| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
Wandering Sagebrush
Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 2783
City/Region: Northeast Oregon
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Constant Craving
Photos: Constant Craving
|
 Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:19 am Post subject: Dirty Secret about LEDs |
 |
|
I started having trouble with a led trailer light after leaving lake Powell. It was intermittent, then failed. At first I suspected the wiring harness on the trailer, but when I pulled the light off to get at the wiring, I noticed a three prong connector that goes into the light itself. It had completely pulled out. Works fine once plugged in.
This was on one of the new series lights that EZ Loader is selling. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Sea Wolf
Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:47 am Post subject: Re: Dirty Secret about LEDs |
|
|
| Wandering Sagebrush wrote: | I started having trouble with a led trailer light after leaving lake Powell. It was intermittent, then failed. At first I suspected the wiring harness on the trailer, but when I pulled the light off to get at the wiring, I noticed a three prong connector that goes into the light itself. It had completely pulled out. Works fine once plugged in.
This was on one of the new series lights that EZ Loader is selling. |
I've never seen one of these.
Sounds like a nice feature for ease of lamp replacement, but I wonder if this plug connection would be a source of corrosion and failure, particularly if exposed to salt water, which would depend on the overall lamp enclosure design. This is the same, in that respect, as a typical bulb socket, more or less, etc. Your comments?
Thanks!
Joe.  
_________________
Sea Wolf, C-Brat #31
Lake Shasta, California
  
"Most of my money I spent on boats and women. The rest I squandered'. " -Annonymous |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Wandering Sagebrush
Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 2783
City/Region: Northeast Oregon
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Constant Craving
Photos: Constant Craving
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:58 am Post subject: LED |
|
|
Joe, the sockets and pins on the connector were entirely coated in a dielectric grease. Should be fairly corrosion free....
On the road from Utah....
_________________
"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." - Abraham Lincoln |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
J & C
Joined: 22 Aug 2009
Posts: 25
City/Region: Bainbridge Island
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1994
C-Dory Model: 16 Angler
Vessel Name: TBD - previously "Plain D"
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 11:25 am Post subject: |
|
|
The ones I used recently are completely sealed units without any connection at the light unit. The weak link is the butt connector for connecting the wires from the light units to the wiring harness which get submerged on my trailer when launching/retrieving. I sealed mine with heat shrink and self sealing tape.
Chris |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dreamer
Joined: 01 Jan 2006
Posts: 1766
City/Region: Really Sunny SaddleBrooke
State or Province: AZ
Photos: Dreamer
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Chris,
For all my connections on a trailer, I use heat shrink butt connectors from Fisheries Supply. They're made by Ancor and work great, completely waterproof!
_________________
Roger
Once a C-Brat, always a C-Brat
Dreamer- Sold 25 Feb. 2013 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
J & C
Joined: 22 Aug 2009
Posts: 25
City/Region: Bainbridge Island
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1994
C-Dory Model: 16 Angler
Vessel Name: TBD - previously "Plain D"
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 2:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Dreamer wrote: | Chris,
For all my connections on a trailer, I use heat shrink butt connectors from Fisheries Supply. They're made by Ancor and work great, completely waterproof!
|
Roger - I've used those in the past ('75 fiberglass Boler camper). They work great - but are expensive. The clear heat shrink in bulk is cheap as is the self sealing tape. For some reason I always end up redoing my wiring projects  so it quickly adds up.
Chris |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Capn Jack
Joined: 01 Oct 2007
Posts: 525
City/Region: La Conner
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1988
C-Dory Model: 16 Angler
Vessel Name: Pocket Yacht
Photos: Pocket Yacht
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 11:58 pm Post subject: Water proof splices |
|
|
Wrap the splice with Teflon Tape, slide the heat shrink over it and then use a heatgun until the teflon melts and starts to ooze out of the ends of the shrink. FAA aproved and cheap to do.  |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Jack in Alaska
Joined: 17 Aug 2004
Posts: 1192
City/Region: Anchorage/Ninilchik
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 26 Pro Angler
Vessel Name: HIGH TIDE II
Photos: HIGH TIDE II
|
| Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 2:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
I also use the heat shrink connectors but first fill them with silicone dielectric grease. Then crimp them and lastly heat them until the silicone squeezes out.
Very similar to the other Jack |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Capn Jack
Joined: 01 Oct 2007
Posts: 525
City/Region: La Conner
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1988
C-Dory Model: 16 Angler
Vessel Name: Pocket Yacht
Photos: Pocket Yacht
|
| Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:41 am Post subject: Splices |
|
|
I haven't seen them in a long time, but back when I worked on aircraft, we had "non-insulated" splices...Those were the ones we used heat shrink on (less bulky).  Jack (Also) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
Search
Private Messages
Profile
Log in
Register
Help
