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Safe Windlass Operation
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Levity



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 204
City/Region: Shippensburg
State or Province: PA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Levity
Photos: Levity
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An articulating bow roller in conjunction with a 14# Delta and a Sprint 600 has been a welcome addition to my C-Dory. The pivoting bow roller is longer than the factory roller and keeps the Delta a comfortable distance away from the precious gel goat.
Spectrum GEl Coat Repair Kits are a perfect match for C-Dory hulls and everything needed to cure the gelcoat is included. The special grease needed to create a perfect repair is not included. (elbow)
Installing the Sprint 600 was a challenge for my skill level but was accomplished with advice from Nick (Valkyrie) George( Wanderer) and Bob
(thataway); thank you gentlemen.
Mike 'Levity'
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sarge wrote:
Joe,

What I did notice from your last photo is that the roller on your anchor pivot is different than mine. Your's look like a flat wheel and mine is concave (forms a "v") which is very narrow and my anchor literally gets wedged in the "v" of the wheel.

-Sarge/Carl


Sarge-

My forward roller is concave and similar to almost all common bow rollers.

The aft one is indeed flat, but has a V-grove about 1/2" deep in the center of it to help center the shaft and rode. Lewmar offers replacement rollers for their products, or someone with a metal lathe could easily turn one out of nylon stock, omitting or modifying the V-grove.

Another idea would be to add a nylon or metal sleeve on top of your existing aft roller, covering the grove. Would have to be fairly thin, or the pivot feature would be affected in that the roller wouldn't straighten out fully when retracted.

Joe.

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Sea Wolf, C-Brat #31
Lake Shasta, California

"Most of my money I spent on boats and women. The rest I squandered'. " -Annonymous
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Wefings
Dealer


Joined: 29 Nov 2005
Posts: 2086
City/Region: Panhandle
State or Province: FL
Photos: Cruise Ship #4
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to clarify, Bob and Nancy have an articulating anchor roller [ a Lewmar , built in sunny Canada by Kingston Anchor] http://www.kingstonanchors.com/ and a Claw type anchor . We have found that setup to work well . The factory puts a fixed roller on with the new windlass option and I am trying to train them to include the articulating roller . We change them at this point for a windlass installation.
The gelcoat Bob has is actual factory gel which comes with each boat . I think its a nice touch , not all builders do this . It just needs some regular old standard issue catalyst to go off . It will match the boat for the first year or two or longer if the boat is stored indoors or well covered.
Indeed a small ding is a badge of character and are inevitable. You oughta see the dings in my 25!!! Have fun with that boat , and get some pictures of a busy day at Crab Island !
Marc

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Since 1909
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Wefings
Dealer


Joined: 29 Nov 2005
Posts: 2086
City/Region: Panhandle
State or Province: FL
Photos: Cruise Ship #4
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also great trick with the ribbon ! Thanks Mike !
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james



Joined: 13 Apr 2006
Posts: 126
City/Region: CRYSTAL RIVER
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: COOL CHANGE
Photos: COOL CHANGE
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe that FX-16 must hold mighty fine.

I have the FX-7 and it does a very good job, no complaints.

I also have a FX-7 broke down for a back up.

If I ever have to change anchors I will probably go with the FX-16 just for the added security.

I love fortress anchors,and the people who test them love them too!


James

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"Beware of the man with no weaknesses, he is not to be trusted." Lin Yutang, The Importance of Living.
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mikeporterinmd



Joined: 15 Sep 2006
Posts: 645

State or Province: MD
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Shelly IV
Photos: Shelly-IV
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FX-16? I just removed an FX-11 that we never really used. It didn't
fit on the bow roller too well - the shank was too long.

Mike
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TyBoo



Joined: 23 Oct 2003
Posts: 5328
City/Region: Warrenton
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 1996
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruise Ship
Vessel Name: TyBoo
Photos: TyBoo
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the S/L branded (probably Lewmar now) pivoting roller on both my CDs. For the CD22, I seem to recall drilling an extra pair of holes for the pivot bolt so it didn't extend as far as the last holes but farther than the first holes. On the CD25 I have it extended to the second original holes.

If you use a pivoting roller, glue on a small piece of rubber between the rear of the two pieces so it doesn't slam hard together when the anchor comes onto the roller. I used some 3/4" thick closed cell sponge with sticky back.

I have 15' of chain at the anchor and I usually bring it up in two or three foot bursts when retrieving. I also have the flag tied onto the chain a couple feet up from the anchor so I know when it is getting close to home. While you're tying the ribbon on, it's a good idea to put a piece 20' or so from the bitter end (always wanted to use that term) so you'll know when to stop paying out the line in cases where you need to use most all of it.

And remember - the law of the sea with windlass usage is that the skipper never leaves the helm seat. You have to keep messing with your setup until you are able to perform the entire anchoring operation without any more effort than pushing the switch. Cost doesn't matter - get what you have to get to get it right.

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TyBoo Mike
Sold: 1996 25' Cruise Ship
Sold: 1987 22' Cruiser
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TyBoo wrote:

And remember - the law of the sea with windlass usage is that the skipper never leaves the helm seat. You have to keep messing with your setup until you are able to perform the entire anchoring operation without any more effort than pushing the switch. Cost doesn't matter - get what you have to get to get it right.


I installed a Lewmar S/L Horizon Express (a higher geared version of the Horizon 1500) on my Sea Ray a couple of months ago and got it right the first time!

I did, however, use the KISS principle and simply hard-wired the up/down buttons at the helm.

I have a wireless remote control for winches and windlasses that I'll add to the system later this year.

I bought it so I could operate the windlass either from the helm (flying bridge) or down on the front of the boat to clear jams, seaweed, or wood debris, etc.

Actually, should be able to raise and lower the anchor from anywhere within 250 feet of the anchor or helm.

Might be useful when anchoring out and combined with a line from shore, kinda like a solid Anchor Buddy system with the real solid rode anchoring the boat, instead of the elastic Anchor Buddy line.

Anchors aweigh!

Joe. Wink
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