Dish, Cutlery and Pot storage under sink cabinet CD 22

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Anyone have pics of what they did?

Is there a cooler available (just for what needs to be cold) that fits under the sink?

Thanks,
 
I try to organize dishes and cutlery like a zen practice on our boat( i read "zen and the motor cycle art of maintenance" ) paying attention as i go to our needs.When you see what you really need take your time and go for it even if it means making changes that are not easy, sometimes. Regarding pot storage, film canisters used to be a favorite of mine.
 
I did some thing very similar to far west. The best tip I have is to use strips of velcro to hold the boxes in place and the second level to the first.
 
This is a picture of our CD25 Daydream, but we did something almost identical on the CD22 Daydream, a David (Anna Leigh) design. The slide-out baskets are Reva-Shelf from Ovisonline.com.

PICT0026.sized.jpg
 
Pat,

Those pull outs are great, David showed me the same ones on Anna Leigh at Friday Harbor, but they are no longer available from Ovis. I poured through their website and the Reva Shelf products available don't even come close to what they used to make. Bummer!

I am thinking of making the frame from wood and then installing wire baskets and mounting on drawer slides, which is what you have, basically.

Pat, if you or anyone can find the ones you have, please post!

Thanks,

Patrick
 
I think that might be a better plan because our Reva-Shelf(s) / Shelves (since it is a brand name it probably is Reva-Shelfs, as odd as that looks!) did not hold up well to the marine environment, some of the plastic coating is peeling off and the wire baskets are rusting in spots. I was thinking about how to obtain the same functionality with drawer glides and some kind of wood framing as well. The only deal is that I an not a craftsman, and it would probably look like my stuff did in ninth grade woodshop (it took me all quarter to make one bookend).

Salmon Fisher":1gau9v96 said:
Pat,

Those pull outs are great, David showed me the same ones on Anna Leigh at Friday Harbor, but they are no longer available from Ovis. I poured through their website and the Reva Shelf products available don't even come close to what they used to make. Bummer!

I am thinking of making the frame from wood and then installing wire baskets and mounting on drawer slides, which is what you have, basically.

Pat, if you or anyone can find the ones you have, please post!

Thanks,

Patrick
Click to expand...
 
We have Sterilite brand plastic drawers that look similar to those on Yellowstone's boat though they sit in a plastic frame.
I bonded a cleat to the inside of the hull, screwed one to the inside of the cabinet front then installed slats on top of the cleats. The slats are screwed to the cabinit cleat only to prevent hull flex from stressing the cabinet. The hull side cleat is mounted about an inch lower than the cabinet cleat in an attempt to harness gravity's power to keep the drawers closed. The drawer frames are fastened to these slats.
The first stack is 12 3/8" wide X 16" high X 14 1/4" deep with 4 shallow drawers.
The next stack is 8 1/4" wide X 16" high X 14 1/4" deep with 2 deep drawers.
The last stack is 12 3/8" wide X 16" high X 14 1/4" deep with 2 deep drawers.
I replumbed the sink drain with a 90* fitting to make room for the drawers and removed the top shelf from the rear stack to make room for the cook top's exhaust.
Sorry, no photos.
 
Milehog - My drawers are Sterilite in plastic frames like yours. The bottom drawer frames are screwed into the floor above the sole, and the second level of drawer frames are screwed into a plywood piece between the two levels (both lower and upper frames) Thus both the drawers and the frames can be easily removed, if necessary. I find with the cabinet doors closed, the drawers do not slide out with the teak storage rack in their way. The system is very handy. The exhaust for the Wallas was routed out of the way when it was installed.

The most difficult construction was getting the teak finished floor (the piece with the piano hinge) level. The sole tapers differently underneath.I used three vertical plywood pieces with inserts on the bottom - similar to the legs on a washing machine which adjust to the irregularity of a floor. Once the floor was level, then I used L shaped brackets screwed to the vertical pieces and the sole itself. Access was via the lifted flap using a small right angle drill to drill starter holes.
 
Chester - the curtains are mounted on sticky back velcro. They are two piece: round bamboo slats backed by unbleached muslim attached at the top. Instantly removed or just left rolled up out of the way.

This system, in my judgment, is one of the better ones. Why"
1. cheap to make
2. curtains drop instantly and just hang there or are rolled up above the windows held by a bungee loop running from little J hook.
3. you never have to have the match up problem - which goes where
4, you never bruise your finger tips pushing snaps
5. your storage issue is solved
6. if you want to remove the curtains, just pull off the velcro

The area above the windows is the perfect place to store - like a roll up shade. John
 
Yellowstone -- in looking at the Far West II album, I was intrigued by the teak lazarette cover-covers. Could you explain what those are for?

Thanks,
Warren
 
Chester - those little bamboo slatted curtains were cut from a big window shade puchased from Home Depoe - readily available. What I first did was cut them vertically. This means that you will have to tie off the ends before you cut so the threads do not unravel. Tedious but do able. Next cut them for width. The blind needs to be rolled up as tight as you can get it. If you use a power chop saw many ends will be split and fray. I used the Japanese draw saw with fine cross cut teeth. It makes a nice cut.

You will have to sacrifice some rows of slats on the bottom in order to have enough thread to do double knots, which is what I did.

Unbleached muslim is used as a backer, with a pocket sewn on the bottom to run a 1/8 inch wooden dowel. This helps keep the cloth hanging straight and true. Also, when the curtain is rolled up, the dowels act as a director. The cloth part is attached to the top of the bamboo by hand sewing it to the bamboo.

Note: the two window on both sides without a divider are covered with one curtain, not two. To keep the curtains rolled in place, I used the little SS J hook (two screws) made by sea dog, with a loop of bungee cord. It just hangs on the hook with the curtains are down and then is pulled down and around the rolled curtain and hooked to the top when they are up. You made have to bend the hook in slightly to create a good friction fit. The curtains stay in in rough water. The system works well. Hope this is helpful.
John
 
Warren - the teak lazarette covers may appear to be cosmetic, but that is not the purpose. This is my second 22' C-Dory, both with the older and superior cover or lids. Over time the fiberglass lids become scratched. Whether on the trailer, at the dock, or on the water, objects will be parked on them temporarily and often leave scratches and occasional gouges. Often I would place a cloth or cardboard down on them to support a battery I was taking out or installing.

Also, the glare bothers me from the highly polished surface. So I decided to come up with a cover which could be abused without real concern. I settled on Okume (phonetic spelling) 3/16th plywood, stained with my "patented" walnut followed by red oak stain - which looks like teak.

If you attempt the project, remove both lids, and trace them upside down on the plywood. Do not just use one lid as a pattern for both because the cutout portions will probably not match. I did the shortcut process and ended up with an extra piece. (later made into a bird house)

I use several coats of spar varnish after staining both side. It of course dries bright, but I reduce the glare with some fine steel wool rubbedf on the top surface.

Now I put anything on the lids without worrying about scratches. If they occur the touch up is simple, and the fiberglass stays pristine.

Also for my taste, I like the look of real wood.

John
 
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