2400 rpm gives a SOG of 6.2 knots at .7 gallons per hour (supposedly 10 mpg, although I usually only get 8). At WOT I have seen it go as high as 3.6 gph. Yes, I'm only in 5.3 feet of water, but I'm heading out of the little bay right in front of my cabin. It's cool.

2400 rpm gives a SOG of 6.2 knots at .7 gallons per hour (supposedly 10 mpg, although I usually only get 8). At WOT I have seen it go as high as 3.6 gph. Yes, I'm only in 5.3 feet of water, but I'm heading out of the little bay right in front of my cabin. It's cool.

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Here is the interplay between my tach, my fuel management system, and my plotter. 700 rpm gives 2.4 knts at .0 gallons per hour. That is because my fuel management system doesn't give accurate rates at less than .1. It does keep an accurate account of overall usage at this rpm.

Here is the interplay between my tach, my fuel management system, and my plotter. 700 rpm gives 2.4 knts at .0 gallons per hour. That is because my fuel management system doesn't give accurate rates at less than .1. It does keep an accurate account of overall usage at this rpm.

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The fuel line goes down the starboard side and the fuel filter is now up off the deck under the splash well. You can just barely see the fuel management sending unit to the left and above the filter. I left a standard outboard line and bulb so that I can still use my Yamaha 12 gallon tanks. Total fuel would be 35 gallons for a range of +200 miles.

The fuel line goes down the starboard side and the fuel filter is now up off the deck under the splash well. You can just barely see the fuel management sending unit to the left and above the filter. I left a standard outboard line and bulb so that I can still use my Yamaha 12 gallon tanks. Total fuel would be 35 gallons for a range of +200 miles.

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To the left of the helm I'm putting in a regular fuel gauge connected to the tank sender. The fuel management system recommended still having a regular gauge. I have marked out the center of the hole for the gauge. Now I need to find my 2" hole saw again.

To the left of the helm I'm putting in a regular fuel gauge connected to the tank sender. The fuel management system recommended still having a regular gauge. I have marked out the center of the hole for the gauge. Now I need to find my 2" hole saw again.

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So the radio got moved to a shelf above the window, a position I prefer. I noticed when moving the radio that the compass, which was on the same plane as the radio, shifted more than 10 degrees.

So the radio got moved to a shelf above the window, a position I prefer. I noticed when moving the radio that the compass, which was on the same plane as the radio, shifted more than 10 degrees.

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Here is the fuel management system gauge installed. Directions said to keep it at least 20" from the radio. I don't know which interferes with which, but it meant moving the radio.

Here is the fuel management system gauge installed. Directions said to keep it at least 20" from the radio. I don't know which interferes with which, but it meant moving the radio.

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And then I found this on Ebay. No longer made, it is a fuel management system that measures fuel usage per hour, total fuel usage, and has an adjustable low fuel alarm based on fuel usage. It is supposed to be accurate within about 1 liter on my 90 liter tank.

And then I found this on Ebay. No longer made, it is a fuel management system that measures fuel usage per hour, total fuel usage, and has an adjustable low fuel alarm based on fuel usage. It is supposed to be accurate within about 1 liter on my 90 liter tank.

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When looking for a fuel gauge, I came across this metering device that records fuel usage in liters per hour and total liters. Seems like it will be much more accurate than a gauge with a little needle waiving between E and F.

When looking for a fuel gauge, I came across this metering device that records fuel usage in liters per hour and total liters. Seems like it will be much more accurate than a gauge with a little needle waiving between E and F.

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The tank vent goes under the rub rail. If above the rub rail, any leak (which never happens) is spread all along the rail.

The tank vent goes under the rub rail. If above the rub rail, any leak (which never happens) is spread all along the rail.

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I thought that it might fit by just removing one of the supports for the V berth. Nope, they both have to come out. That's okay as it turns out that they are also just screwed directly into the balsa core.

