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13 of them looked compromised, again easy to spot from the missing or damaged rivet head on the outside of the railing
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I used stainless steel fasteners and sail life life caulk 10-24@1 pan head bolts and nylocks with 5/16-1-1/2 washers (You?ll need an extra person to hold the screw driver on the outside)
Once I identified the ones that were defective and removed the gob on the inside it was just a matter of pushing out the body of the rivets from the outside to expose each hole
Hard to believe this is what holds the rubrail
13 of them looked compromised, again easy to spot from the missing or damaged rivet head on the outside of the railing
Had I been home I would have figure out a cleaner way of removing the gob so the washer would cover up the unsightly mess a little better
In my mind C-Dory?s choice to use pop rivets was not the best but the idea to cover them up on the inside not only with a gob of caulk sealant but to then spray the interior finish coat wit the speckle etc. on top of the gobs seems downright silly. At least the rubrail fasteners don?t do double duty of holding the hull and the topside together like on a lot of other boats and thank god they don?t go through balsa core. In fact on the C-dories the hull and topsides are fiberglassed together and the rubrail has nothing to do with that joint?s structural integrity.
First step is to remove the rubber part from the closest end - in my case the bow
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13 of them looked compromised, again easy to spot from the missing or damaged rivet head on the outside of the railing

  • Media owner sebastien
  • Date added
13 of them looked compromised, again easy to spot from the missing or damaged rivet head on the outside of the railing
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On the go rubrail fix
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After over 100 locks, ungodly number of fuel docks and some fixed and floating docks at marinas of varying states of luxury and decay a few feet of the port side rub rail was no longer tight against the hull
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