Installing the seat boxes and cockpit coaming finishes the edges. You can also see that I added a port side cubby hole above the seat box. Two reasons. First, I need space. Second, it made for easy installation of the Espar D2 heater hose (just barely visible).

Another view of the repair area.

Both seat boxes back in and now attached with stainless screws and finish washers.

Reinstalled with stainless screws and finish washers to replace the silly steel and aluminum pop rivets that caused the balsa core damage.

Installing the seat boxes and cockpit coaming finishes the edges. You can also see that I added a port side cubby hole above the seat box. Two reasons. First, I need space. Second, it made for easy installation of the Espar D2 heater hose (just barely visible).

Here I put KiwiGrip just down the traffic area and no tedious masking. This little area, about 20 square feet, took a quart. I wish it was darker, but decided not to have it tinted and possibly mess with the chemistry. KiwiGrip colors are all very light, apparently for yachties and not for fish guts.

I also don't need or want it under the transom well. I did repaint that area. Home Depot had some Porch and Deck paint in the discount "mistake" area, and I had an employee squirt color in it until it was a close match. $12 for a gallon and I have 95% of a gallon left over.

After my balsa core repair, I needed to paint the deck. KiwiGrip has a good reputation and would hide any ripples in the new fiberglass. But it is expensive at about $50 per liter and I needed 2 liters, or so I thought. Then it occurred to me that I don't need or want nonskid under the seat boxes.

M

Installing the seat boxes and cockpit coaming finishes the edges. You can also see that I added a port side cubby hole above the seat box. Two reasons. First, I need space. Second, it made for easy installation of the Espar D2 heater hose (just barely visible).

Marco Flamingo
Dec 9, 2015

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