Fishing the Queen Charlotte Islands

C

CAVU

New member
I have been researching the idea of a fishing trip to the Queen Charlotte Islands next summer. I was wondering if any C-Brats have any experience or info about the area? Everything I have found on-line looks promising. I would tow the C-Dory to Prince Rupert and take the ferry to Skidegate. From there it appears to be a 1-2 hour drive north to Masset. I haven't found any info about launch ramps or fishing areas yet. Many fishing charters advertise trips from Masset, and of course the fishing is always fantastic! Anyone with first hand experience?
 
I don't know anything about the fishing in the Queen Charlottes per se but I am very interested in trailering up to Prince Rupert next summer and then running up to Ketchikan from there. I may end up going to the Broughtons with Roger and Janet but my daughter asked if we could go to Alaska and I want to encourage her interest -- also it won't be long before she is too busy with a family or job to take off for weeks at a time.

Warren
 
Ken,

I've paddled the Charlottes some, and have traveled to Masset. It is more like two hours to Masset from Skidegate.

Try this guy for some local knowledge: http://www.moresbyexplorers.com/ Doug runs trips on the south island, but he knows the ropes up there. He can probably hook you up with someone that can give you the lowdown.
 
Ken,
I have been there a couple of times but not on my own boat, I stayed at a great resort and it was the best fishing I have experienced. I have considered the same trip and have looked into places to stay at Massart and have heard of others purchusing bait and fuel from from one of the lodges there. Since I have halibut in the freezer from Ucluelet thanks to your information last year, contact me and I will dig up the information I have.

Dan McNally.
 
Hi Ken,
Good to hear from you again. Shelley and I spent a week on Graham Island in September 2002 and stayed in Queen Charlotte City, Masset and at an empty fishing lodge. We didn't have our boat, but took the ferry from Prince Rupert with our kayak on top of our R.V.

It would be a real adventure to take a 22 C-Dory there. I think that you could launch in Masset and go around the corner to Naiden Sound where the fishing lodges are located. You can also find sheltered boating in the channels by Queen Charlotte City.

My best recommendation would be to go to Rennell Sound on the west coast of Graham Island. The locals told us it was crazy to try to get there, that we'd be killed by a logging truck and that if we survived we would be stranded because the rocks on the road were so sharp that they would tear our tires to shreds. We went to the logging company office and they were very helpful, they gave us the routes that were safe to travel on alternating days. The logging roads were the best I've ever seen. There is a steep descent the last mile or so into the sound, but you should be able to get back up it pulling a 22 with 4WD. We found an older couple there that had brought an old motor home down the road and they were doing fine.

We kayaked there and the only boat in the whole Sound was an abrasive local who ran a primitive halibut charter from there. It is pristine, empty and beautiful. Probably the only safe small boating on the west coast of the Queen Charlottes. We didn't fish, but saw streams filled with returning salmon. People said that if you could stand to go fishing with the guy who ran the halibut charter, you would get your limit quickly.

At that time it was really remote outside of the towns. You need to be self sufficient. There was no cell coverage and you're pretty much on your own if you have a problem. I would probably carry two spare boat tires and two spare tires for the main vehicle. Masset isn't much of a town, we liked Queen Charlotte City better. There are marinas in both Masset and Queen Charlotte City. I have a book on small boating in the Queen Charlottes that I lent El and Bill. I can't remember if I've gotten it back yet, but I'll check on it. I think it would be great help for exploring the area.

Very beautiful area with great wilderness, interesting/crazy locals and not too interesting towns. We didn't have our C-Dory then, but I've always dreamed of going back with our boat.
Lyle
 
Bess-C 's scan on Rennell Sound jives with my experience, also (dating 10 years ago, now). That last mile is rough but no problem for a 4WD-equipped pickup. The rest of the route is pretty standard gravel logging roads.

Rennell Sound is relatively unpopulated, and the waters blow up in the afternoon (good weather). I did not fish, but it looked fishy. I expect you would want some local knowledge about runs. The sockeye runs are in even years, IIRC.

The killer small boating guide is unfortunately out of print. It is Neil Frazer's Boat Camping Haida Gwaii A Small Vessel Guide to the Queen Charlotte Islands, ISBN 1-55017-256-5 -- Harbour Publsihsing, circa 2001. If you find one, snap it up.

