Honda 90-4 Stroke Winterization process

L

Levity

New member
Hi Folks,
Last time I winterized my Honda 90 I made notes detailing the process. Those notes are posted here:

Winterize Honda 90

Oil 10W30 4.2 Qts without filter
Filter Part# 154000-PLM-A01 fits 75 thru 225 was $9.95
Lower unit gear oil
Racor filter
In line fuel filter
Spark Plugs NGK # 98069-5771P
Fogging oil
Small funnel and hose fuel container
Gear oil pump

Top off tanks and add fuel preservative.
Attach Muffs
Run engine to warm oil
Shut fuel off
Run until engine starves off
Drop cloth below lower unit
Catch pan
10&12 mm sockets plus extension
Water bottle with bottom cut out and semi circle opening at top and string tied to neck of bottle
Open drain plug access 10mm
Attach bottle with string by wrapping string once around lower unit so that the bottle remains in position to catch and direct the waste oil into the catch pan
Access drain plug from semi circle in bottle
Remove drain plug and direct fast moving stream of oil into pan
Lift dipstick to open vacuum
Remove spark plugs
Fog cylinders
With plugs out manually spin engine with lanyard
Replace old plugs
Once all oil is drained from engine -replace and tighten drain plug
Tilt engine to max horizontal
Tuck rag under oil filter
Use filter wrench to remove oil filter
Lube new rubber seal, lube threads, clean seat and screw on new filter, and tighten as prescribed on canister
Lower engine to vertical position
Fill engine with 4.2 quarts of 10W30 oil then check to top off
Place catch pan under lower unit
Remove lower unit gear oil inspection port
Check for water
Remove lower unit drain screw
Allow to drain
Check for metal filings in drain oil and on magnetized drain screw
Once all oil has drained from lower unit
Insert filler end of gear oil tube into drain screw opening and squeeze contents of tube into lower unit until it begins to flow out inspection port. Or use pump to pump fresh oil into lower unit.
Thread inspection screw into inspection port while keeping pressure on gear oil tube. Quickly remove tube from drain screw hole and immediately replace drain screw. Check both lower unit screws for proper tightness.
Remove stainless cotter pin from prop, remove castle nut and washer just inboard from castle nut then remove prop. Clean prop shaft and hub. Grease with water resistant grease. Replace prop, washer, castle nut and new cotter pin.
Drain Racor fuel filter and water separator
Using filter wrench, remove filter and water separator chamber together
Remove water separator chamber from disposable filter cartridge
Lubricate plastic threads on chamber and thread onto new filter
Screw combined unit onto Racor body
Remove inline fuel filter for cleaning or replacement
Clean or replace inline fuel filter
Loosen each carburetor drain screw and catch drained fuel in absorbent cloth, retighten screws. Spray WD 40 on power head. Replace engine cover.
Grease zert fittings on lower unit and clean old grease as it squeezes out from joints.
Use helm to turn engine completely to expose steering cable shaft. Clean shaft with WD40. Repeat process until certain of cleanliness. Grease exposed shaft with waterproof grease.
Apply waterproof grease to power tilt shafts.
Disconnect and remove batteries. Clean terminals, place on a wooden pallet in basement and slowly charge to max.
Clean up and wait till spring.
 
Levity,

Whew! That seems like an lot of work. It would be easier to move to the Puget Sound area of the State of Washington and you could use your C-Dory twelve months of the year and never have to winterize your engines! :wink
 
Dave,

Boy do I agree. Don't do any of that. Too busy cleaning fish, cracking crab, and eating shrimp. From now 'til DaNag gets here in the spring the fishing is GREAT. Look out Sequim, here I come :lol:

Dusty
 
sound like not only work, but a loss of fishing time. One of my neighbor asked me when I was going to stop boating? I answered " when I die". i fished the sierra mountains for german browns on christmass eve four years straight and that was in a 12ft open boat. If I had a C-dory then I would have slept on it the night before. I hope never to have to store my c-dory for the winter.
 
