Fresh Water Rinse

dotnmarty · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:34 am Post subject: Fresh Water Rinse

My boat has been at the marina at Everett for a month. Located at the confluence of the Snohomish River and Puget Sound, the water is brackish at best. How often should I pull her out and flush the engine? Thanks

Sarge · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:00 am Post subject:

Getting advice from me is like asking a blind man for driving directions, but I'm not shy so here goes...

It is my understanding that it isn't so much where you store your boat* but where you use your boat that matters.

When you use your boat in saltwater all the time, the salt may start to accumulate in the water cooling lines internally in the motor (just like it does on the outside of your boat after a splash). This salt along with other miscellaneous crud that you've motored through may affect your motors ability to cool itself in the future if the pathways get clogged. This of course is in addition to the effect salt has on the acceleration of rust within the engine.

Flushing an engine should be possible while on the water. I realize I have a different brand motor than you, but as new as yours is it should have a flush port that simply hooks up to a hose. My boat is moored in Edmonds and I've gotten into the habit of flushing mine after every use.

*My engine manual (Mercury) also states that if you store your boat in saltwater all the time you need to spray the motor itself (under the cowl) with anti-corrosion spray regularly.

Hope I didn't embarrass myself.

dotnmarty · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:05 am Post subject:

Thanks Sarge. I'm the one who should be embarrassed for not knowing this common sense answer. Now if I can just figure out how to get the earmuffs on without falling in...

drjohn71a · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:55 am Post subject:

Marty,

I don't think you have to pull the boat to flush the engine. There have been some past discussions on this issue, and my vague memory is that there is a benefit of flushing (on engines with a flush hose attachment), even if you leave it in the water.

There are also some bucket or bag setups I think.

The newer Hondas have you hook up a hose and flush fresh water thru without running the engine, so ear muffs would not be needed if that's the case on your outboard.

Hopefully, one of the dealers will chime in on this!

John

dotnmarty · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 11:16 am Post subject:

John- The manual says that there is a flush port, but an optional garden hose adapter is required. It also says that the motor needs to run during flushing and, additionally, it says the prop shoud be removed for safety!. (I wonder how many people do that?) Lastly, the flush port is located just above the permatrim, so I might as well use the muffs. Unfortunately I dont have a swim step so It's just out of reach when the boat is tied up. Anyway, the whole manual is free on line
http://www.honda-marine.com/mar_pdf/31ZW3601.pdf
and I actually read it-a first for me! Thanks.

drjohn71a · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 12:08 pm Post subject:

the manual for the Honda 150s warns that running the engine during fresh water flushing with a hose will damage the engine....

guess the 90s are different

John

Doryman · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 7:57 pm Post subject:

My Yamahas flush out with a hose at the dock (not while running).

Warren

ken 120 · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 11:54 am Post subject: rinsing

I have an 01 Honda 90 - the owners manual that came with the engine shows on the back of the engine just below the engine cover a round black plastic plug that can be removed (pops right out with a screw driver) - once uncoverd there is a connector for a rinse device called a "water hose joint" that can be purchased at any Honda Dealer for $50.00. The engine is not on and when rinsing water comes out of the "pee" hole.

Page 104 of my owner manuel shows the water hose joint and the location of the water hose joint. I curise and salt water so i reinse after each use.

Ken

dotnmarty · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 12:48 pm Post subject:

Here's a quote from the online Honda 40hp manual, page 77:
"Flushing with the Honda Garden Hose Adapter (optional equipment).
It is necessary to run the engine during the flush procedure. "

Mason C. Bailey · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 5:23 pm Post subject:

I have been mooring at the Everett Marina since I got my boat, about 5 years. You positively still need to flush and should do so after each trip. I have the twin Honda 40's and you may have seen my recent posting about gas in the oil. As explained by Les, this is caused by the thermostats becoming stuck open. The engine runs very cool and doesn't burn all the gas, which ends up in the oil. I just changed the thermostats and will put the boat back in the water this week (I hope). I back my 22 foot into our slip, then tie it up so the engines are very close to the main dock. Raise the engines some, add the ear phones, turn on the water, lower the engines back into the water and start them back up and flush. I have done this almost everytime I return, the exceptions are when we are late for whatever reason. I was still amazed at the amount of salt built up in and around the thermostats.

Mason on McNaughty III

ccflyer · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 6:46 pm Post subject:

I just flushed my Honda 90 thirty minutes ago using the attachment mentioned by ken 120 in this thread.

FWIW: My first year I'd flush after every use - I keep the boat at a municipal slip. Last fall it was pointed out to me by the Honda dealer that, while this is SOP, folks on a mooring who don't have access to a fresh water hose and can't flush all the time and the Honda engineers know this.

BTW: I believe the port for flushing doesn't impact the impeller which is why you still need the ear muffs when running the Honda out of the water.

Phil

dotnmarty · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 8:38 pm Post subject:

Thanks Mason, I'll go up there tomorrow and back it in, Put on the muffs and flush er good. MartyP

Sea Angel · Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 12:20 pm Post subject:

Marty;
IMO, I feel that if you have the means to flush after each use, go for it. It is time well spent. It is almost like pay me now , or pay me later view. I try to do this every time my CD25 is used.

My HONDA 90s are flushed with 'Sat-Away' through a garden hose adaptor "Y" so I can do both engines at once. It is amazing to me to see how much cleaning action occures.

I bought the 'Y' adaptor at Home Depot and each branch has its own cuttoff. Now it takes me 1/2 the time to flush both 90s, and a side benefit of controlling the individual h2o flows.

tom&shan · Joined: 21 Sep 2006 Posts: 316 Photos: Dakota

Marty mentions using his earmuffs to flush, others mention hooking up with a hose to the connector on the engine - why do one or the other?
If I have a connector on the engine that a hose end goes into - does that do as good of a job flushing as using the earmuffs? I've heard from some folks that you should always use the muffs, but it seems to me if the manufacturor puts the connection on the engine it must be designed to do the proper flushing.
Thoughts ?

Tom

thataway · Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 5:43 pm Post subject:

If you use the ear muffs, you will be flushing thru the water pump impeller. If you use the in the block type of fittings, The vane type water pump may not be flushed in some engines. Some engines have a water pump bypass when block flushing, so that the water goes thru the pump.
If you run an engine, with no water lubricating the water pump, then the water pump vanes will burn up and fail in the engine where the manual cautions against running the engine when block flushing.