The western shores of the Charlottes are wild, wooly, and barren of any services at all. Definitely for the adventurous.
 
Thanks for all the info. That must be some book-I just checked Amazon and they want $314 for a used copy! I have a call in to a place called Hidden Island RV Resort in Masset. Sounds like about what I am looking for. This trip will be purely a fishing trip and I think we would stick to the north shore of Graham. Three guys cruising on a C-Dory would be a little much for me. I hope to check out as many other areas as possible for future trips.

Lyle,
What type of RV were you using to travel the logging road? I have a 10 foot camper on my truck and towing the boat I would be a little leary of logging roads. Thanks again for the info.
 
CAVU,

There were big RV rigs down in Rennell Sound when I was there -- some campers, and a couple motor homes. I would not want to take a fancy motor home in there, but with enough clearance, a big camper should be OK. Logging roads are common transport in the Charlottes.

I've done a lot of sea kayaking out of the southern island, and although the fishing does not compare to that around Langara Island, the cruising and the scenery is spectacular. Lots of passenger vehicles travel to Moresby Camp, the llgical jumping off point for the southern island.

There are some good 'but spots down there, and the rockfishing is excellent. Again, there are no services down there -- it is not like cruising Desolation Sound.
 
Ken,
I had a Mitsubishi Montero SUV with a 21' double sea kayak on top. Not much weight and I was able to get places easily. Yes, I think a pickup with a camper pulling a boat might be a bit much for logging roads. However, at the time the logging roads that we saw were in great shape. Much better than the ones in our area. Wide, with very thick crushed rock coverage.

I think you should easily be able to fish out of Masset. The weather does blow up fast everywhere on the island, but you've got plenty of experience on the west coast of Vancouver Island, so with information from the locals you should be good to go. There used to be a few locals with guide services working out of Masset that could give you advice.

When we were visiting there wasn't much in the way of services in Masset. It might be a good idea to stock up at the grocery store in Queen Charlotte City before heading up island. Sounds like a fun trip.
Lyle
 
Ken,

There is an interesting book about a fellow who did a fair amount of cruising and fishing around The QC's and Vancouver Island, called "Day By Day to Alaska Queen Charlottes and Around Vancouver Island". It is from the mid 90's and was inspiring to me to want a boat like that (well, he was in a simular sized B-boat) and go where he did. Someday maybe.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Harvey,
I have that book and it is a good one. I went to his slide presentation at the boat show a few years ago. He has a lot of good info in his book but his cruising style is "high speed-get there quick-get back home" which didn't appeal to me. I'll go back and review his info about the Queen Charlottes. Thanks.
 
CAVU":yb6dz1ea said:
Lyle,
What type of RV were you using to travel the logging road? I have a 10 foot camper on my truck and towing the boat I would be a little leary of logging roads. Thanks again for the info.
Click to expand...

Personally I don't see a problem with truck camper and boat on logging road as long as its legal to be there. I worked as a logger for a season and then drove a off highway logging truck on very mountainous logging roads for two years following time in Army. If the trucks can meet and pass why should there be a problem with camper and boat. Just make sure you hug your side of the road on the curves

Jay
 
Used to be that they were all running CB's and would keep track of each other on the "road channel" Now, most of the Canadian big trucks are running a different radio, (more power and different frequencies, loosely termed "big radios") and you are not likely to be able to hear them coming or talking to each other. Might have some of those Central BC Brats may be able to chime in hear with some better current local knowledge.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Jay,
My concern was mostly about the gravel and dust/mud depending on the weather. I once towed a previous boat on a gravel logging road during dry season. It took me a long time to get the dirt out of the boat. It was thick on every surface of the boat. If this trip happens it will be a primarily fishing trip out of a set campground. I like to take the camper off to make daily launching and retrieving the boat easier. But while I have the camper off I will do some exploring of the area with an eye to future cruising trips. My preliminary research on-line shows many areas that would offer truly wilderness cruising and adventure. Looking at the maps it would be hard to get any farther off the beaten path and it's at least a 1000 miles closer than towing to Alaska.
 
Ken

It sounds like a great trip your planning and I agree its an area that does offer the real deal in wilderness cruising and adventure. Its not a area that I've considered in the past due to that long crossing from Prince Rupert. It does save you 1000 miles of one way trailering. It would be great to have you report back to the rest of us what you learn from exploring this area.

