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Both tachs stopped working
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bluedawg



Joined: 04 Sep 2018
Posts: 8
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Blue Dawg
Photos: Blue Dawg
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2018 11:10 am    Post subject: Both tachs stopped working Reply with quote

Hello, I just bought Blue Dawg, a 2007 22' cruiser with twin Honda 40's. I am having some electrical issues that I am working through and one of them that the previous owner had not fixed is neither tachometer is working. He stated that they both quit working so he replaced them and the new ones didn't work either. I assume there is a blown fuse somewhere or possibly a rectifier issue? Any help on what and where to check first would be greatly appreciated.
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digger



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 448
City/Region: Spokane
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: C-Sik
Photos: Snoopy-C
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2018 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

make sure on the throttle control box that all plugs are attached. Often there are three wires going from that to each tach. Usually there is a short wiring loom that has a connector that goes forward from each controller.
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bluedawg



Joined: 04 Sep 2018
Posts: 8
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Blue Dawg
Photos: Blue Dawg
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2018 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay, I will make sure to look there. Thanks!
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MOOSE



Joined: 07 Nov 2003
Posts: 589
City/Region: Rainy Lake - Int'l. Falls
State or Province: MN
C-Dory Year: 2001
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: MOOSE
Photos: MOOSE
PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And, as strange as it may sound, make sure your battery cables are tightly secured to the battery lugs. I had a tach problem too once and this ended up being the solution. I now use two hex nuts, one as a lock nut on top of the other, rather than wing nuts.
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BrentB



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
Posts: 4232
City/Region: Greenwood
State or Province: IN
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would look for a outboard rigging manual
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BrentB



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
Posts: 4232
City/Region: Greenwood
State or Province: IN
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

for wiring colors and harness connector position. might be a broken wire, loose or poor connection. Purchase electrical contact cleaner to clean
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tsturm



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 748
City/Region: Soldotna
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: JMR TOO
Photos: JMR-TOO
PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MOOSE wrote:
And, as strange as it may sound, make sure your battery cables are tightly secured to the battery lugs. I had a tach problem too once and this ended up being the solution. I now use two hex nuts, one as a lock nut on top of the other, rather than wing nuts.



Also make sure all wires are connected at the batt., check fuses under each engine cowl, & inline near the control box (shift -throttle).
Wink
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bluedawg



Joined: 04 Sep 2018
Posts: 8
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Blue Dawg
Photos: Blue Dawg
PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well last night I took off all battery cables and cleaned them well, I also had the battery tested and it checked out (brand new Interstate). Now comes the really screwy part, I have been getting low voltage alarms on my Garmin but when I put a tester on the battery it shows 12.2 volts so I started the starboard motor and ran the rpms ups a bit and put the meter back on the house battery and it only went up to about 12.8 volts. when I did the same thing with the port motor and put my meter on its battery it went to ~13.3 volts.

Wait it gets better, I hooked everything back up and then this morning went to look everything back over and checked the battery still 12.2 (I did have the house switch off all night) but the Garmin will not turn on, you can see that the buttons will barely light up but nothing turns on. I also noticed that when trying to turn on the Garmin that the tachs were lighting up as well. I am soooooo lost. I made sure that all cables were clean and snug and none look or feel in bad shape.
Sad
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BrentB



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
Posts: 4232
City/Region: Greenwood
State or Province: IN
Photos: BrentB
PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you might look at engine side battery cables. Disconnect at battery or switch for no voltage with your DVM, then remove, clean, reinstall and tighten
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BrentB



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
Posts: 4232
City/Region: Greenwood
State or Province: IN
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

something is amiss

Fully charged batteries should measure at 12.6 volts or above at rest. When the engine is running, this measurement should be 13.7 to 14.7 volts.

Loose or poor cables? easy to check. remove and clean

Battery needs load testing.

Alternator and regulator needs checking
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Avidmagnum12



Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Posts: 433
City/Region: Ocklawaha
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2011
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Otter
Photos: C-Otter
PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One other thing you mite consider is the size of the wire going from the battery to the buss by the helm. I had this problem on my 22 until I ran larger power and ground wires to the buss. Too many things for the size of the wire. We tend to add more toys to the boats over time.
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2011 CD 25 "C-Otter" 07/2015 to present
2011 CD 25 "My Girl" 06/2015 renamed C-Otter
2004 CD 22 Commuter "Out2C" 03/10 to 06/15
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bluedawg



Joined: 04 Sep 2018
Posts: 8
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Blue Dawg
Photos: Blue Dawg
PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2018 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay guys, first thank you for the ideas and trying to help. I gave everything another look over last night and the only wiring I found that was in less than perfect condition was the 50 AMP thermal circuit breaker. I had initially looked past this because the terminals were covered by tiny rubber caps. Once I removed those I could see that they were extremely corroded. When I tried to remove the nuts they both broke. I think NAPA has a replacement so I will pick it up today and install it and also freshen up the lengths of wire going to it. Again thanks for the help. I will report back with the results.
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8500
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2018 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the battery cables themselves with the multi-meter for resistance.

If water, particularly salt water, is allowed to get into the space inside the insulation with the copper conductors, corrosion can set in and limit or destroy their conductivity.

This is why marine cables are tinned with a tin coating to help protect the copper underneath from corrosion, but add enough salt, particularly back near the splash well/motor well, and all bets are off. Laughing

Good Luck!

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up

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AstoriaDave



Joined: 31 Oct 2005
Posts: 992
City/Region: Astoria
State or Province: OR
PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2018 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bluedawg wrote:
Okay guys, first thank you for the ideas and trying to help. I gave everything another look over last night and the only wiring I found that was in less than perfect condition was the 50 AMP thermal circuit breaker. I had initially looked past this because the terminals were covered by tiny rubber caps. Once I removed those I could see that they were extremely corroded. When I tried to remove the nuts they both broke. I think NAPA has a replacement so I will pick it up today and install it and also freshen up the lengths of wire going to it. Again thanks for the help. I will report back with the results.
bluedawg,

If the connectors on that 50 A breaker are that corroded, it is likely that you have bad connections at other locations also. And, it is very likely the wiring is shot in some stretches, from your description. Untinned wiring (aka bare copper under the insulation), over time, will corrode, forming a dark material. The wiring can look OK until you peel back an inch or so of insulation. This corrosion can run the entire length of a wiring run.

How old is the wiring? Did the previous owner mention whether he replaced major sections?

Those two tachs might be dead if they have poor connection(s) to ground. You should pull the switch/breaker housing and check the condition of the connections there, also.

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Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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bluedawg



Joined: 04 Sep 2018
Posts: 8
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Blue Dawg
Photos: Blue Dawg
PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It has been a long winter but I am diving back into this tomorrow. I have found several connections that are corroded at the crimp (and probably into the wire too) so I am going to start cutting all of that out. It looks like someone has been using cheap wire and connectors that are not tinned to make repairs and that is where most of the damage is. Luckily the starter wires and wiring going to the main switch panel in the v-berth look to be in great condition. The main problem is the wiring installed or repaired going to the pot puller, washdown pump and stuff like that. I bought a to of splicers and other connectors and plan to replace everything that is looking rough. The only other thing that has stuck out so far is my battery switches that have a bit of surface corrosion, at first I figured replace them just to be safe but they are pretty pricey. What do you guys think? Can I just polish these up a bit?
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