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dgray



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 3
City/Region: grass valley
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 16 Cruiser
PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 8:15 pm    Post subject: rubrail Reply with quote

My rubrail is coming losse and hull is starting to seprate from top cap. Looking for the fix ? HELP!!!!! dgray
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 21505
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the hull to deck joint is separating, you need some immediate assistance. I am not sure about this particular boat. But generally the C Dories are a semi shoe box hull to deck joint. The rub rail covers rivets on the outside. The way that most of the C Dories are made, is that the hull to deck joint is pop riveted thru the rub rail, then the inside is glassed over with at least a layer of cloth and resin. Some boats look like they may have been glassed then the railing put in place later, then the rivets smoothed on the inside and some filler (epoxy) on the inside.

See if you have loose pop rivets. The rubber inset in the railing is easily removed--and replaced if necessary. I would pull it, and check to see the condition of the rivets. If the rivets are pulling out (they may work thru the glass with time or they may have been right at the edge of the hull and pull up). Probably the best thing to do is to drill new rivet holes, put in new rivets and then put glass over the inside (I would grind down the old glass at the hull to deck joint, then reglass with epoxy and a layer of 12 oz biaxial cloth. If there is no substance to the hull at the upper part, then do the glass first, then pop rivet the railing. put small patches of glass and epoxy, then fair with filler over the pup rivets on the inside of the hull, and then paint over on the inside. If the rub rail material is still resiliant (my 1992 was still a year ago), push it back in place with broad blade screw drivers tapped in place, as you pull it aft. Either a screw or cap at the aft end will hold it in place. Silicone sealant may be necessary around the pop rivets--I would use the Boat Life, Life caulk there.

_________________
Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
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dgray



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 3
City/Region: grass valley
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 16 Cruiser
PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 10:06 pm    Post subject: Bob,Thanks for Your imput. I'll try this. Doug Reply with quote

thataway wrote:
If the hull to deck joint is separating, you need some immediate assistance. I am not sure about this particular boat. But generally the C Dories are a semi shoe box hull to deck joint. The rub rail covers rivets on the outside. The way that most of the C Dories are made, is that the hull to deck joint is pop riveted thru the rub rail, then the inside is glassed over with at least a layer of cloth and resin. Some boats look like they may have been glassed then the railing put in place later, then the rivets smoothed on the inside and some filler (epoxy) on the inside.

See if you have loose pop rivets. The rubber inset in the railing is easily removed--and replaced if necessary. I would pull it, and check to see the condition of the rivets. If the rivets are pulling out (they may work thru the glass with time or they may have been right at the edge of the hull and pull up). Probably the best thing to do is to drill new rivet holes, put in new rivets and then put glass over the inside (I would grind down the old glass at the hull to deck joint, then reglass with epoxy and a layer of 12 oz biaxial cloth. If there is no substance to the hull at the upper part, then do the glass first, then pop rivet the railing. put small patches of glass and epoxy, then fair with filler over the pup rivets on the inside of the hull, and then paint over on the inside. If the rub rail material is still resiliant (my 1992 was still a year ago), push it back in place with broad blade screw drivers tapped in place, as you pull it aft. Either a screw or cap at the aft end will hold it in place. Silicone sealant may be necessary around the pop rivets--I would use the Boat Life, Life caulk there.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 21505
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doug,
Put some photos in your album and that will give us a lot more information and probably will help us make suggestions to give a good repair. It will take some time, but as most repairs make the boat a better boat and probably last forever!
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mikeporterinmd



Joined: 15 Sep 2006
Posts: 645

State or Province: MD
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Shelly IV
Photos: Shelly-IV
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My rivets are pulling out on one side. I was thinking of through-bolting
the rail back on. No hull-deck issues. Thoughts? I am not particularly
worried. Hopefully the rail will stay largely attached so I can deal with this
in the winter.

Mike
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captd



Joined: 06 Nov 2003
Posts: 514
City/Region: Chain of Lakes
State or Province: MT
C-Dory Year: 1994
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Kon Tiki
Photos: Hunky Dory
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

djrey,
Sounds to me like you made a classic mistake. You allowed something to rub against the rub rail. Anytime I did that with the Hunky Dory, the rail started poping out. The rub rail is designed for looks, to cover the seam. and the pop rivits as they slowly pop out. Like a clean white shirt over a dirty T-shirt.
captd

_________________
100 ton Master
1986 Sport Craft 27 ft , 240 hrs Yanmar sold
2000 22 ft C-Dory (Hunky Dory) sold 2006
2007 25 R Ranger (Mis Dee) sold 2008
2009 25 R Ranger (Lucky Fin) sold
1994 22 ft C-Dory ( Kon Tiki )
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 21505
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pop rivets should really have washers on the inside of them. Then there is much more surface to bear on. As it is, the pop rivets tend to work and expand the hole and then pull out. Some boats screw into wooden backing--I feel that the pop rivets are a good way to go, as long as they are properly treaded afterward.
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the pop rivets aluminum?

If so, and they easily pull out, they could be replaced with Monel or stainless rivets with backing washers.

Joe.

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Lake Shasta, California

"Most of my money I spent on boats and women. The rest I squandered'. " -Annonymous
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