Your right to be concerned about the gravel, dust and mud and that mixed with heavy truck traffic on a logging road could present trouble. Lyle's comment on what the locals advised and what he actually experienced on the logging roads I found very interesting. Have ran into similar experiences also. Was advised by locals to not take our c-dory on the upper Yukon River and then found their concerns were overstated on the other hand when coming out of Ford's Terror we didn't give the advise enough credence. Sometimes its better to just go for it and have your own evaluation to make and of course sometimes not. I guess this is part of what can make these kind of endeavors be considered an adventure.

Jay
 
I've driven logging roads in the Charlottes, ferrying sea kayaks up top, in a small pickup, quite a bit. Expect a dust/mud bath, with some chance of the odd rock pinging the windshield, with consequent ding. If you've driven the road to Bamfield out of Port Alberni, you've had an experience similar to what the roads in the Charlottes have to offer. Some boaters on the latter shroud the bow with a protective cover (bow bra) to reduce gel coat chips.

Log trucks in BC are enormous, half-again-wider than log trucks in the states. And, because thoe roads are truly "private" roads, owned by the timber licensee, they run hard and can be intimidating. But, they are not out to run you off the road, although at times it might seem so. Now and then, they do not want you on specific sections.

The comment about "big radios" is accurate. Some VHF's (my ICOM M-88 handheld, for instance) have the capability to TX/RX on "land" frequencies, once you get the necessary HAM license. If you truly want to talk to those guys or listen to know when they are coming, I bet you could find out what frequencies they are using and dial those in. Somebody here must know more about this.

That said, I would avoid towing my boat a lot on those roads, just because of the rock dings, and wear and tear on the trailer. I won't tow to Bamfield, for example. I can run down from Port Alberni, on 30+ miles of inlet, and have a better experience, from a good launch ramp, in lieu of 50 miles of logging road and a sketchy ramp in Bamfield.
 
AstoriaDave":146sj6x3 said:
Log trucks in BC are enormous, half-again-wider than log trucks in the states. And, because thoe roads are truly "private" roads, owned by the timber licensee, they run hard and can be intimidating. But, they are not out to run you off the road, although at times it might seem so. Now and then, they do not want you on specific sections.
Click to expand...

Dave, that's the point I was trying to make in a earlier post. They used to run those same type trucks here in some areas in the States. They are the same off highway type trucks I drove in the early 70's (at that time they were only made by Mack and Peterbilt) and though like you said intimidating, the bigger the truck the more road it takes for them to pass each other when they meet, so smaller vehicles actually have more room to pass there then on most of our present logging roads here in the States.

Jay
 
Hunkydory":1nmptrj9 said:
Dave, that's the point I was trying to make in a earlier post. They used to run those same type trucks here in some areas in the States. They are the same off highway type trucks I drove in the early 70's (at that time they were only made by Mack and Peterbilt) and though like you said intimidating, the bigger the truck the more road it takes for them to pass each other when they meet, so smaller vehicles actually have more room to pass there then on most of our present logging roads here in the States.Jay
Click to expand...
Never knew they ran those babies down here.

You're right -- I've never run out of room most roads in BC, except for a few stretches where the road is actually only wide enough for one-way log truck traffic, and they keep you off those roads when the big guys are running (one-way only!). They coordinate their own trucks by radio to avoid head-ons. I've never been stupid enough to try to circumvent those restrictions.

Thanks for the clarification.

This discussion makes me long for the Charlottes. Lotta cool boating up there on the east side of Moresby -- even relatively protected.
 
From my experience driving logging (bush) roads if you clear the loads and call you kilometers remembering they are big and can't stop quickly you should have no problems, of course you would not even consider travelling these roads without the proper land frequency!
 
Well the die is cast. We departed this morning for Prince Rupert and eventually the Queen Charlottes. After many calls and a lot of internet research I decided to go with Hidden Island Resort. We will camp there for a month. My hope is to do a lot of fishing off the north shore of Graham Island, some exploring of the local area, and of course eat as much of the local seafood as possible.
We are at a campground in Cache Creek, BC. Left Spokane this AM and made 400 miles today. The temps today were amazing. We showed 102 degrees on the highway today just before reaching Cache Creek. I had no idea that BC got that hot.
 
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