From: Richard (Original Message) Sent: 4/6/2003 10:24 PM
I find that the head of the crossbolt on my anchor shackle tends to hang up on the bow roller bail when retrieving anchor unless I manually give the rode a twist to bring the bolt head to the "up" position where it will pass through the bail more easily. I've entertained the idea of using a "quick-link" instead of a shackle since it would present a cleaner profile and be less likely to hang up. My question to those of you who've been around is this: Is there a reason why I've not seen others do this? Is there something inherently unwise about using a quick-link in this situation that is escaping me at the moment? They seem to be available in strengths equal to the rode and they're intended for joining two lengths of chain so I don't see why I couldn't use it between the chain and anchor shank. By "quick-link", I'm referring to the type that uses an internally threaded barrel to make the closure. I'd probably use teflon tape or something similar to discourage the barrel from working lose in use. What say?
Richard on TK Grand
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 10:36 PM
Richard -
That is exactly what I use. I had to go with a couple sizes bigger than the chain to get it into the anchor shank, so it is probably the strongest part of the coupling. Attached to it is an eye-eye swivel, with a lap link between it and the chain. I squeezed the lap link together and put a touch of weld on it to keep it closed.
Those quick links can be secured by using a wrench to give the barrel nut a bit more turn after finger tight. I think the end of the barrel that stays on the threads is crimped so that it won't screw all the way onto the other side.
It works just fine. Go for it.
Mike
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 10:44 PM
As luck would have it, I even found a picture of the chain-to-anchor connection I use. It's not a real good picture, but it shows your quick link pretty good.
From: Helen_O© Sent: 9/11/2003 7:11 PM
I'll soon be using my windlass for the first time and have a question. Am I supposed to do anything to the end of my anchor rope. (tie a knot? mark it with a ribbon 15 ft from the end?) My concern is if I'm anchoring in 70 ft. of water and have 200 ft of anchor rope, I'll be letting out close to 200 ft of line. What do you do to insure that you don't pass out all the rope and lose $250 worth of anchor & rope to the bottom of the river?
Larry S
From: Mike Sent: 9/11/2003 8:12 PM
Larry -
I tied a big old chunk of aluminum on mine. Anything tied to the end that will not start through the hole is fine, but you gotta have something. Some folks put a cleat or eye bolt in the hold to tie the bitter end off, but the blob bigger than the hole works fine.
Another thing I did was tie a ribbon about fifteen feet from the bitter end so I know when it's getting close. I also tied a ribbon on the chain that comes up about a foot before the shank of the anchor gets to the roller when retrieving. That way I know to stop and jog it the rest of the way.
What kind of windlass did you get? I may have something for you.
Mike
From: Helen_O© Sent: 9/11/2003 8:30 PM
Mike
Thanks for the info. The factory installed a Simpson-Lawrence Sprint 400 Windlass. I think it's what they call a flush mount type. I wish I could tell you more, but I'm clueless. Have only seen one work before. (On Blue-C)
Larry S
From: Mike Sent: 9/11/2003 9:09 PM
Larry -
Cool. We'll talk about the possibility of a line counter one of these days if you want. It might be a little more difficult to get the switch and magnet installed on the vertical type windlass. But you know what they say - where there's a paper mill, there's a way! Actually, the paper mill is kind of letting me down lately. I only have one of the counter units left, but I do have a couple extra reed switches. Them line counters are skookum, so let me know if you want the last counter saved for you to try. (I guess I will have to encourage the electricians at work to do a little PM tour and replace a few of those counters on the machines.) If we can figure out how to mount the flag, you'll be way ahead of Da Nag on the cost of the thing. He had to shell out 4¢ to get the switch mounted on his horizontal windlass.
Mike
From: Helen_O© Sent: 9/11/2003 9:19 PM
Great, that'll give us something to haggle over up at Sequim.
Larry S
I find that the head of the crossbolt on my anchor shackle tends to hang up on the bow roller bail when retrieving anchor unless I manually give the rode a twist to bring the bolt head to the "up" position where it will pass through the bail more easily. I've entertained the idea of using a "quick-link" instead of a shackle since it would present a cleaner profile and be less likely to hang up. My question to those of you who've been around is this: Is there a reason why I've not seen others do this? Is there something inherently unwise about using a quick-link in this situation that is escaping me at the moment? They seem to be available in strengths equal to the rode and they're intended for joining two lengths of chain so I don't see why I couldn't use it between the chain and anchor shank. By "quick-link", I'm referring to the type that uses an internally threaded barrel to make the closure. I'd probably use teflon tape or something similar to discourage the barrel from working lose in use. What say?
Richard on TK Grand
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 10:36 PM
Richard -
That is exactly what I use. I had to go with a couple sizes bigger than the chain to get it into the anchor shank, so it is probably the strongest part of the coupling. Attached to it is an eye-eye swivel, with a lap link between it and the chain. I squeezed the lap link together and put a touch of weld on it to keep it closed.
Those quick links can be secured by using a wrench to give the barrel nut a bit more turn after finger tight. I think the end of the barrel that stays on the threads is crimped so that it won't screw all the way onto the other side.
It works just fine. Go for it.
Mike
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 10:44 PM
As luck would have it, I even found a picture of the chain-to-anchor connection I use. It's not a real good picture, but it shows your quick link pretty good.
From: Helen_O© Sent: 9/11/2003 7:11 PM
I'll soon be using my windlass for the first time and have a question. Am I supposed to do anything to the end of my anchor rope. (tie a knot? mark it with a ribbon 15 ft from the end?) My concern is if I'm anchoring in 70 ft. of water and have 200 ft of anchor rope, I'll be letting out close to 200 ft of line. What do you do to insure that you don't pass out all the rope and lose $250 worth of anchor & rope to the bottom of the river?
Larry S
From: Mike Sent: 9/11/2003 8:12 PM
Larry -
I tied a big old chunk of aluminum on mine. Anything tied to the end that will not start through the hole is fine, but you gotta have something. Some folks put a cleat or eye bolt in the hold to tie the bitter end off, but the blob bigger than the hole works fine.
Another thing I did was tie a ribbon about fifteen feet from the bitter end so I know when it's getting close. I also tied a ribbon on the chain that comes up about a foot before the shank of the anchor gets to the roller when retrieving. That way I know to stop and jog it the rest of the way.
What kind of windlass did you get? I may have something for you.
Mike
From: Helen_O© Sent: 9/11/2003 8:30 PM
Mike
Thanks for the info. The factory installed a Simpson-Lawrence Sprint 400 Windlass. I think it's what they call a flush mount type. I wish I could tell you more, but I'm clueless. Have only seen one work before. (On Blue-C)
Larry S
From: Mike Sent: 9/11/2003 9:09 PM
Larry -
Cool. We'll talk about the possibility of a line counter one of these days if you want. It might be a little more difficult to get the switch and magnet installed on the vertical type windlass. But you know what they say - where there's a paper mill, there's a way! Actually, the paper mill is kind of letting me down lately. I only have one of the counter units left, but I do have a couple extra reed switches. Them line counters are skookum, so let me know if you want the last counter saved for you to try. (I guess I will have to encourage the electricians at work to do a little PM tour and replace a few of those counters on the machines.) If we can figure out how to mount the flag, you'll be way ahead of Da Nag on the cost of the thing. He had to shell out 4¢ to get the switch mounted on his horizontal windlass.
Mike
From: Helen_O© Sent: 9/11/2003 9:19 PM
Great, that'll give us something to haggle over up at Sequim.
Larry S