Anchor Deck Pipe or Windless?

[Sea Wolf]

Al/Moose and Mark/2ndByte:

I've added a photo on page 2 of the Anchoring Photos showing a spring stainless steel finger backing up the plastic finger on the Quoick Aires 500 windlass which adds extra pressure and allows the rope/chain splice to pass through much more freely.

The stainless spring steel finger is actually a rudder lock for sailboats made by Schaafer Marine, part #82-01. It's West Marine part #252320 and is priced at $5.99. It comes with two holes already drilled in it, so all you have to do is drill two receiving holes in the side of the windlass, which avoids any more boat holes. (I know, we really didn't want to drill holes in or modify the windlass, but something has to be done!)

Best of all, it works great with my new polyester 3-strand rope rode and tapered splice, plus it looks good. If all you need is a little extra pressure on the plastic finger to make things work, this is the trick!

I used a 3/16" pop rivet in the forward hole, and a stainless sheet metal screw in the aft, so that the screw can be removed to re-bend the finger to apply more pressure if necessary, but you can do it without removing the screw.

I hope this is the last episode in this ongoing saga, but who knows?

Hope this helps!!! Joe.

[Mighty Bite]

Thanks for the update and the picture, Joe. Looks good and sounds like a great solution. Really appreciate the info and the "e" alert.

I'm putting together a little order for WM right now and I'll add this to it.

I assume you are getting Sea Wolf's bottom wet these days. Enjoy! I'm still a ways off, A couple months yet before we the ice & snow are gone. but I can feel the turning of the seasons.

[MOOSE]

Thanks for taking the risk, Joe. I'm glad it worked out. What you have done was initially what I thought would be the most straightforward fix (see previous discussions). I can't see any downside except for a couple of additional holes.
Al

[MOOSE]

Hi youse guys,
I was just down at the boat working on yet another prototype for improving the operation of the Aires Quick windlass. I don't know if it'll be the complete solution to passing the splice, but I'm sure it will help and it requires no additional holes. I'm going to get a piece of 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 6" long piece of SS and bore a 5/16" hole in one end. I'll remove the forward, starboard bolt on the bow cleat and replace it with a longer hex head and spacer. The other end will be cut just short enough to clear the base of the gypsy. The windlass housing actually has a notch on the aft portion. I plan to file this notch square as a stop for the other end of the SS piece. I found a chrome plated SS socket in the dumpster at work of all places and I drilled it out to use as a roller. I'll bolt it to the SS far enough back to clear the 1/2" rode and chain, but close enough to put additional pressure on the splice as it comes through. I hope you followed all of this. I think it should help the situation.
Al

[TyBoo]

You bet, Al, I follow you just fine. All you paper mill environmental engineers always keep a close eye on the dumpsters to see if some poor old overworked millwright accidently tossed an aerosol can in there. We would put the cans in the hazmat barrels for you if you didn't make us resnap all three latches on the lid each time.

Your plan sounds real good for getting the splice through the hole. I like the gizmo that Joe came up with, too. Both of you should be trouble free, now.

[MOOSE]

The heck with the aerosol cans, Mike. I was, in fact, diving for scrap metal!!!
Al

[rogerbum]

This AJXL looks like a spammer - 4 short, pointless posts and his/her website is a discount perfume place...

[Sea Wolf]

And he has a 1989 CD-25 !!!

To my knowledge, the first CD-25's (a.k.a. "Cruise Ships") were made in the mid- '90's.

Joe.