From: C-LionRay (Original Message) Sent: 1/21/2003 9:44 AM
O.K., here we go. A thread to discuss my new nemesis, the carburetor
From: C-LionRay Sent: 1/21/2003 9:46 AM
Does anybody have experience rebuilding carburetors on a Suzuki DT75?
I can't even spell carburetor without help from spell check and it will cost about $300 at the dealer. That's almost enough for a crab pot puller or a windlass! I'd rather pay for beer and a steak dinner for the guy I'm handing wrenches to and learning from.
Any volunteers?
AARRRGGHH! Gotta be on the water by March 1st!
From: Mike Sent: 1/21/2003 11:20 PM
Ray - the last time I worked on boat carbs, they were Quadrajets off of twin 327's in a Chris. I tore them both apart, threw everything into one basket and dunked them in the cleaner. Then the owner and I went down to the bar for the beer. A couple days later, I did get both of them back together with no spare parts, and they worked fine. Those little Suzuki carbs can't have near as many pieces, so just go for it. Try to keep them in separate baskets, though.
Ain't boats fun?
Mike
From: C-LionRay Sent: 1/26/2003 9:38 PM
This was originally posted in the Suzuki DT75 Motor issues discussion but I thought it might benefit the group here for future reference. Mike, Greg, I hope you don't mind.
Larry, your input is invaluable, thank you so much.
Ray,
I got the scans you sent. It looks like the carbs are not too hard to work on. You should obtain 3 carb kits first. The kits should have the gaskets, o-rings, needle & seat, and a new float.
Remove the top carb to start. Turn it over and remove the float bowl. Now look to see how the float is held on. There is probably a pivot pin which slides out. Before removing the float measure the float height as shown in the shop manual. Write down the measurement. Remove the pin and float and needle. Inspect the needle and seat.
Now you need to check the air adjustment needle. DO NOT JUST REMOVE IT!!! Mark the position of one end of the slot with a marker and carefully screw in the needle counting the turns until it seats. Write down the number of turns it takes to seat the needle. It may be 1 or 1 &1/4 or 1 & 1/2 or whatever. You want to be able to reset the needle to the original setting.
For the next part, WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!! Now remove the air needle. At this point, you can remove the main jet. Use a screwdriver that fits the slot in the jet snugly. Jets are brass and easy to damage. NEVER CLEAN OUT A JET WITH A METAL TOOL!! Now spray carb cleaner(using the small straw on the carb spray can) through the jet, through all openings and passage ways in the carb. The point of this is to verify that all jets and passages are clear and clean. If you find gunk anywhere, remove it carefully. If you have compressed air, you can blow through all openings and passages to clear them.
When the carb is clean, replace any o-rings or gaskets, install the jet, install a new float & needle, set the float height, reassemble the carb and float bowl. Install the air needle and set to the original setting.
Do the same with the other two carbs. Only work on one carb at a time!!
Now what have we accomplished? If you found gunk in a jet or poassage, or if the float level setting was way off in one or more carbs, or if a needle was way off of the factory settings, this may have fixed the problem. If every thing was clean and set properly, the carbs may not be the problem. After putting it all back together. pump up the squeeze bulb and start the motor. ( Don't forget to run it in water. DO NOT START DRY!!)
After a test run on land on the flusher or in a large bucket , launch the boat and see how the motor runs. Adjusting the air needles affects the idle and off idle. Adjust the needles a little at a time (1/8 of a turn at a time) and wait 10 -15 seconds for the motor to react. This is the part that need some experience. Mayby ask the dealer about the adjustment.
Remember that a two stroke need to be in the water(not on a flusher) to tune the carbs. The backpressure of the motor leg being in the water affects the carb tuning. You cannot tune carbs on a flusher.
If all this is too complicated, or you don't think you have the skills or tools, Take it to the dealer!!
I would get an estimate from the dealer before starting. You have to buy the carb kits either way, and the dealer would be responsible for the outcome.
I hope this helps, its hard to work on a motor over the computer!!
Larry
From: Mike Sent: 1/26/2003 9:47 PM
Ray -
Don't mind a bit. Thanks for thinking of it, and you're right - it does belong in both places. There will be a lot of info, I suspect, that can fit into more than one category. Some of it, like the post you copied, should be in both sections it fits. This place is going to be good, I tell you, and with the members thinking of doing things like this, it will get even better.
Larry -
Thank you for taking the time to share so much of your knowledge and experience. It is appreciated, or will be, by people you haven't even heard of yet.
