Drawers Under Helm Seat

[cbadmin]

From: Mike (Original Message) Sent: 12/8/2002 5:20 PM
Mark -

I was looking at the pictures (three, starting here), of the storage drawers you put under the helm seat in 2nd Byte. Since we took our factory icebox out, and decided against replacing it with an electric fridge, the drawers look like the way to go. It appears that the drawers are each sitting on a full width wood shelf in the recess, so there is no need for runners or slides. That is a good way to keep stuff contained in the drawer when closed, and also makes hanging the things easy. Do the latches you used hold the drawers tightly closed so they won't bounce and rattle around? I reckon you want to give a little more clearance around the drawer box so expansion/contraction due to moisture won't cause problems.

Very nice looking job of building and installing the things. Good job on the color match, too. What did you use for the construction material?

The shelf in your cupboard beneath the galley is cool, too. Kay had some goofy plastic drawer boxes under there before, but now that she thinks I'm making her drawers under the seat, she took them out. She gets almost everything on the starboard side of the cabin to store her boaterhome supplies.

Good idea and good job. Thanks for the photos.

Mike

From: 2nd Byte Sent: 12/8/2002 9:40 PM
Mike, the drawers were a fun project. They are not setting and sliding on a full width shelf. I made drawer stiles out of 1" by 3" solid oak (actual dimensions true out closer to 3/4" by 2 5/8"), joining at the corners by drilling, dowels, and glue. Drawer fronts are solid oak and the sides and back are 1/2" cabinet grade plywood. The bottoms are 1/4" cg plywood and slide into a mortise cut into the front back and sides which allows the bottom to float in the mortise. No glue involved in the bottom piece. The bottom cut of the mortise is a good 3/8 of an inch up from the bottom edge of the drawer itself. This allowed clearance for a pair of drawer stops, one on each side of the top of each drawer stile so the drawers are simply closed against the drawer stops and the drawer fronts flush out with the cabinet face. The cupboard catches serve as both drawer pulls and a positive lock when the drawer is closed. You will note on the pics which I posted that the bottom drawer didn't have a cupboard catch on it. I originally only planned on 2 drawers so I only bought 2 catch's so I added the 3rd one after the pics. As it turned out I had ample room for the 3 drawers. If you look closely at the 2nd picture, just behind the bottom right corner of the seat you will see the end of a 2"x2" piece of oak that runs the full width of the cabinet. The vertical front of the cabinet and the seat platform are married securely to the oak in lieu of the metal 90 degree bracing supports that the factory uses to secure the seat platform to the front vertical piece of the cabinet.

In short the drawers when closed are rock solid. Definately allow a little room for expansion and don't glue the bottom of the drawer in the mortise if you do it this way, as the bottom should float in the mortise. I've got a couple of pics of the stile/framing around here some place, which will show you exactly how that looks. I'll dig 'em up.

Thanks Mike

Mark

From: Fun Patrol Sent: 12/9/2002 8:39 AM
Nice job Mark!

I have not done that mod yet, but plan to. The smell of oak going through the saw is sure better than fiberglass goop! Right now, we store the fruit and vegies in the factory box and cold stuff in one of the other ice chests.

On my sailboat, the cabinet latches were the type where you stick your finger through the hole and pull the latch. No hardware on the outside, but.....if the boat lurched, or you moved too much, your finger paid the price! Hated those things.

later...Roy

From: 2nd Byte Sent: 12/9/2002 11:01 AM
Thanks Roy, I know what you mean about "holes".
The two factory catch' for the doors on the cabinet are the hole type with the inside catch and I don't particularly care for them.

These cupboard catch's are available at West Marine, Boaters World, etc. are perfect for this application. I use a separate ice chest for the stuff I need to keep cold and that works good for me.

Now I need to get started on next project in my never ending "storage enhancement program".

Have a good one!

Mark

From: Mike Sent: 12/9/2002 2:44 PM
Mark -

Let me tell you how hard I've been working today. I had one of the guys from the carpenter shop come into this guys office and look at the pictures of your drawer project. He said no problem - all he needs are the measurements. There is always some CG plywood laying around here (scrap, you know). I may have to spring for the faces if I want oak, but should be able to find the rest of the material. Expect the price of paper towels to go up.

