Gearbox.jpg

After looking at this winch, I think the horizontal winches are better, since the grit from the rode doesn't fall directly on the seal. We had a Maxwell horizontal winch on Our Journey, worked well for 10 years and I assume is still working well.

Boris
 
Boris-

Nice report!

I have a Quick 500 vertical style windlass with a different arrangement for the motor. It is at a horizontal angle underneath the winch with a right-angle drive joint housing a worm gear. Perhaps the seal in this position is less susceptible to water intrusion, and/or just a better engineering solution. Or just a better seal (!). Anyway, I've never had a problem with it, although I use it mostly in fresh water and not in heavy sand applications.

quick_aries_300W_gypsy.jpg


Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Joe,

I've been looking at your Quick 500 windlass and thinking about it. I hope it's the Aires model, though they all look about the same. And, another thought, it also looks as if you and I are the only ones that care.

Your windlass is a better design in that if grit gets in, it will not get into the motor. However, as a minimum the gypsy rides on a vertical shaft, mounted on a couple of bearings and a gear to transmit the power. So, your windlass, and any vertical windlass, has the problem of sealing a gearbox against the sand and mud that an anchor rode pulls up. And, by the way, the Aries manual indicates the whole gearbox is under the gypsy.

Finally, I was wondering how long your windlass has be in service? Lake Shasta has a lot of mud and grit washed down from the hills surrounding it, so I would think that if it's lasted a long time, you've got a good one. They must have thought about sealing, Italy vs England.

With best thoughts, Boris
 
journey on":397bedkf said:
Joe,

I've been looking at your Quick 500 windlass and thinking about it. I hope it's the Aires model, though they all look about the same. And, another thought, it also looks as if you and I are the only ones that care.

Your windlass is a better design in that if grit gets in, it will not get into the motor. However, as a minimum the gypsy rides on a vertical shaft, mounted on a couple of bearings and a gear to transmit the power. So, your windlass, and any vertical windlass, has the problem of sealing a gearbox against the sand and mud that an anchor rode pulls up. And, by the way, the Aries manual indicates the whole gearbox is under the gypsy.

Finally, I was wondering how long your windlass has be in service? Lake Shasta has a lot of mud and grit washed down from the hills surrounding it, so I would think that if it's lasted a long time, you've got a good one. They must have thought about sealing, Italy vs England.

With best thoughts, Boris
Click to expand...

Boris-

Nice to hear from you!

Yes, the model is an Aires!

I installed it not long after we moved to Redding from the Bay Area when we retired in 2003, so it's going on 9 years of service.

It seems sealed well, but I don't allow any mud or sand to get into it. If the chain or anchor are dirty, I usually just back the boat up and let the water flush them off throughly before resuming the retrieve.

I've never re-packed the gear box, but inspect the windlass externally for the appearance of leaks or compromised fittings every year. I'm thinking that I don't want to open the seals up for fear that they won't re-seal properly.

Moose also bought one at the same time I did, and we did have some problems with the gypsy passing the thicker braided joint between the chain and the three-strand rope.

The solution was three-fold:

1. I added a booster spring externally to help push the Fleming (pressure finger) tighter against the rode and into the gypsy's teeth/chain pockets.

2. I developed a different splice, wherein, instead of weaving all three strands of the rope back down the chain, two of them are woven forward into the chain, being sewn at each crossing (link) together, and the third strand is woven backward into the rope similar to the traditional splice. This splice is considerably smaller in diameter through the joining area than the traditional one, and passes more easily.

3. The third part of the solution was to change over to a 100 foot section of chain instead of 20 feet. This allows most anchoring to be done on chain alone without the rope, and the chain does not slip in the chain pockets, period! The extra chain also assists in holding the bow down in chop and balancing the typical overloaded stern encountered with the CD-22 and a big 4-stroke engine , in this case a 90 hp Yamaha.

Booster Spring:
IM000869.sized.jpg

New Splice: (Click on photo for more to illustrate technique.)
IM001961.jpg

There are discussions of these problems, solutions, and techniques in the Anchoring Section of the Forums.

I have a Simpson Lawrence Horizon Express 1500 on my Sea Ray, and, yes, the basic horizontal design seems simpler and helps keep mud and sand out of the gear box and motor.

However, it would be even more exposed to salt and water spray in heavy seas, being up on the foredeck.

(The 1500 is a BRUTE, by the way!)

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
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