Drain hole after tube removed. Dry (balsa) core, thankfully, although there was only the bare minimum of sealant and no isolation of the core.

Bringing the fill up to the proper thickness. After this I overfilled it a bit, and then "buttered" the tube so that it would "squooge" into place with plenty of epoxy all around.

Filling the hole. First I used a dental pick and a Dremel tool to remove the core for a good 1/2" beyond the drain hole. Then I enlarged the hole in preparation for inserting a 1" ID (1-1/8" OD) fiberglass tube. Then final sanding and cleaning, and I put a good coat of neat epoxy all around the hole. After that (and will the tube prepped), I slowly built up the hole with thickened epoxy (colloidial silica). I had to do it in layers so it would not get to hot as it kicked (but all in the span of a few hours so it was still plenty green for a chemical bond).

Transom side of empty hole. What you are seeing is the balsa core of the transom, followed by the forward fiberglass skin of the transom, and then the (white) filler that fills the gap between the splashwell molding and the forward transom skin.

Drain hole after tube removed. Dry (balsa) core, thankfully, although there was only the bare minimum of sealant and no isolation of the core.

Brass splashwell drain tube removed. I used a hacksaw blade and cut three slits (through the tube lengthwise), then dented one edge in with a cold chisel and grabbed it with vise grips to pull it out (not hard since it was barely sealed).

S

Drain hole after tube removed. Dry (balsa) core, thankfully, although there was only the bare minimum of sealant and no isolation of the core.

Sunbeam
Jan 13, 2013

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