Mike
O.K., here we go. A thread to discuss my new nemesis, the carburetor
From: C-LionRay Sent: 1/21/2003 9:46 AM
Does anybody have experience rebuilding carburetors on a Suzuki DT75?
I can't even spell carburetor without help from spell check and it will cost about $300 at the dealer. That's almost enough for a crab pot puller or a windlass! I'd rather pay for beer and a steak dinner for the guy I'm handing wrenches to and learning from.
Any volunteers?
AARRRGGHH! Gotta be on the water by March 1st!
From: Mike Sent: 1/21/2003 11:20 PM
Ray - the last time I worked on boat carbs, they were Quadrajets off of twin 327's in a Chris. I tore them both apart, threw everything into one basket and dunked them in the cleaner. Then the owner and I went down to the bar for the beer. A couple days later, I did get both of them back together with no spare parts, and they worked fine. Those little Suzuki carbs can't have near as many pieces, so just go for it. Try to keep them in separate baskets, though.
Ain't boats fun?
Mike
From: C-LionRay Sent: 1/26/2003 9:38 PM
This was originally posted in the Suzuki DT75 Motor issues discussion but I thought it might benefit the group here for future reference. Mike, Greg, I hope you don't mind.
Larry, your input is invaluable, thank you so much.
Ray,
I got the scans you sent. It looks like the carbs are not too hard to work on. You should obtain 3 carb kits first. The kits should have the gaskets, o-rings, needle & seat, and a new float.
Remove the top carb to start. Turn it over and remove the float bowl. Now look to see how the float is held on. There is probably a pivot pin which slides out. Before removing the float measure the float height as shown in the shop manual. Write down the measurement. Remove the pin and float and needle. Inspect the needle and seat.
Now you need to check the air adjustment needle. DO NOT JUST REMOVE IT!!! Mark the position of one end of the slot with a marker and carefully screw in the needle counting the turns until it seats. Write down the number of turns it takes to seat the needle. It may be 1 or 1 &1/4 or 1 & 1/2 or whatever. You want to be able to reset the needle to the original setting.
For the next part, WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!! Now remove the air needle. At this point, you can remove the main jet. Use a screwdriver that fits the slot in the jet snugly. Jets are brass and easy to damage. NEVER CLEAN OUT A JET WITH A METAL TOOL!! Now spray carb cleaner(using the small straw on the carb spray can) through the jet, through all openings and passage ways in the carb. The point of this is to verify that all jets and passages are clear and clean. If you find gunk anywhere, remove it carefully. If you have compressed air, you can blow through all openings and passages to clear them.
When the carb is clean, replace any o-rings or gaskets, install the jet, install a new float & needle, set the float height, reassemble the carb and float bowl. Install the air needle and set to the original setting.
Do the same with the other two carbs. Only work on one carb at a time!!
Now what have we accomplished? If you found gunk in a jet or poassage, or if the float level setting was way off in one or more carbs, or if a needle was way off of the factory settings, this may have fixed the problem. If every thing was clean and set properly, the carbs may not be the problem. After putting it all back together. pump up the squeeze bulb and start the motor. ( Don't forget to run it in water. DO NOT START DRY!!)
After a test run on land on the flusher or in a large bucket , launch the boat and see how the motor runs. Adjusting the air needles affects the idle and off idle. Adjust the needles a little at a time (1/8 of a turn at a time) and wait 10 -15 seconds for the motor to react. This is the part that need some experience. Mayby ask the dealer about the adjustment.
Remember that a two stroke need to be in the water(not on a flusher) to tune the carbs. The backpressure of the motor leg being in the water affects the carb tuning. You cannot tune carbs on a flusher.
If all this is too complicated, or you don't think you have the skills or tools, Take it to the dealer!!
I would get an estimate from the dealer before starting. You have to buy the carb kits either way, and the dealer would be responsible for the outcome.
I hope this helps, its hard to work on a motor over the computer!!
Larry
From: Mike Sent: 1/26/2003 9:47 PM
Ray -
Don't mind a bit. Thanks for thinking of it, and you're right - it does belong in both places. There will be a lot of info, I suspect, that can fit into more than one category. Some of it, like the post you copied, should be in both sections it fits. This place is going to be good, I tell you, and with the members thinking of doing things like this, it will get even better.
Larry -
Thank you for taking the time to share so much of your knowledge and experience. It is appreciated, or will be, by people you haven't even heard of yet.
Mike