Great post Levity. Thanks as the 19 I'm interested in has a H 90. Also on the right coast and have a question.
Everyone has to change their oil in the engine and in the lower unit, right?
A future C-Dory owner here and don't plan on the cold wx keeping me out of the water on the Chesapeake.
Bill
 
I agree with most all of that except the fogging. I find that the lubricant (which is what it is) gets very well distributed in the system when spray it into the engine air intake as the engine is using up the last of its fuel. That way it gets all over the inside of the engine. I then remove the plugs, spray a liberal amount into the cylinders and crank it over a little bit to do a good job wetting down the cylinders and put the plugs back in. I don't put in the new plugs until the spring.

Sure does smoke when it first starts in the spring but that way I know the fogging oil has gotten all over the inside of the engine and is all burned up when the fog quits.

Charlie
 
Very thought out and informative - Two thoughts:

1. With the new additive in gas - been given us in NJ troubles -the recommendation is now to leave your gas tanks empty over the winter since the gas deteriorates quickly even with fuel stabilizer.

2. With fuel stabilizer running through your fuel system their is no reason to drain your carbs or fog your engine - in fact I understand that leaving fuel in the carbs all winter keeps the gaskets lubricated - in the spring I drain the fuel from the cars before I restart. Wondering if this is still the way to go with the new additive in gas?

# 2 has been my past procedure - #1 always topped off my tanks to for all the reasons (article in Soundings indicating that empty tanks for storage is the est way to go).

Comments??

Ken
 
Thanks for your responses.

DaveS, Sawdust, and Starcrafttom, you do live in a great place with a climate more suitable to year round boating. However, moving there would require a bit more work than is needed to winterize my engine.

Nick, The specificity is required to overcome my CRS. (Can't Remember ...Stuff)

Charlie, Your method would have the added beneficial effect of coating the internal passages as well.

ken120, The full tank vs. empty tank and the dry carb vs. wet carb debates both have solid reasoning and knowledgeable advocates. It is easier to fill the tanks at the end of the season than it is to empty them so I have chosen to follow the full tank theory for fuel storage. So far, so good. Last year my fuel sat in my tanks for eight months before being used. All turned out well but the subject deserves constant review.
 
Wow that is some list....down here in so. cal this is when I use my c-dory the most!!! Lobster season starts oct 15th can't wait...shot's of lipator 4 everyone!! Cheer's Ya'LL
 
Levity,

Agree with most of your tedium, but can't go with the WD-40. I like it for hiding my human (I guess) scent on lures, so I spray them all with WD-40. It's also great for starting my old Honda lawnmower - but it does not retain much protection over a long period of time. Much better stuff is available.

Of course, being an old fud, I do not believe in leaving our current gasoline in carbs. I run 'em dry, and drain. There is a good "preserving" section in the Honda Maint. Manual - not sure it's in the Owner's Manual. If not for gasoline left in carbs the EQ mechanics wouldn't have to work all winter :lol:

Dusty
 
ECHOE14 wrote:

Wow that is some list....down here in so. cal this is when I use my c-dory the most!!! Lobster season starts oct 15th can't wait...shot's of lipator 4 everyone!! Cheer's Ya'LL
Click to expand...

I had to double-check the lobster season opening date down here, it is Sept 30 at 12am. We're planning on a dive at the islands.

Hey, got a question, we hoop-netted for 2 seasons at all the 'hot' spots we could find by reading, other persons, etc, have never caught a bug, even undersize. How in the world were you able to nab so many?
 
Good job and very detailed. Spin it to a SOP

A typical SOP containss:

A Header which shows the Title of the SOP, Original Issue Date, Revision/Review Date, number of pages contained in the SOP, who wrote the SOP, and the Approval Signature.
* purpose and scope
* definitions
* materials and equipment needed
* safety concerns,
* who is responsible
* step-by step procedure with identification and emphasis of "critical steps"
* records to be kept
* copies of forms to be used
* references.

add a flow chart and annual competency review


again good job and still at work, revising some SOPs for an inspection.
 
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