Safe Windlass Operation

Ashley Lynn · Posted: Sun May 06, 2007 9:20 am Post subject: Safe Windlass Operation

What is the proper (Safe) way to retrieve the anchor with the Lewmar 700 windlass? I retreived the anchor (I thought I did it slowly) which inflicted a small but noticable chip in the gelcoat on the bow. How can I prevent the anchor from swinging into the bow when I cannot see the anchor from the helm?
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2nd question: What type activator do I mix with the factory cans of gelcoat to repair the chip I created in the gelcoat?
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My first blemish on my brand new cdory.......the agony...
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Thanks a million for the advice.

Papillon · Posted: Sun May 06, 2007 9:30 am Post subject:

Trick Number One for Anchor Retrieval is to put a piece of ribbon in your chain link that will come across your bow roller at the point that the anchor will be coming out of the water. This allows you to stop the retrieve and let your anchor straighten out...provided you have a swivel on the end of your chain / anchor attachment point. Then you can ease it up on to the roller.

You might also check todays post to the "Great Ideas under $20.00.....for how to prevent Gel-coat Chips.

Someone here that has bought a new boat and got some of the Gel-Coat patch kit will know if it included a tube of hardener...or if you will have to provide your own.

Now you have the first blemish....go ahead and enjoy your boat and drill a few holes in her just for the fun of it.

Mike

Sealife · Posted: Sun May 06, 2007 12:02 pm Post subject:

Funny you should ask.......just patched some nicks using the Spectrum Gelcoat patch kit. It's a small jar of gelcoat, about the consistency of vaseline, and a small tube of hardner. You add 10-12 drops of hardner to half the amount of gelcoat in the jar, mix it well, cover your nicks, then wait an hour or so for it to harden and then sand it with 400 grit wet sandpaper, then 600 grit until smooth. Then wax/buff to finish. Using a hot hair dryer speeds up the drying. Very simple and effective. You can order the ket directly from Spectrum, who makes the gelcoat colors for C-Dory.

Dora~Jean · Posted: Sun May 06, 2007 12:34 pm Post subject:

Mike, I wonder, is it better, worse or about the same as MarineTex--if you've used it?

Dreamer · Posted: Sun May 06, 2007 4:49 pm Post subject:

Gel Coat hardener is Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide. Good Luck with the repair.

Sealife · Posted: Sun May 06, 2007 10:46 pm Post subject:

Steve,

Can't compare to MarineTek. This is real gelcoat in the exact color to match your C-Dory, from the company that suppplies C-Dory.

flapbreaker · Posted: Sun May 06, 2007 11:51 pm Post subject:

Ah yes, the old anchor into the bow routine. I did this a couple of times, even after I thought I had it figured out. My problems is the bow roller. If I don't do just very quick and short flips of the switch the roller will pop the anchor up and off the roller. Then the anchor proceeds to hit the hull. Anyway, I painted a small section of chain just prior to where the anchor will meet the roller. That way I can do my quick switching. I have an anchor swivel but 90 percent of the time the anchor comes up pointed the wrong way. Not sure how to avoid this. Just seems that the anchor wants to hang that way.

Dora~Jean · Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 1:46 am Post subject:

I tied part of a Target Stores plastic shopping bag (part with the red 'target') to the chain about 4 ft from the end, about when the anchor breaks the water. Gives me fair warning where the anchor is and easily passes through the gypsy on the windlass. A brightly colored ribbon will do also as suggested earlier.

Sea Wolf · Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 2:29 am Post subject:

If you're having banging problems, or problems with your banging, (with your anchor, that is) it just might be partly the fault of your anchor roller.

Most anchor types require a pivoting anchor roller like the one below. It has a long enough reach to add some extra clearance between the anchor chain, and the boat.

Sometimes some anchors can be used with a windlass and the original OEM anchor roller.

Bruce type anchors because of their low center of gravity and short shank, often allow this.

It's nice to be able to use the original roller, but if the clearance is so low that you can't avoid that troublesome banging around by coming up slowly, you might look into whether an extending pivoting roller would give you some more room.

Joe.

Ashley Lynn · Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 9:08 am Post subject:

Thank you all for the great advice. I'm getting straight on it. ===============================================
Do all "new" boat owners feel this obsessive-compulsive? The boat is at the forefront of most my thoughts. Wow!
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thataway · Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 9:03 pm Post subject:

A new boat is going to get dings--or it is not being used. It is only a boat!
We bring the anchor up slowly--and let it untwist. So far in my life I have avoided articulated anchor rollers. The Delta filts fine on the factory unit (which are windline) for the Tom Cat--the C D 22 and 25 both have Danforth type--I am going to use a Delta on the CD 25 also--

Marine Tex is an epoxy--Gel coat is a polyester--different products.

Dora~Jean · Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 12:49 am Post subject:

Yes, the factory anchor roller works fine with my Delta 22, however, added an aft roller to support the shaft to self-launch easier.

Sarge · Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 12:26 pm Post subject:

Sea Wolf · Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 5:32 pm Post subject:

Sarge · Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 6:53 pm Post subject:

Joe,

I'm not sure which model Fortress that I have. The dealer installed it and since the boat is having its bottom painted, I can't easily go to it and find out.

What I did notice from your last photo is that the roller on your anchor pivot is different than mine. Your's look like a flat wheel and mine is concave (forms a "v") which is very narrow and my anchor literally gets wedged in the "v" of the wheel.

-Sarge/Carl