I also have a neighbor just up the street who has a small wood shop and is quite a craftsman. I have done a whole bunch of tractor/backhoe work for him the last several years, so I might borrow his expertise, instead.

Kay will be so happy.

Mike

From: 2nd Byte Sent: 12/10/2002 12:00 AM
Sounds good Mike, you'll like the addition. Watching prices go up is old hat to me. I'll suppose I'll have to ration paper towels around here. The real problem is, when you get thru with your project the prices won't reflect that by dropping. You dad burned entreprenuers have really got the system figured out.

Good luck on the project and keep us posted on it.

Mark

From: Mike Sent: 12/29/2002 4:09 PM
Mark -

Just in case you were wondering, I am still planning on the drawers under the helm seat. I got the dimensions figured out today, and the carpenter at work will make the boxes for me. The drawers will be 1/2" CG plywood, with solid oak face plates. I think I will make the front boards wider than the drawers so they do not go into the recess. The helm seat board overhangs a good inch and a half, so the extra board out there will not take up any useable room.

Thanks for the idea and the help. I will post some pics one of these days if they turn out good.

Mike

From: 2nd Byte Sent: 12/31/2002 2:22 PM
Hi Mike, I assumed that the drawers were in progress. You and Kay are really going to like them, Making the drawer fronts so they lap the frame work also eliminates the drawer stops of a flush fit. You've got the same basic material list I had.

I'll be looking forward to the pics.

Mark

From: Mike Sent: 12/31/2002 7:37 PM
I got the drawer boxes today. Also got some teflon strips that are 1/8" thick, 90° angle, with one 3/4" side and one 1" side. Here's the new plan: On the oak drawer supports, I will attach the teflon angles so the drawers are sitting on them, and held between them. That way, the only thing touching the wood boxes will be the teflon. Cool. If the wood swells sightly, the plastic will give enough to still let them slide. It oughta work. The guy did a really neat job on the boxes. All I have to do is seal them and attach the fronts.

While I was in the scrap business at work today, I got some pieces of white plastic signboard that is 1/4" thick, and some polycarbanate sheet (clear) at 1/4" and 3/8" thick. I should be able to make the covering for the wall above the galley counter, extending to the helm, for nothing.

Tomorrow, my wife and granddaughter are going to Portland, and I'm staying home to work in the boat. All I gotta do is check on the mutt once in a while. Don't bother calling me, because I ain't answering the phone. What a way to start the year off!

Have a good New Years holiday.

Mike

From: 2nd Byte Sent: 1/1/2003 4:17 PM
Mike, teflon glides, sounds like a 'slick" operation to me. Your "scrap heap" appears to be a veritable storehouse of
treasures! Couple that with an inherent ability to put it to use, a wild and crazy imagination, etc:, makes for lots of interesting innovations.

Way to go"

Mark

From: Mike Sent: 1/19/2003 9:49 PM
I got the finished drawers stuck in the holes today. They turned out pretty good. I have to work long hours for the next few days, but I will get some pictures on here soon.

Mike

From: Mike Sent: 1/20/2003 9:39 PM
OK - I went down to the boat in the rain, wearing my slippers and housecoat, and took a couple pictures of the finished drawers. The stain matches the rest of the fake wood pretty good. The drawer faces are a little shinier because they were seald with marine spar varnish after staining. A little cleaning and polishing on the decraguard plywood, and everything will look like it belongs. The pictures aren't as great as the project turned out, but I took one with the drawers open a ways, and one with them closed.

I have not decided on the latches yet. Tim steered me to some real nifty ones in a SeaSport at the boat show, and he is getting a catalog from the manufacturer of the hardware. I am thinking I will go simple, and use the same gizmos I used to hold my cupboard doors closed. I put small black knobs on the drawers to match the ones I used for a couple cupboards (the helm seat hangs over far enough to keep from bumping the knobs).

It just keeps getting better........

Mike

From: C-LionRay Sent: 1/23/2003 1:36 AM
Mike, I think I have some stainless clips. If you like them you are welcome to them, I just have to find them first. Nice job! I'm sure that space will get filled up quicker than you made it. Will a can uf bud fit and still allow you to close the drawer? How about Coors Light? We may have to check that out....

From: 2nd Byte Sent: 1/25/2003 9:23 PM
Drawers look great Mike, Kay is gonna' luv 'em!