Replacement Lazarette Covers (Again)

[onthewater]

Hello All:

I received a PM from a C-Brat asking about our replacement Lazarette covers.

Jack was interested in the part number, and had questions about the installation. I replaced both covers in the Spring of 2012 and intended to post a note about the project along with pics then, but that didn't happen, so I'll belatedly do an update now.

As most are aware, the original covers were designed for vertical installation, and in that capacity they worked fine. However, when installed horizontally (especially in an area open to rain/spray) they leaked (sometimes badly). There was a small channel presumably designed to catch water, but it was quickly overwhelmed, and the laz would get wet. That's OK in a live well, but not-so-much where electrical and fuel components are concerned.


I ordered replacement covers from Defender, and they were very easy to deal with. Because it was a special order directly from the manufacturer, I had to call it in. They were drop shipped. Here is a copy of the part number in an email response to my inquiry at Defender customer service:

"Thank you for your interest in Defender. We can special order the SPA-40154 Dream white for you if you would like . The selling price would be $64.99 each. You would have to call to place the order and refer to item SPSPA-40154" .

I don't know if the price is still the same, but hopefully the part number is still correct. The Dream White color is a reasonably close match to the C-Dory hull color.

I approached this with a little concern, as I wanted to make sure they looked nice (since they're very visible) but most importantly wanted to fix the leak problem once, and for all.

The original starboard cover was removed first. I loosened the screws holding it down, and slid a thin putty knife under the lip, while working it around the perimeter.

It released with some "gentle persuasion". OK! The core was dry! I was on a roll.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Sal-Salis-Vita&id=IMG_0536&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

I used a scrap stick to peel away the gobs of bedding compound that was originally used when she was built.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Sal-Salis-Vita&id=IMG_0537&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

The opening was just a tad bigger than the new cover base, but by careful positioning I was able to line it up so it fit, and looked right. I marked where the new holes would have to be drilled, and made them "oversize". I then filled the oversize holes with thickened epoxy and let it set up.

Finally,, I re-drilled proper size holes for the new fasteners. The last step was to apply some 3M 4200 sealant around the underside periphery of the new hatch, and tighten the screws.

With one done, I figured this was nearly a wrap. Not so fast... The old port cover was removed in a similar fashion, but here there was some wet coring. I dug out all the wet material, and allowed it to dry.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Sal-Salis-Vita&id=IMG_0538&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Sal-Salis-Vita&id=IMG_0539&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Then I made several batches of thickened epoxy and carefully forced it into the void. It was allowed to set up, and then more was added until the area was completely filled.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?full=1&set_albumName=Sal-Salis-Vita&id=IMG_0540&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

The new hatches look sharp, and most importantly have been "bone dry" for the past year. It was definitely a worthwhile project, and not too difficult.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Sal-Salis-Vita&id=IMG_0542&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?full=1&set_albumName=Sal-Salis-Vita&id=IMG_0543&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

[haakebecks]

So, I've gone through a number of these threads by now and have a pretty good idea of what needs to be done.

One question for the pros though. After I have removed any wet core and let everything dry back, am I supposed to almost "paint" the dry core with liquid epoxy and then after that immediately fill with my epoxy/filler mix?

[thataway]

I would suggest that any owners who do this worthwhile project also route out the dry core, and put in epoxy to assure that there is no further water intrusion, even if the surface appeared dry. It is only a small amount of extra work.

There are a number of threads on the hatch replacement.

[Sunbeam]

[haakebecks]

I have been busy reading the epoxy thread which has been very helpful btw.

Thanks for the clarification!

So one other question... I assume I can just walk into pretty much any West Marine and pick this stuff up. Is that correct or do I need to order it all up online?

[Sunbeam]

[thataway]

Sunbeam, I realize that you don't use West Systems as much as some other products--but the ratio of hardener to resin is not always 5/1. Best to advise the neophite directly to the technical literature. For example 207 uses a 3:1. Weight and volume are not equal for mixtures of resin and hardener. West systems mixture is by volume only.

Some West System products are 1/1--such as the rapid set and G Flex.

The mini pump set does allow both 5:1 and 3:1.

Yes, you most likely can buy all that you need from a West Marine store, unless it is a very small one--even they can get the product a n day or so.

You can mix the epoxy, brush on the first coat, and then thicken it for the filler. Although it depends on the conditions, and hardener, generally you have 20 to 30 minutes of working time from the time you mix the hardener. You want to add thickening agents after the hardener has been added.

[haakebecks]

Thanks for all of the input guys. I went ahead and ordered up the hatches today. Next up is the epoxy. I'll let you know how the project ends up going. I won't be taking it on until we have the trailer delivered and the boat moved down to Oregon, so it will be a few weeks yet.

Currently just getting all of the stuff I need to tackle these projects from the get-go.

As I was going through some of the threads, I noticed that there were some proponents of butyl tape vs. 4200. Should I use 4200 to bed the hatch and then butyl tape on the screws/through bolts?

Also, once I have gone to all of this work, should I through bolt the hatch or screw back into the epoxy filled holes? Is there a preferred method?

[Sunbeam]

Thataway,
Thanks for clarifying the resin ratio subject. I was figuring that the OP would use the standard 105/205 for this particular job (if using the WEST mixed product at all), but it's always best to clarify, and I should have done. So.... while the "standard" WEST resin/hardener combo is mixed 5:1 by volume, they do have some other products that are different (some of the less-usual hardeners that go with the 105, plus some of the speciality resins such as G/flex, etc.). Also, WEST 610 comes pre-thickened and pre-metered in a caulking-type tube. Always good to be sure, as epoxy likes to be mixed very precisely (or failures can ensue). Another note is that if you mix by weight, the ratios are slightly different (you can look them up).

[ferret30]

I would not use butyl tape for the hatches. I have used it under metal parts (anchor roller, cleats) where I countersunk the screw holes. Metal parts will be strong enough to push the butyl into the countersink depression, and excess will ooze out the sides of the part you are mounting.

The hatch flanges aren't that strong, and I'd be concerned that if you used butyl, when you'd tightened them down it would either crack the flange around the screw, or you'd wind up with the flange being warped since it isn't strong enough to force the butyl out.

Also, cosmetically, clear 4000/4200 will look better between the gelcoat and plastic than gray tape.

[Sunbeam]

[thataway]

Although some folks use butyl tape for sealing--generally it is not recommended where there will be any possiblity of water intrusion. Use marine materials. 4000 is about the same characteristics as the 4200, but is non yellowing. I have had it in areas exposed to UV light, and no yellowing over about an 18 month period of time.

[Sunbeam]

[ferret30]

These fantastic HOWTOs that I found via this site:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

recommend butyl when fastening hardware to our boats. The author also shows in the rebedding article, a dinghy where he has used butyl for below water hardware and it remains dry. I'm not sure I would go that far, but it makes me more confident in the projects I've done with it.

[Sunbeam]

Ooops, sorry, not sure how to delete.