Trolling a Tom Cat at 1 mph

Wefings · Posted: Fri May 25, 2007 1:00 pm Post subject:

A word of warning . Do NOT buy Lenco Trollin Tabs !!!! EVERY set we have ever dealt with failed early and often . FYI
Marc

Sea Wolf · Posted: Fri May 25, 2007 1:12 pm Post subject:

Doryman · Posted: Fri May 25, 2007 2:11 pm Post subject:

Doryman · Posted: Fri May 25, 2007 11:10 pm Post subject:

Sea Wolf · Posted: Sat May 26, 2007 4:20 am Post subject:

thataway · Posted: Sat May 26, 2007 9:09 pm Post subject:

I agree with Joe on the repitching--if you go way down in pitch, you can troll at a slow speed, but the boat may not be able to reach a speed where it will plane and you risk over reving (unless a rev limiter is present) the outboard.)

As for steering, I just use a piece of PVC pipe which slips over the handle for steering. I used this same 3.5 Tohatsu motor to push a 28 foot express cruiser over our sand bar for about 4 years--if it was really windy, it was a bit of a problem with control--but even the main engine was a potential problem with a high freeboard foreward.

I agree that there are better trim tabs than Lenco--but my express cruiser had them and we had no problems--but the boat was lift kept and run in fresh water the last few minutes of each run.

I think that the Torqueedo is an interesting engine--I use a 43 Lb thrust trolling motor regularly on our 12 foot Aluminum skiff--but I have two Golf cart batteries and charge them with a 110 v chager regularly. I don't think I would buy one for cruising applications currently, but at some point I think they will come into their own and do offer advanced technology.

Doryman · Posted: Sun May 27, 2007 1:43 pm Post subject:

thataway · Posted: Sun May 27, 2007 4:31 pm Post subject:

The Tom Cat will also have more "water resistance" than the CD 22, because of the bridge deck draggin in the water. if the hulls were competely clear, I suspect that the weight would not make a lot of difference. (I have found pushing big boats, what water line, and hull shape means more than weight. For example pushing the 60,000 lb boat with about a 45 foot water line with 4.5 hp was about equivilant speed with a 40,000 lb boat with 40 foot LWL.

Don't forget that you will need 24 volts for the 80 lb thrust trolling motors.
There are ways of charging the batteries with 12 volts and a 110 V Charger, but not as convient as charging 12 volt batteries. (I have run both 24 volt windlass and 24 volt thrusters on 12 volt system boats, and had to deal with this problem).

Doryman · Posted: Sun May 27, 2007 7:34 pm Post subject:

Sea Wolf · Posted: Sun May 27, 2007 8:46 pm Post subject:

thataway · Posted: Sun May 27, 2007 9:26 pm Post subject:

Yes, I would recommend separate batteries for the 24 volt trolling motors. Even if you put in the 40 lb thrus trolling motors, I probably would put in separate batteries. The trolling motors can use quite a bit of power at higher thrust levels, where I think you will be. I have a 28 lb thrust motor which I might have a chance to try on my tom cat and see what it does--I pulled some debris with the 43 lb thrust motor after the hurricane. But after a few experiences which took a long time, I started using the 3.5 hp Nissan for any major "logging" operations.

Charging the 24 volt system can be done several ways. I charged each 12 volt battery by taking them out of series and putting them in parallel with a simple switch. when charging, back in series when running the windlass or thruster. There is a relitatively simple device for about $90 which will do this for you automatically available currently:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|51495|606044&id=672772

Doryman · Posted: Sun May 27, 2007 10:58 pm Post subject:

This is getting way too complicated, not to mention the challenges of finding space for the batteries, and setting up the charging system.

I think I am first going to try the various methods suggested for slowing down the boat (drift socks, buckets, etc.)

Thanks, everyone.
Warren

Byrdman · Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 6:53 am Post subject:

Lori Ann: You may consider tossing the sock/buckets over the front of the boat using the center forward cleat, and letting the sock troll under/between the sponsons ...maybe? That would keep the sock out of the fishing lines, but, for sure you would want a good tie up front to keep it forward of the motors.. You have the sock. You have the rope....but, bad news if the sock gets free and into the single prop that is running. Looking at all of this... a real small "portable" kicker might be the rig with a piece of PVC pipe for speed adjustments and not have to get out of your chair in the cockpit.

Byrdman

Doryman · Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 11:15 am Post subject:

Well, since I am going to buy a Tohatsu 3.5hp for the dinghy anyway, I think it behooves me to see how I can make it work with what I have. Thataway Bob attached his to his swim step bracket, so what I am thinking about now is investigating whether I could do the same and tie the motor in with the big motors using an EZ Steer linkage. I had one on my Hewescraft (130 & 9.9 Hondas) and it worked well.

Thanks for the center cleat idea. I'll have to see if the tunnel collapses the sock or not.

Warren

Sea Wolf · Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 11:46 am Post subject:

Warren-

The small Tohatsu seems like a great idea, considering the complexity of some of the alternatives. The KISS Principle wins again!

I've never seen an arrangement with a small motor between two large ones linked with an E-Z Steer system, but one could be devised with stainless cables linking two E-Z Steer motor brackets on the large engines with one on the the back of the Tohatsu. The one on the small motor would have to be extended out so that the radius of it's swing was similar to that of the big motors.

Do you have a second steering station in the cockpit?

You won't have throttle, shift (none on motor, probably), or shut off control over the motor from the helm anyway, so maybe Bob's $2.00 piece of PVC pipe is starting took better and better!

Joe.