I thought that it might fit by just removing one of the supports for the V berth. Nope, they both have to come out. That's okay as it turns out that they are also just screwed directly into the balsa core.

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Here is the gas fill hole. It is now taped and ready for epoxy putty to cover the exposed balsa and allow the fastenings to pass though epoxy rather than balsa. Where's that darn deck key?? Oh yeah, I don't need one for this gas fill! The turning tab pops up from its flush position.

Here is the gas fill hole. It is now taped and ready for epoxy putty to cover the exposed balsa and allow the fastenings to pass though epoxy rather than balsa. Where's that darn deck key?? Oh yeah, I don't need one for this gas fill! The turning tab pops up from its flush position.

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Here is the tank installed and I'm back to the balsa repair project. The cutout in the V berth was for a porta-pottie (long gone and good riddance). It will be filled in with a removable filler piece to make the V berth larger.

Here is the tank installed and I'm back to the balsa repair project. The cutout in the V berth was for a porta-pottie (long gone and good riddance). It will be filled in with a removable filler piece to make the V berth larger.

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To get the right angle on the fill and vent, canted holes were drilled through the V berth deck. No great loss, as this area on the CD 16 is right by the electrical and steering system. Nobody sleeps there.

To get the right angle on the fill and vent, canted holes were drilled through the V berth deck. No great loss, as this area on the CD 16 is right by the electrical and steering system. Nobody sleeps there.

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Lining things up to make sure on chock placement and that the fill (to the right) will be accessible. The tank can't be tight against the underside of the V berth because of the fill and electric sender unit. I also need space between the tank and the berth for my proposed "ground tackle," which will get it's own album when I start that project.

Lining things up to make sure on chock placement and that the fill (to the right) will be accessible. The tank can't be tight against the underside of the V berth because of the fill and electric sender unit. I also need space between the tank and the berth for my proposed "ground tackle," which will get it's own album when I start that project.

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This is about where the tank will sit, pulled up into chocks hung on the underside of the V berth. The straps that will suspend the tank have stainless buckles and are adjustable, which is important as the tank actually changes size depending on temperature and fill. Upper corner at right is where the fill and vent tubes come through the berth platform headed to the new deck fitting.

This is about where the tank will sit, pulled up into chocks hung on the underside of the V berth. The straps that will suspend the tank have stainless buckles and are adjustable, which is important as the tank actually changes size depending on temperature and fill. Upper corner at right is where the fill and vent tubes come through the berth platform headed to the new deck fitting.

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I bought a 23 gal. tank from overstock.com for $140. It was made by Moeller and used on Lund boats. In 2011, boat manufacturers were required to install low permeable tanks when they ran out of their older stock. Low permeable tanks have a black nylon lining (as can be seen here). There are still a lot of older style permiable tanks being sold even though they are new old stock and unused. BoatUS did an experiment where they found that an old style 6 gallon plastic outboard tank lost almost a pint in 6 months. That's why gas goes bad.

I bought a 23 gal. tank from overstock.com for $140. It was made by Moeller and used on Lund boats. In 2011, boat manufacturers were required to install low permeable tanks when they ran out of their older stock. Low permeable tanks have a black nylon lining (as can be seen here). There are still a lot of older style permiable tanks being sold even though they are new old stock and unused. BoatUS did an experiment where they found that an old style 6 gallon plastic outboard tank lost almost a pint in 6 months. That's why gas goes bad.

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M

I bought a 23 gal. tank from overstock.com for $140. It was made by Moeller and used on Lund boats. In 2011, boat manufacturers were required to install low permeable tanks when they ran out of their older stock. Low permeable tanks have a black nylon lining (as can be seen here). There are still a lot of older style permiable tanks being sold even though they are new old stock and unused. BoatUS did an experiment where they found that an old style 6 gallon plastic outboard tank lost almost a pint in 6 months. That's why gas goes bad.

Permanent fuel tank install
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Permanent Fuel Tank
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Marco Flamingo
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