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I should note - my interactions with SeaCast ahead of my repair last year were comically negative. I considered (but then ultimately refrained from) posting my correspondence with them here for the broader C-Dory community to mull over. Suffice to say they had very strong opinions about a)...

Hi Easton - no, I had a quiet winter for boat repairs; the transom cap remains as I 'temporarily' finished it last spring. That being said, the epoxy cap itself is perfectly functional - it should be robust enough to seal up the transom for the life of the hull. The black plastic transom top...

A slow drip of brown water around the outside edge of my front hatch foretold sealant failure and wet balsa core. Moderately easy repair by removing hatch, stripping sealant, removing wet balsa and resealing the hull edge with thickened epoxy. Reseated the hatch with new sealant, and this area's...

Oh - and Dr. Bob's estimate for DIY repair is about right. I'm in Whitehorse, which brings costs up compared to southern centres - my total cost was ~2.5k CAD (incorporating some new tools, and expensive purchase/shipping of CarbonBond compared to less remote locations).

I addressed a wet transom core on my 2004 22 Cruiser this spring. In case it's useful in seeing potential steps for Dr. Bob's first repair option (core removal and replacement with cast material), my repair log is here: http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=32753 Happy to answer questions if...

We planned to pour slowly in stages, to allow each slug of compound to settle and spread, and to avoid trapping any air bubbles under a thick layer of compound. However, the consistency of the compound as we poured it provided me with good confidence that there would not be issues with trapped...

A lot of work (much of it late nights that would have otherwise been occupied by sleep), but immediately rewarding in that it enabled our planned mid-June SE AK family trip to run as planned.

Everything reassembled and cleaned up, it was time for a test run. I'd performed some concurrent repairs on the Honda BF90A3 main motor (replacing a corroded tilt tube, and installing new oil seals on the upper end of the gearcase) which needed assessment as well. Everything worked as it...

My final remaining jobs were to build up a transom cap, paint the new inner cockpit skin, and reattach all the hardware I'd removed (i.e. main motor, kicker bracket and transducer cable fasteners, fuel tanks, bilge pump and fuel-water separator). I filled the remaining 3/4" transom void with...

Nearly all the work being in the prep, pouring the transom compound was relatively straightforward. There was just one hiccup - on opening the box I discovered that while the supplier reseller (not CarbonCore) had helpfully included MEKP catalyst, it was only enough to catalyze at a...

A couple of years ago, one of the bead chains holding my fuel cap to the boat came apart. The small screw tumbled down into the fuel tank, and I just dealt with having one unleashed fuel cap. I recently had occasion to remove, drain and clean my fuel tanks, and in doing so, finally retrieved...

Next, I redrilled the bolt holes for the main outboard and kicker bracket in the new inner transom skin. I made up some jigs to clamp the transom to uniform thickness from the outside (bearing against the 1" spacer pucks). Two 2x10 planks on the outer transom, one 2x10 inside below the...

Inner transom skin dealt with, it was time to prep for replacing the removed balsa core with CarbonBond. This job was 95% preparation. Pouring was going to be easy, but also non-replicable - very important to get everything right before actually doing it. My first step began concurrently with...

Removing the core made apparent how thin the inner fiberglass skin below the splashwell really was. Much of it appeared to be 1-2 thin layers of glass, with gelcoat/paint forming the majority of its thickness. Not a surprise that I'd made a few holes with the spade bit. Grinding away the...

Considerable onward progress over the past week or so. I removed all of the balsa core in the transom, all the way down to the hull. This was pretty tedious. I completed most removal with a 1" spade bit on extensions, busting up balsa into bits that could be removed with a shopvac. As I got...

Follow-up: Shortly after posting this thread, I swapped out the stock fuel tank vents with the Attwood stainless steel flush mount vents referenced in Sunbeam's vent replacement post. Fast forward to the present day (3 years on) and I had recent occasion to remove and fully drain both fuel...

Donald - before doing any digging, I'd think about Clay's advice: consider what you can legitimately defer until after this boating season is complete (keeping in mind your own appetite for risk tolerance). My transom core did need replacing, but I suspect I would have been fine for another...

Work is progressing. I'm removing balsa core via the open top of the transom, and while its tedious it's not impossible. The advice on a spade bit was good; that's been a helpful tool. A few DIY pry-bar/chisel tools have also been helpful. The sole setback; I managed in a couple of cases to...

I've followed up with a call to SeaCast, to examine this option more thoroughly also. They're somewhat incredulous that the entire transom is not cored. Perhaps I'm wrong; my understanding (before drilling any holes) is that the transom core in my boat is a 60" wide, 20" deep rectangle, which...

Over the past couple of evenings, I’ve lifted off the main outboard, removed the transom cap and started pulling out wet balsa. It’s not looking good. I’ve worked by way 6” down in some places, and except for a couple of areas I’m still encountering wet balsa. In some cases, it seems moisture...